Why don't you try using a car body filler, something like U-Pol or P38 and then thinning it out with some acetone. Thinning it out will allow you to make it more spreadable, it will increase the curing time, the acetone evaporates off and will cure (don't add too much, you will quickly grasp if you have let it down too much). Also you can increase the cure time by adding more catalyst that usually comes the with the product ( you can get it in white, it normally comes in red, but it find white is an easier colour to conceal with paint)
What's the best primer for filling and smoothing wood grain?
- Thread starter red4
- Start date
Why don't you try using a car body filler, something like U-Pol or P38 and then thinning it out with some acetone. Thinning it out will allow you to make it more spreadable, it will increase the curing time, the acetone evaporates off and will cure (don't add too much, you will quickly grasp if you have let it down too much). Also you can increase the cure time by adding more catalyst that usually comes the with the product ( you can get it in white, it normally comes in red, but it find white is an easier colour to conceal with paint)
red4
Sr Member
Argh... I appreciate the tips, but this is getting complicated.
Something I didn't do with the test piece is to sand the bare wood smooth. I simply applied the filler-primer directly onto the unchanged store-bought wood. I think I'll sand the bare wood for my next test.
robn1
Master Member
Filler primer is never gonna dry hard enough to fill in wood grain, it's just paint with talc in it to make it thick. It's for filling scratches, not deep cracks like grain.
Sand your piece as smooth as you can, fill the grain with wood filler or some other type of putty. Even Bondo is good. Then apply primer to get a smooth finish after sanding.
Sand your piece as smooth as you can, fill the grain with wood filler or some other type of putty. Even Bondo is good. Then apply primer to get a smooth finish after sanding.
red4
Sr Member
Oh boy...
Okay. I guess I'll have to try Bondo. I hope the thickness doesn't pose problems. How toxic is it? Should I use it outside, with a mask on? Is the dust from sanding toxic once cured?
robn1
Master Member
Bondo should definitely be used outdoors, or with good ventilation. And yes the sanding dust is bad, wear a face mask or respirator. But that's true for just about anything we use.
Putty or wood filler would work, but the good thing about Bondo is that it's catalyzed so it will cure all the way through even if it's laid on heavy. But it sets up very hard so it will take some effort to sand. I try to apply only enough to do the job, some folks glop it on real thick and then sand most of it away.
Putty or wood filler would work, but the good thing about Bondo is that it's catalyzed so it will cure all the way through even if it's laid on heavy. But it sets up very hard so it will take some effort to sand. I try to apply only enough to do the job, some folks glop it on real thick and then sand most of it away.
red4
Sr Member
I'll be applying it as thin as possible, since I'm only trying to mask wood grain.
A question: is there a kind of Bondo that doesn't require a hardener to be mixed into it by the consumer? I hate working with proportions when I'm on an extremely tight budget. I can't really screw around depleting the Bondo and then sit on it without satisfactory results.
A question: is there a kind of Bondo that doesn't require a hardener to be mixed into it by the consumer? I hate working with proportions when I'm on an extremely tight budget. I can't really screw around depleting the Bondo and then sit on it without satisfactory results.
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robn1
Master Member
Regular Bondo car filler uses a catalyst, that's what most people are referring to when they say "Bondo". But Bondo also makes a one part putty called glazing putty, it's a red putty that comes in a red and black tube. It air dries so apply it thin, let it dry and apply more if needed. It sands very easily.
SuperFLY
Well-Known Member
dries to tacky within seconds though so either be very confident how you're laying it or don't use it. it's for filling pin holes and minor imperfections not for covering a whole project.
i dare say it'll cost you more than normal filler as well. i don't see why adding a squirt of hardener to the filler and mixing it is difficult or has any baring on cost? just do small amounts at a time so you don't waste any. if you run out, mix more. filler dries in minutes so you're not going to be sitting around for ages waiting to apply your next batch. that said if you want a good finish its best to apply thin coats anyway. will save you time not having to sand down huge chunks of filler.
i tried covering a small project using glazing putty/spot putty and it's more trouble than it's worth. kept ruining the finish as 2 swipes later its already hardening and getting tacky.
don't try to rush things for the sake of saving a bit of time, unless you're very experienced you'll just end up wasting more.
(learning the hard way myself)
red4
Sr Member
What I meant about sitting on it is I dread working with proportions because one part tends to deplete before the other, and I might end up with nothing satisfactory before one part depletes, and I can't just go and buy more of the depleted part. I'll end up sitting on the part that isn't depleted.
But it's good to know the glazing putty is a worse hassle.
But it's good to know the glazing putty is a worse hassle.
wwbubba0069
Member
Hard to mess up bondo, adding too much hardener just makes it set up faster. Also they sell extra tubes of just the hardener.
In most places where bondo is sold they have plastic spreaders that the bondo will not stick to. Pick one up they are usually less than a dollar.
In most places where bondo is sold they have plastic spreaders that the bondo will not stick to. Pick one up they are usually less than a dollar.
Cbhurless
New Member
Little woodworking trick: rub it down with bees wax and wipe down well before spraying a light coat of primer. It seals the wood's pours and fills small grain imperfections. Spraying your primer in light coats ensures that it will dry solid and quickly without any solvent bubbles forming.
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