what clay do you use

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cityhunter96

New Member
i like customizing stuff but i need clay so i can branch out. what do you guys use thats easy to get? please help
 

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hellonearth

New Member
i use super and firm sculpys, bought at hobby lobby, the super sculpy i like cause it doesn't seam to dry out, easy to work with, and stretches and sculpts easily without any of that "tearing" or "breaking" that some clay does. i'm currently sculpting an about a 1/8 scale predator that i'll be threading up in a day or so, it'll definitely show you what you can do with it. it's flexibility allows for serious detailing. :D

i've also used both for just parts for my HT preds or additions to existing pieces, and you can bake it at a low enough temp. that it doesn't melt the plastic you may be adding to. :p
 

cityhunter96

New Member
i use super and firm sculpys, bought at hobby lobby, the super sculpy i like cause it doesn't seam to dry out, easy to work with, and stretches and sculpts easily without any of that "tearing" or "breaking" that some clay does. i'm currently sculpting an about a 1/8 scale predator that i'll be threading up in a day or so, it'll definitely show you what you can do with it. it's flexibility allows for serious detailing. :D

i've also used both for just parts for my HT preds or additions to existing pieces, and you can bake it at a low enough temp. that it doesn't melt the plastic you may be adding to. :p
i would love to see it but you said it doesnt seem to dry out do you mean it never dries and its always flexible or do you mean it dries eventually in a semi long amount of time like 5 hours
 

botman

New Member
i use milliput.
i learned it from the amazing mr.Whitebase from other forum.
it's a mixable clay and can be molded. it's soft as you mold it but gets hard for about 30 mins after molding.
 

Yarko

Well-Known Member
I agree with hellonearth, super sculpey is the best clay I've tried for figures. Citihunter96, supersculpey does never dry... until you bake it. This way it is you who decide when your work is finished, not the clay. And you can bake it multiple times, just in case you need to add new layers or fix some details.
 

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zuckuss77

New Member
I think a small problem with super sculpey for you will be baking the plastic your adding on.Hell on earth you will have to give details on baking slowly with hot toy parts.I never knew that was possible, its good info_Oh and love all your customs i was check out your stuff last night.You must have money to do that.Are there any predators you own that you didnt touch or did you custom them all?
For staffs or spears i think i would start with a metal rod and add sculpey around it then add details or computers ect ect...I really would love to make weapons for my predators.
 

hellonearth

New Member
I think a small problem with super sculpey for you will be baking the plastic your adding on.Hell on earth you will have to give details on baking slowly with hot toy parts.I never knew that was possible, its good info_Oh and love all your customs i was check out your stuff last night.You must have money to do that.Are there any predators you own that you didnt touch or did you custom them all?
For staffs or spears i think i would start with a metal rod and add sculpey around it then add details or computers ect ect...I really would love to make weapons for my predators.
well thank you buddy, for the comment on my customs that is :D

and as yarko said, it is nice cause it doesn't EVER DRY, and you can basically, say if you're making a spear, you could bake the basic shape w/ the wire inside (highly suggested even though super sculpy doesn't do much in "chipping" or "breaking" it's still nice for stability) and then after its baked and holdable you can add a little thin layer of clay for details and bake it again! it's really quite awesome! i must've baked the "backpack" for the kit i'm working on 15 different times adding new details each time.

and as far as the baking it on top of HT or other toy parts, the directions say bake it at 275 for 15 min. per 1/4 in. of material being used, now even at that temp toy parts wont "melt" but i would recommend turning the temp down to 225 and baking it for a couple min. longer literally 2-4 min more than directed and everything should be fine, i would check periodically cause sometimes, depending on what part it is some toy companies use softer plastics for different details, while they still shouldn't "melt" i just check to make sure,(never had anything messed up that way) and if you're building on top of something such as a shoulder bell, or something that would have a cavity underneath, ball up a piece of aluminum foil to fit the under shape so it doesn't warp while baking :) and once it's done try to maintain the shape as much as possible as you carry it over to the sink to have the (already running) cold water over it to sortof "freeze" it's position.

now if you're working on a bigger piece (with toy plastic base) i would suggest baking it at the temp for a few min. less than directed, cold water, and then bake again to make up for whatever time you didn't bake it for to begin with, if that makes sense? hope this helps bud. and others who wondered :p done a bit of trial and error, with not hardly any error to be honest, believe me i myself was surprised at the temps plastic could handle.

and @ zuckuss, no, i have 12-13 HT preds, all customized severely, with the exception of the berzerker and falconer which were obviously newer and possibly haven't gotten to yet (although those two came pretty much ready to go, while previous HT preds had paintups that were less than desireable for the most part.

hope i could, and glad if i did, help any of you fellow customizers ;)
 

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