Vader ESB FX Saber Conversion to accurate prop

Kylash

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Just wanted to give a sneak peak at the MR FX Vader ESB lightsaber conversion im 90% complete with. All I need to do is add the wires and inner clamp sleeve and remove the MR markings on the bottom cap. Later tonight Ill post more detailed pics and the breakdown of what I removed, added, modified etc, since its a compilation of MR parts, replica parts, and original MPP parts. I'll also take suggestions on what I could improve, I havent studied this thing for years like some have, but for now I believe i will end up with something comparable to an LE saber for less than half the price. (considering I got my FX for $35 :D ) Enjoy the tease for now.

esbmrfx.jpg
 
Did i mention if you unscrew the bottom and flip a battery around that it has the igniting, buzzing, and motion activated wooshing sounds still? :D (coiuldnt find a good place to hide a switch, so thats the only way I got around it being concealed.)
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kylash327 @ Mar 26 2007, 11:33 AM) [snapback]1448447[/snapback]</div>
Did i mention if you unscrew the bottom and flip a battery around that it has the igniting, buzzing, and motion activated wooshing sounds still? :D (coiuldnt find a good place to hide a switch, so thats the only way I got around it being concealed.)
[/b]


Nice, I was wondering how much, if any, of the electronics were still in tact. I've been thinking about a similar project myself.
 
WARNING, LOTS OF BIG PICS.

These are not the best, didnt clean up the saber etc since its not complete yet, but once it is Ill get a nice photoshoot. As you will be able to see from the photos, my main area of concern is the holes in the tube below the activator bubble button, the holes that were for the wires etc from the FX saber. These will be a little less noticable once I get the clamp sleeve in there (graciously donated by ToothTech), but Im thinking I may cover them with some chrome tape under the clamp just to help. Still need to add the wires and remove MR copyright info.

To get the original MPP innards inside the tube, I had to grind it out a bit, it was JUST too small for everything to fit. It is of note that the holes in the FX tube do not perfectly match with the MPP innards, its really close, but not perfect, but once the wires are inserted it will be hard to tell, the center holes which show are centered. When I gutted the original, I tossed the plastic clamp and removed the blade from its 8 wire connector, so if I ever needed to, it COULD still have a functional blade.

And as previously mentioned, i have incorporated the original inside parts for the FX motion activated woosh, buzz and power up sounds. I could not find a good place to hide a functional switch, so I made it so you just need to turn a battery around and screw it back up, but it buzzes and wooshes nice and loud then :D Again, any suggestions from experts would be appreciated.

Parts:
Body/Grips/Shroud - MR ESB FX Vader
Clamp body- Unknown, original MPP?
Clamp Pin - original MPP?
Calc Bubbles - Unknown, fanmade
Shroud/Black Bar knobs - original MPP
Innards/Emitter Insides - original MPP

vader1.jpg

vader2.jpg

vader3.jpg

vader4.jpg

vader5.jpg

vader6.jpg

vader7.jpg

vader8.jpg

vader9.jpg

vader10.jpg

vader11.jpg

vader12.jpg
 
Nice job. I'm looking to build a "hanger" saber for my costume and that looks like a great way to do it.
 
Thanks for the compliments :) This is my first try and really making an accurate replica lightsaber, everything id done years ago during highschool etc was fanmade stuff, so to modify an FX and make it accurate is a very nice feeling, to finally have a pretty darn accurate prop, especially if it stands up to RPF standards. Again, let me know if anythign else aside from what I mentioned needs changing or anything. Thanks again :)
 
hopefully I can get a video with sound of this later, but I rigged this thing up so when you touch any part of the metal body and the metal pin in the clamp it activates the ignite humm and wooshing sounds :D I just connected the positive and negative wires from the soundboard to the body and clamp pin by soldering and your body completes the circuit when touched, just like those little easter chickens that peep when you touch the diodes on the bottom :p I thought it made sense to have the saber activate through touch because it seems in the movies anytime someone drops their saber...it turns off.
 
anyone know if its a really bad idea to have 3 AA batteries conducting through your body? ^^; my arm kinda feels funny now a day after playing with it on and off, lol
 
couple new pics of the saber with the clamp sleeve and ends covered to hide the soldering adn wires for the touch activated sound.

vader13.jpg

vader14.jpg

vader15.jpg

vader16.jpg
 
Very nice job..

I just sent a burned out FX to Ultra sabers, we will see what comes back.
 
Back
Top