bummer6
Well-Known Member
I've got paintable latex caulk, so I'm covered. Keep in mind I live in Sweden and most american brands don't exist here... I have never heard of DAP, for instance.
Warhammer 40k Iron Warrior chaos space marine
- Thread starter bummer6
- Start date
I've got paintable latex caulk, so I'm covered. Keep in mind I live in Sweden and most american brands don't exist here... I have never heard of DAP, for instance.
I just use a full-sized caulking tube in my gun, and then cut the tip small. I caulk all of open/ugly seams and imperfections before I even seal the foam at all, and smooth it out with my finger. Wet rag for cleanup. After I've sealed the foam (I use both diluted PVA glue and Plastidip), I found that I can still apply more paintable caulk if I come across a spot I missed or don't like, without problems coming up when I spray my colors. DAP works just as well, I've just found that just about any paintable caulk will work just as well, and you can get a couple of big tubes on sale here for a couple bucks. Just my preference, but I also use white or off-white; it's harder to see where it's going and how it spreads if you use clear or tinted caulks. Nice work so far!
darianwiccan
New Member
Question for you bummer6: Did you use cross-linked polyethylene for your helmet? I am working on securing foam to begin my own Space Marine build, and I've found a site that sells "polyethylene closed cell foam" for quite a bit cheaper than the cross-linked polyethylene that most people have used/suggested.
This question is for anyone who sees it and knows: what is the difference between normal and cross-linked polyethylene, in terms of doing a Space Marine build?
This question is for anyone who sees it and knows: what is the difference between normal and cross-linked polyethylene, in terms of doing a Space Marine build?
Although the cross-linked polyethylene I use is technically listed as more dense (and durable) than regular poly or EVA, the difference is pretty light. If you're getting raw sheets (smooth on both sides, with no heat-stamping), either will work well (I've built a Space Marine using 1/2" closed cell with no problems). If your foam has been heat-stamped on one side, it will be more rigid and stronger than the same thickness of unstamped foam (and also harder to cut). Most bulk foam dealers don't sell heat-stamped pieces, but the Sears best-step mats with the diamond heat-stamp are used by a lot of people.
I'm not sure where you're located or are looking, but I've ordered my cross-linked from here:
http://www.foambymail.com/MC2-.html
They also sell a ton of other foam types, including regular closed-cell. I'm not saying there isn't cheaper to be found out there, but they've been really good to me and their stuff is high quality. I see other places suggested, I recommend these guys just because I've ordered from them probably a dozen times without problems.
darianwiccan
New Member
bummer6 - sorry to hijack your thread with foam talk!
laellee - I have been looking at foambymail.com as I'm just about 4 hours south of Detroit. I found cheaper foam (74" x 15-yard 1/2" thick) at rochfordsupply.com, but after I placed my order I got a call stating they were out of the 1/2" and didn't know when they would get any in. I am also looking at foamexpress1.com, and am just waiting on a shipping quote from them to see if they will be cheaper in the end. Most likely though, I'll have to bite the bullet (financially speaking) and spend the little extra for Foambymail sheets.
I use 1 1/2" strapping with parachute buckles, two per side spaced 8 inches apart or so. Here's a horrible picture example::
Top half is an inside view of a shoulder bell with two strap/buckle assemblies, bottom is the side of a chest with slots cut for the strapping. If you leave the strapping long, you can then adjust the buckle fit so that it sits where you want it. For mounting, I hot-glue the end of my strap completely around a rectangular piece of foam, and then hot glue that whole thing to the underside of the bell; it seems to hold a lot better than just gluing the strap directly to the shoulder. In the build above, the 'chest-side' straps are actually only one length threaded in one hole and out the other.
bummer6
Well-Known Member
Do you happen to have any better pictures? maybe from more of a distance so I can see the effect as well? Seems like a good idea, but don't the shoulderbells hang a bit low if you do that? Most people I've seen have some kind of contraption to hold them a few inches above the chest armor.
I found a place called The Foam Factory not too far from you. They are in Macomb Michigan. I'm driving there tomorrow to pick up some cross linked PE.
AMFoam has pretty cheap foam, the same stuff for about $10 cheaper. However, they don't list shipping on their website and I'm guessing that and the handling charges make up the difference.
AMFoam has pretty cheap foam, the same stuff for about $10 cheaper. However, they don't list shipping on their website and I'm guessing that and the handling charges make up the difference.
Just smooth in more caulking, then add more Plastidip. The easiest way to check your Plastidip coverage is to just spray the piece with some primer and see if a) it has a fairly even texture and b)it doesn't have any porous areas. If it looks very uneven or porous, spray on (or brush on) more Plastidip. I use aerosol, and end up with 3 coats (usually) before moving on.
bummer6
Well-Known Member
Alright, thank you! I will post pictures once I get the helmet sorted.
bummer6
Well-Known Member
I'll be installing glospex (sunglasses that light up) in the helmet, and I've been toying with the idea of only having one of the lenses light up (the one that doesn't have a big scar across it) to imply that whatéver struck the helmet to create that big cut also broke the lens and maybe even blinded the marine. Opinions?
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