WIP: Bandai 1/5000 Star Destroyer

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Doesn't Elmer's Glue yellow over time? I used Testor's canopy glue, which dried crystal clear. I'm thinking of hitting the inside with some flat clear to see if that helps diffuse it any more at all.

SB
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Fett_Ish

Sr Member
Doesn't Elmer's Glue yellow over time? I used Testor's canopy glue, which dried crystal clear. I'm thinking of hitting the inside with some flat clear to see if that helps diffuse it any more at all.

SB
Someone did mention that when I suggested Elmers. As the windows should be yellow anyway and the holes are so small, I don't think it would be noticeable.
 

Escape068

Well-Known Member
Those "hot spots" are what had me worried about not running fibers. I had seen quite a few videos that pan along it, and those hotspots really detract from the effect making it look literally like a hollow model with some LEDs inside

Elmer's glue might be the ticket rescuing me from running all those fibers

You can also try Micro Crystal Clear or Canopy glue to achieve the same effect. This stops the twinkling, diffuses and brings the light to the front of the window. Not sure how coloring it with red will look but if you want diffused light it works great. I do this at the end of the build when all painting and clear coats are done. I fill the windows from the front with either a small needle or one of the smallest glue tips attached to the glue bottle. Then you can wipe away any excess with a damp cloth or Q-tip. I found the best way is just to put enough to cover the window opening and not to overfill it because it will take a long time to dry / clear up and may be dimmer than the other windows if they are not filled the same way.

I think for the coloring you can use food coloring which you can mix with the glue. Since the coloring is very thin it may color it enough and still allow light to shine through where paint may not. Not sure....I have not tried this. If you want a few red color windows in the SD then run FO for just those. That would not be very time consuming compared to the whole ship. 1 Red LED with 10 - 20 FO strands
 

Dmitriy311

New Member
While working on cutting masks for airbrushing hull plating - decided to try Omnius' idea of putting glue that dries clear into the holes from the rear of the superstructure, bridge tower and trench pieces and filling them with paint marker red to create lighting effects without the use of fiber.

Did some trial and error by using some craft glue that I have been using to secure the fiber on the Zvezda. Dries crystal clear and worked well in terms of filling the windows and accepting translucent red pigment to create 'red windows' when backlit. The glue dried super clear and on windows without red pigment - you get hot spots of the LED twinkling through as your eye moves across the model.

So then I was looking for a glue that might dry off-white and act as a semi-diffuser of sorts and cut down on the hot spots and also still accept red pigment to shine through some of the holes. Did a few trial and errors with several glues and finally settled on: "ELMER'S WHITE GLUE". Yup. Plain old Elmer's white school glue. Overfill the holes and turn the piece over so the glue can seep down into the holes from behind and the glue dries into a cloudy clear off-white that when shining an LED through - gives great light BUT eliminates hots spots altogether. However, I think I will have to go with an enamel red paint to fill the holes rather than a permanent red paint marker to get the red to shine through sufficiently.

Perhaps some pics later.
I'm sorry. if am not mistaken - there is in mind school glue for arts and crafts from paper?
here in Russia it's called PVA - about this consistency, am I right?
1569435085882.png
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

nkg

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
What's known as "white glue" in North America is generally known as "PVA" (polyvinyl acetate) outside it.
 

skahtul

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
PRE-SHADING

Because the details are so fine and the scale is small, I am worried about too much softening of them with a coat of primer followed by a base coat, followed by panel highlights and wash enhancements. So I have decided to make my primer, my base coat and apply only a thin coat at that. I'll be adding a few drops of machine grey to the white Stynylrez to create a more off-white ILM filming model appearance than a deeper grey on-film appearance, and a few drops of Future/Pledge floor care to achieve a matte finish direct from the airbrush.

So that plan necessitated that I pre-shade the kit, rather than paint and then go in with a wash to bring out the fine details in the hopes that the subtlety will be enough to sell the details without overpowering and create the illusion that the studio lighting achieved without washes on the ILM filming model.

So because I was pre-shading on bare plastic with a water-based wash - I decided to use black shoe polish with some added water to create the wash because I knew that the shoe polish also had dye properties that would discolor the plastic slightly without too much beading that you couldn't get with a simple acrylic wash. And WOW! That brought out the details that are frankly STUNNING. Again - DEAD-BALLS ACCURATE to the ILM filming model at scale:

View attachment 1059664 View attachment 1059662 View attachment 1059661 View attachment 1059658 View attachment 1059657 View attachment 1059656 View attachment 1059663 View attachment 1059665 View attachment 1059660 View attachment 1059659
I just received this kit and I have been struggling with how to finish it, and I have not even started it. I really like what you are doing her, thanks!!!
 

INVAR

Sr Member
Build progress.

After the panel line and detail wash, mixed a combo of Stynlrez primer white, mixed with some acrylic grey with some reducer and sprayed the entire kit on the sprue and also the hull. Dried to near the base color I was wanting to come close to the 8 foot ILM filming model. The panel lines were still very visible and added that additional grey tone I was hoping for. I will likely add mechanical pencil panel lines atop the hull which will add more grey to the hull appearance without needing to paint the hull grey.

Then I placed frisket mat atop the hull model to begin drawing the additional hull plates I wanted in a darker grey. Carefully carved out the areas I was going to airbrush with the slightly darker grey.

Frisket mask.jpg


After airbrushing the hull plating.

Painted hull plates.jpg
Painted HullPlates 2.jpg


They dried just a slight hue darker than I originally envisioned, but overall was pleased with the result.

Then after seeing the method Ominus employed to diffuse his windows and add color - I ended up using Elmer's white school glue after the clear hobby glue did not diffuse the hot spots from LEDs and I needed something that would dry a bit milkier to diffuse the light. I then applied some red enamel into each window I wanted red. The end result was not bad.

windows.jpg

Window test.jpg


Assembled the trench walls and got the hulls together per the instructions - and that is where I noticed that dreaded curve upwards. I even sheared off the bow peg and will glue the hull down for final assembly as that added even more curve to the top hull. But this is truly a disappointment in terms of seeing the model head on and the kit looking like it is warped. I have no idea how to ameliorate this problem and am not exactly sure what is contributing to it, except that possibly the segmented trench walls C-11, C-19 and C-12 , C-20 are somehow responsible with adding stress to the bottom and top hull pieces and bowing the hull upwards from the front bow section.

Hull Curve.jpg


So this is the very first time I have ever been disappointed with something happening with a Bandai model kit. Again, I am not entirely sure what is causing the warped perspective, but I will say that the first bow peg makes the curve even worse - so I am suspecting it has to do with stress tolerances on the hulling conjunction with some slight warping of the hull before I even put it together.

Overall the details in this kit are astounding and truly amazing at this scale. I will say my earlier enthusiasm has been tempered with the hull curve but still - it is the finest and likely the most accurately detailed Star Destroyer kit ever released retail.

Hull Notch.jpg

Bow 3.jpg
Bow detail.jpg
 
Last edited:

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Darn. That's a bummer about the hull warping. I'm gonna have to alleviate that somehow on mine. Looking great overall, though!

SB
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Analyzer

Sr Member
Painting looks great so far!

I have no idea how to ameliorate this problem and am not exactly sure what is contributing to it, except that possibly the segmented trench walls C-11, C-19 and C-12 , C-20 are somehow responsible with adding stress to the bottom and top hull pieces and bowing the hull upwards from the front bow section.

I just recently got the standard kit and looking it over, I could have been mistaken, but quickly glancing at it, it appeared that one of the trench sections side walls had a very slight curve. I haven't really had a chance to go over it with a fine tooth comb though so I don't know if it was just a trick on my eyes or not

At any rate, it is disappointing since it makes the finished product looked warped and it seems a lot of people, if not all are running into that issue
 

INVAR

Sr Member
Well, I got the kit put together:

Build1.jpg Build2.jpg Build3.jpg Build4.jpg

But I am not happy. Major frustrations have occurred that I have not had to deal with in a Bandai kit before.

The battery pack and LEDs - seems like they dumped this in from another model kit. The wires are too long and getting them wrapped, notched and configured to fit inside the hull was irritatingly tedious and silly. Then, once the diffusers were snapped into place - neither the engine block or the upper hull will snap snug into place. The hull stresses cause it to bow up and out in several locations instead of fitting secure - as if the diffusers are prohibiting a good fit. I took the kit apart and reassembled it 9 times. I fiddled with the wires inside with tweezers trying figure out what the problem is, tucking in extra wire and making sure none are getting cinched between joins. No avail. I am afraid gluing the top hull onto the bottom is going to make the curve worse because of the stress I see on the plastic trying to force the snap fit.

Not only this - but the light leaks are horrible. Especially along the hull. I cannot get in there to put a line of Tulip black like I did along the bottom hull trenches to seal the light. I did what I could to seal up the conning tower neck edges, but the way the kit is designed, I cannot get in there to seal it from behind. Same with the light leak across the top of the bridge where the face plate is snapped onto the top and sides. If I had to do it over, I think you have to assemble the bridge and neck first, then putty and seal the edges and the top from the outside and push it into the crevice and lightly sand it smooth before painting it to light seal both the top bridge and the sides of the neck front. I do not see any other way you could seal it - because of the way it is engineered and assembled.

But by far, for now - the light leak across the upper trench where the top hull is supposed to sit snug to the bottom is the worst because I cannot get the top hull to secure tightly to the bottom without bowing out from stress. I think I will have to glue and clamp the hulls together - but in dry fitting that with my fingers, it warps the side hulls and causes more hull curvature. So - not sure what I am going to do next to finish this kit. I really wanted to just build it out of the box with minimal fuss so I could return to the Zvezda - and now that is not the case. I am going to have to fuss with this quite a bit to deal with all the issues I now have with it.
 

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Interesting to hear about the struggles this kit has. Can you post any photos of the light leaks that you're talking about? I just got the upper bridge section put together, and now I'm worried that I didn't do enough to seal in the tiny gaps.

SB
 

Dmitriy311

New Member
Well, I got the kit put together:

View attachment 1065109 View attachment 1065110 View attachment 1065111 View attachment 1065112

But I am not happy. Major frustrations have occurred that I have not had to deal with in a Bandai kit before.

The battery pack and LEDs - seems like they dumped this in from another model kit. The wires are too long and getting them wrapped, notched and configured to fit inside the hull was irritatingly tedious and silly. Then, once the diffusers were snapped into place - neither the engine block or the upper hull will snap snug into place. The hull stresses cause it to bow up and out in several locations instead of fitting secure - as if the diffusers are prohibiting a good fit. I took the kit apart and reassembled it 9 times. I fiddled with the wires inside with tweezers trying figure out what the problem is, tucking in extra wire and making sure none are getting cinched between joins. No avail. I am afraid gluing the top hull onto the bottom is going to make the curve worse because of the stress I see on the plastic trying to force the snap fit.

Not only this - but the light leaks are horrible. Especially along the hull. I cannot get in there to put a line of Tulip black like I did along the bottom hull trenches to seal the light. I did what I could to seal up the conning tower neck edges, but the way the kit is designed, I cannot get in there to seal it from behind. Same with the light leak across the top of the bridge where the face plate is snapped onto the top and sides. If I had to do it over, I think you have to assemble the bridge and neck first, then putty and seal the edges and the top from the outside and push it into the crevice and lightly sand it smooth before painting it to light seal both the top bridge and the sides of the neck front. I do not see any other way you could seal it - because of the way it is engineered and assembled.

But by far, for now - the light leak across the upper trench where the top hull is supposed to sit snug to the bottom is the worst because I cannot get the top hull to secure tightly to the bottom without bowing out from stress. I think I will have to glue and clamp the hulls together - but in dry fitting that with my fingers, it warps the side hulls and causes more hull curvature. So - not sure what I am going to do next to finish this kit. I really wanted to just build it out of the box with minimal fuss so I could return to the Zvezda - and now that is not the case. I am going to have to fuss with this quite a bit to deal with all the issues I now have with it.
I collected and disassembled my kit for a long time. I did not understand why it is bent during Assembly. at the same time - to the junction of the top and bottom of the case flat. the bottom of the hull with glued sides is also flat. the first impression - the upper hand a bit in short than an effort, but - I bit off all connecting splints, except Central - would still bend there is.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

INVAR

Sr Member
Interesting to hear about the struggles this kit has. Can you post any photos of the light leaks that you're talking about? I just got the upper bridge section put together, and now I'm worried that I didn't do enough to seal in the tiny gaps.

Here ya go:

Light Leaks.jpg Light Leaks 2.jpg Light Leaks 3.jpg Light Leaks 4.jpg Light Leaks 5.jpg Light Leaks 6.jpg Light Leaks 1.jpg

I also sheared off the bow peg under the top hull to alleviate the stress, which made the curve worse. The top hull bow peg is like 1 mm short of fitting perfectly into the bottom hole peg when the large 2 rear hull pegs are set and fitted. Even after shearing it off - the hull curve is still there - and now I cannot get the top hull to set evenly onto the bottom hull without bows and gaps due to stresses on the hull after the diffusers are snapped into place.

One bright spot is that using Elmer's white glue for the windows got rid of any LED hot spots when viewing the model as it turns. However the light leaks are interminable and the hull not snapping into place simply accentuates the problem.
 

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Interesting. Do you think that the diffusers have anything to do with the warping? I wonder if anybody has lit one of these up without using them?

SB
 

Dmitriy311

New Member
Interesting. Do you think that the diffusers have anything to do with the warping? I wonder if anybody has lit one of these up without using them?

SB
I tried to collect without diffusers. the result is the same. I'm afraid the problem with this model is scale. I think it was designed for a larger scale, and then just reduced. I see no other explanation for such a mass marriage.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0093.JPG
    DSC_0093.JPG
    602.3 KB · Views: 316

Timmythekid

Sr Member
Yikes, those leaks are uuuuuuuuu...gly. That's really astonishing and disappointing from Bandai. Welp, at least that's a good guide on where to try and head things off at the pass before assembling...I guess. As far as the bow peg, I wonder if shaving the peg down or widening the hole would help alignment, and pull the hull into a straighter shape.
 

Dmitriy311

New Member
Yikes, those leaks are uuuuuuuuu...gly. That's really astonishing and disappointing from Bandai. Welp, at least that's a good guide on where to try and head things off at the pass before assembling...I guess. As far as the bow peg, I wonder if shaving the peg down or widening the hole would help alignment, and pull the hull into a straighter shape.
if you have not started the Assembly-try to connect the top and bottom of the body without all - just the top and bottom.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top