What makes a good bolt for a Stering E-11

[Jedi-72]

I have a demilled sterling converted into an E-11. The only missing piece is a bolt in the ejector port. I want to add a replica piece there to complete the look, but I have a problem. The gun, while it looks amazing, has a piece of solid metal stock, steel I guess, welded inside of tail section that runs from the butt cap to the rear edge of the ejection port. The cocking handle is welded to that, so while it looks great and weighs a TON, nothing moves, and access to the internals is limited to the ejector port or the mag well. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

[Clutch]

I need one too.

 

[lonepigeon]

I think OdiWan72 has resin Sterling bolts.
IIRC he's offered them before. Which reminds me that I need one too.

 

[stormtrooperguy]

mine was similarly missing the bolt.

based on this bit from partsofsw.com:

The bolt, where it shows through the oval cartridge ejection port on the right side of the gun was then covered with aluminum or chrome tape.

i used a piece of PVC pipe cut to fit, with aluminum tape on it:

the small black gap is because the metal bar that makes up the back of the receiver extends into the opening a bit. i tried to get the tape to overlap it nicely, but i never got it right... it looked better this way.


to glue in the pvc, i ejected the magazing and pushed a stick through to paint the glue on where i wanted it, and to apply pressure while it set.

 

[madmax]

Contact WTAC on here as he is a master with sterlings and may have a spare

 

[CMANavy]

Puting a small insert should be okay. I would not cut anything out, let alone free up the action and put a bolt in. Even if the barrel is plugged but the reciever is functional then you have just made a machien gun under the law, a Felony with a mandatory 10 year prison term.

 

[Jedi-72]

CMANavy, love your signature. Think I might put it on a t-shirt.

 

[Darth Lars]

Cut a piece like tk7602 (above). Cut also a notch for the ejection mechanism, a small rectangle to go into that and a long narrow piece that you glue on diagonally. Cut also a couple of pieces to use for spacers along the rim and fashion something to go on the inside of the ejection mechanism. Glue the entire assembly into your ejection port.
I did this with aluminum tube and sheet, but a thin-walled rolled steel tube would be better, because it has a more accurate and/or weatherable finish to start with.