Okay I stumbled across this site and have sat in my chair with my jaw dropped. I can't believe the things you make and how they turn out. I want to try and build a model now. I've built 2 models in my life and wasn't real happy with the way they turned out. So I would like to eventually do a spaceship but maybe a plane or helicopter first. what are the basics I would need to this and have it turn out nice? The problems I had before has been the paint job.. Do I need an airbrush to get a nice finish? If so can you recommend something that is not too expensive. Actually a basics list would be nice.
What do you need to get started? (basics)
- Thread starter Urbanmx
- Start date
CustomPropSculptorGuy
Well-Known Member
Yes - check ebay or just do a google/youtube search
Gigatron
Sr Member
you don't really need an airbrush to get a nice finish. It helps with the more complicated paint schemes, but for monochromatic finishes, you can use a rattle can (like dupli-color or krylon). And I've seen guys with brush painting skills that put some people's airbrush skills, to shame.
The most important tool you need, is practice. Find a garage sale or flea market or even check ebay, for cheap model kits. I'm talking $1 - $5 cheap. Practice assembly techniques. Learn how to properly apply glue. Learn when to use thin cement vs. crazy glue. Learn to fill and sand seams. Then learn how to brush paint so that it looks like it's been airbrushed.
Dropping $100 on a decent airbrush isn't going to make anyone, any better of a model builder.
So, for the basics, I recommend a few cheap models (subject doesn't matter), a decent hobby knife, some hobby-grade sanding sticks, thin cement and some cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) and some decent paintbrushes in different sizes, from fan brushes all the way down to 20/0 liners. For brushable paints, I recommend Vallejo and Testors Model Master acrylics. They clean up with water and brush on smooth.
All the tools (sanding sticks, glue, brushes, etc.) can be found online at places like micromark.com, towerhobbies.com and megahobby.com.
Be sure to ask plenty of questions and most people here will be more than happy to help.
And don't forget to check out dedicated modeling sites like finescale.com, largescaleplanes.com (lsp) and AircraftResourceCenter.com (ARCforums.com).
-Fred
The most important tool you need, is practice. Find a garage sale or flea market or even check ebay, for cheap model kits. I'm talking $1 - $5 cheap. Practice assembly techniques. Learn how to properly apply glue. Learn when to use thin cement vs. crazy glue. Learn to fill and sand seams. Then learn how to brush paint so that it looks like it's been airbrushed.
Dropping $100 on a decent airbrush isn't going to make anyone, any better of a model builder.
So, for the basics, I recommend a few cheap models (subject doesn't matter), a decent hobby knife, some hobby-grade sanding sticks, thin cement and some cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) and some decent paintbrushes in different sizes, from fan brushes all the way down to 20/0 liners. For brushable paints, I recommend Vallejo and Testors Model Master acrylics. They clean up with water and brush on smooth.
All the tools (sanding sticks, glue, brushes, etc.) can be found online at places like micromark.com, towerhobbies.com and megahobby.com.
Be sure to ask plenty of questions and most people here will be more than happy to help.
And don't forget to check out dedicated modeling sites like finescale.com, largescaleplanes.com (lsp) and AircraftResourceCenter.com (ARCforums.com).
-Fred
canofhumdingers
New Member
It's also worth finding a good local hobby shop with knowledgable staff. They can help immensely.
As for what to fill with, there are many types of filler/putty made for all different types of modelling. again, a good hobby shop employee should be able to help you.
As for what to fill with, there are many types of filler/putty made for all different types of modelling. again, a good hobby shop employee should be able to help you.
A few comments:
Hobby knife - remember what the chefs say: you have more accidents with a dull knife (I use a scalpel). Also, flush-cutting wire nippers can be very useful.
Airbrush - you can get good results with a rattle can. But the paint will cost more per model.
Paint brushes - cheap brushes will give cheap results.
Subject - pick something expendable to start with. You will make mistakes. Everybody does. With experience you make fewer and can fix the ones you do make.
General rule - there are no rules. If it is stupid and gives you the results that you want, then it is not stupid.
Hobby knife - remember what the chefs say: you have more accidents with a dull knife (I use a scalpel). Also, flush-cutting wire nippers can be very useful.
Airbrush - you can get good results with a rattle can. But the paint will cost more per model.
Paint brushes - cheap brushes will give cheap results.
Subject - pick something expendable to start with. You will make mistakes. Everybody does. With experience you make fewer and can fix the ones you do make.
General rule - there are no rules. If it is stupid and gives you the results that you want, then it is not stupid.
Dedalus5550
Sr Member
I recommend the Paasche H-set airbrush. It's cheap enough (about $40 or so) to be a beginner model, but experts who've been building for years swear by it. I have a Grex double-action (more professional) airbrush for really fine stuff, but I have a quick-disconnect mechanism so I can easily switch back to the H-set because I love it for the ease of use and the performance when I'm shooting a large area. However, the real expense can be the compressor because those cans of propellant become rather expensive fairly quickly. You can find the Testors Blue Mini compressor for about $100. It does not have a regulator or moisture trap, but I still used one for the first 5 years or so of airbrushing models. (I live in SoCal if you can compare the humidity in your area to mine.)
Besides the airbrush, you'll want 3 or more regular brushes of varying size, sand paper or sanding films that you get from a hobby store (not a hardware store), an x-acto knife and extra blades, filler putty (Squadron, Milliput, and Stucco are all brands that I like to use, but stay clear of Testors), super glue for resin or metal parts or just if you like the quick acting nature of it, plastic cement for plastic, and paint. I would stick with one brand for now so you don't mess up the thinning agents. Different thinners are required for different paints, and that can get complicated.
Also, when you read people's posts about a build they are working on and see a term you don't know DO NOT BE AFRAID TO ASK. That's how everyone learns. For instance, I see someone else already threw out the term "rattle can."
Mike Todd
Besides the airbrush, you'll want 3 or more regular brushes of varying size, sand paper or sanding films that you get from a hobby store (not a hardware store), an x-acto knife and extra blades, filler putty (Squadron, Milliput, and Stucco are all brands that I like to use, but stay clear of Testors), super glue for resin or metal parts or just if you like the quick acting nature of it, plastic cement for plastic, and paint. I would stick with one brand for now so you don't mess up the thinning agents. Different thinners are required for different paints, and that can get complicated.
Also, when you read people's posts about a build they are working on and see a term you don't know DO NOT BE AFRAID TO ASK. That's how everyone learns. For instance, I see someone else already threw out the term "rattle can."
Mike Todd
division 6
Master Member
For filler go with Bondo glazing putty available at any hardware or automotive store, it's about twice the size of Squadron putty for only a few bucks.
It can also be thinned with lacquer thinner, if you decide to go with Squadron putty it can be thinned or smoothed out with fingernail polish remover (with acetone)
You can also use the fine grade wet/dry sand paper available at hardware stores.
Items to think about later if you intend to really get into modeling or prop building for that matter.
Dremel type rotary tool with assorted bits.
Pin Vise (hand drill) with assorted bits.
If you do decide to get an air brush make sure to get a dual action, I prefer a top feed myself.
A desk lamp with magnifying glass comes in handy for the small stuff.
Other things that I have on my personal "to-get list" Punch set, PE (Photo Etch) bending jig.
As Gigatron mentioned check out dedicated modeling sites, they have a wealth of information.
While we are at it SAFETY.
Tools can be very sharp and should be handled with care and respect.
Have a first aid kit handy.
CA glue can quickly seal small wounds.
Dust mask or respirator when sanding unless wet sanding.
Good air circulation while gluing and painting,
Safety glasses if using a power tools be it a Dremel or drill or working with PE as it tends to go flying and is very sharp.
Also be careful if you have small children or pets, they like to eat small parts.
D6
It can also be thinned with lacquer thinner, if you decide to go with Squadron putty it can be thinned or smoothed out with fingernail polish remover (with acetone)
You can also use the fine grade wet/dry sand paper available at hardware stores.
Items to think about later if you intend to really get into modeling or prop building for that matter.
Dremel type rotary tool with assorted bits.
Pin Vise (hand drill) with assorted bits.
If you do decide to get an air brush make sure to get a dual action, I prefer a top feed myself.
A desk lamp with magnifying glass comes in handy for the small stuff.
Other things that I have on my personal "to-get list" Punch set, PE (Photo Etch) bending jig.
As Gigatron mentioned check out dedicated modeling sites, they have a wealth of information.
While we are at it SAFETY.
Tools can be very sharp and should be handled with care and respect.
Have a first aid kit handy.
CA glue can quickly seal small wounds.
Dust mask or respirator when sanding unless wet sanding.
Good air circulation while gluing and painting,
Safety glasses if using a power tools be it a Dremel or drill or working with PE as it tends to go flying and is very sharp.
Also be careful if you have small children or pets, they like to eat small parts.
D6
MML
Well-Known Member
There are some great articles here:
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/techmain.htm
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/techmain.htm
Materials of all kinds are used. For guys who do strait scratch builds they can and will use anything at their disposal.I can't speak for them,but with designing a model(especially a S.S) weight and strength are of most importance. I've seen models built of plywood, balsa wood, styrene,acrylic,abs.Some guys build masters,make molds of silicone rubber and cast in and lay fiberglass. There is no "one technique"but some of the really great builders here in the RPF use everything at their disposal.Vacuform and scratched parts along with castings.You need a "good eye" (something I lack) to really pick apart reference photos of these old S.S moldels to I.D the kit parts used. Many of the incredible builds you see in here are based on models that are 30 years old or more. Some S.S builds I have seen were stictly based on CG models that never actually existed except perhaps as a maquet in the post production of a film.Before you "dive in" to building S.S replicas, the advice given in here is sound. Warm up to building some commercial kits and build upon your skills. There are also heaps of great tutorials out there if you know where to look. FSM has great tips and techniques articles that are universall good,and not just useful for WWII and Formula I race car kits. Also,watching the threads in here of what guys do will help you with what you are up against. This is a fascinating hobby, but an expensive and trying one. You need $$$$,the right tools,mind set, lots of time and space to build these S.S monsters.I've never been able to take the plunge.I have far too many irons in the fire and with the curve balls life throws my way, there is always something to put a wrench in the gears of progress.
