Toy bash original design RC Sci Fi truck

Discussion in 'General Modeling' started by mung, May 21, 2015.

  1. mung

    mung Active Member

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    A long time lurker, this is my first post to the RPF. I have a blogsite rcscifi.blogspot.com.au where I very infrequently post my modeling projects, but a forum has more of a community spirit which helps in adding to the motivation to complete projects, so I thought i would have a go at putting up some of my stuff here starting with this.
    While I admire greatly the modellers who build the studio scale replicas down to the very last kit part, readers of my blog will know that I prefer to make my own designs. This may well be attributed to laziness but I enjoy the process of designing sci fi vehicles and particularly assembling shapes from disparate parts to make something new, known as kitbashing but more precisely in this case toy bashing.
    I have always been a spaceship nut and started in the 1980's building original spaceship models, but before that I was always a Gerry Anderson fan and in particular I loved the ground based vehicles. I also had an interest in Radio Controlled offroad car racing. Some years ago now I thought about combing the two interests and that is what I have been doing in my spare time ever since.

    One of the main issues with putting detailed sci fi bodies onto RC chassis's is the greater weight. Most Rc cars only have to support a thin shell of lightweight lexan, whereas in the models I like to build there is a great volume of dense High Impact Styrene (known as HIPS), not to mention PVC parts, kit parts and other detailing paraphernalia. The suspension systems always have to be modified to some extent to compensate. Sometimes this is simply to move the shock positions or to upgrade the springs, but more often than not it is all this and more.

    More than a year ago now I was looking at the toys in a discount store that may have interesting plastic shapes and found this rubbish truck toy which was not too expensive.



    [​IMG]
    A little bit later I purchased a Bruder Toys large tracked dozer thinking It might be fun to try and use the tracks for something. The cool thing about the Bruder range of toys is that they are all at a standard scale of 1/16 and reasonably accurate to the subject at least as far as most toys go. The pain of the Bruder toy range is that they use no screws in the assembly, its all tabs into slots with barbs that make it fiddly if not downright difficult to pull apart. Anyway it sat around in a box in bits for quite some time.



    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Some months later I found another of the rubbish truck toys for $3.50 at a thrift store or charity shop as its more commonly referred to in Australia.


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    Many more months later (only last week) I had the idea to see what would happen if I put them all together. Here is the result of that toy bashing.


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    Its basically the dozer cabin, back to front, joined to the combination of the two back ends of the rubbish trucks joined end to end, split down the middle and widened. A pile of 2mm styrene ties it all together. Parts off the dozer and the truck are re-purposed for detail bits and pieces along with a few kit parts, a small amount of foamed PVC and more styrene and assorted evergreen strips and textured sheet. A few urethane cast parts have also been employed here and there from silicon molds I made in the late 80's. It has a wooden frame underneath for reinforcement.
    The wood is superglued to the plastic parts with thick superglue. The plastic is sanded with very coarse sandpaper to roughen the glossy surface so the superglue has something to mechanically bond to. All the PVC and Urethane parts are also superglued with a sanding treatment first. All the styrene parts are glued with Methylene Chloride solvent ( a known carcinogen) from an old EMA dispenser I have had since my professional model making days way back in the early 80's. The original polyethylene bottle eventually went brittle and broke apart but I just happened to have an ink container made from the correct plastic and with the matching thread to screw into the stainless steel dispenser.


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    The chassis, which is still to be completed, is based on a Venom Creeper seeing as I had a few parts still left over from another project which is still underway, see Creeper 6X6 project. Readers of my blog would also know I start a lot of projects and have many on the go at the same time. Its finishing them that can be elusive. I find that some times what seems an insurmountable problem on a project becomes very much simpler after you have fiddled about with something else for a while. I also find that sometimes solutions to the more mechanical aspects of RC vehicles can take some time to bubble up and present themselves.

    Here is the body work balanced on top of the chassis so far to give a rough idea of the way it will sit.


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    The yellow lump at the back is from the rear of the Bruder dozer. There is some more to do at the back and quite a bit more to do at the front including adding a driver figure and fitting a seat. The original cockpit has been cut up as it faced the other way. I may be able to adapt the existing seat for re-use, its not a simple exercise at it was all molded in one at an angle with the rest of the interior. Much butchery has had to take place to extract it.
    The wheels and tires are the old Axial Rockster beadlocks with Rock Lizards which, true to form, I have had sitting in a box for years waiting for a project to come along.


    You can see how messy the bench gets with all the butchering and sanding of parts to get them to fit. I think I'll have to have a clean up before going much further.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2015
  2. kruleworld

    kruleworld Well-Known Member

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    ah, weird. futuristic exploration vehicle?
    It should look less toylike once you get some paint on it.
     
  3. RogueTrooper

    RogueTrooper Well-Known Member

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    toy bash original design...something...something...

    I don't mean to be critical....but....WTF are you actually building...??:confused

    I suppose you are building SOMETHING...and that's always cool;)


    Your descriptions have no line breaks....I don't like that.
     
  4. Randy13

    Randy13 Well-Known Member

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    I like what I'm seeing so far. I love original designs like this and you're making this RC too. I can't wait to see more.
     
  5. mung

    mung Active Member

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    I thought I was building an RC Sci Fi truck... What would you like me to call it?
    You gonna have to explain about the "line breaks" I'm not sure what you mean.
     
  6. mofo77

    mofo77 Well-Known Member

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    great work here,i'm a big fan of kit bashing and toy bashing.good to see some original stuff.:thumbsup
    glad to see we have another western aussie on here.:)
     
  7. darth_myeek

    darth_myeek Sr Member

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    Do your thing Mung. I'm liking it.

    -Mike
     
  8. crackerjazz

    crackerjazz Sr Member

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    Awesome blogsite, Mung! I especially liked the Moonbus and the original Creeper! :) And, man, you seem to have all the right tools to build your cool projects. Plus CAD and artistic skills to boot!
     
  9. Constantine

    Constantine Active Member

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    Neat, a very nice combination of the two! Looking forward to seeing more.
     
  10. mung

    mung Active Member

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    Thanks for the kind encouragement. Some progress has been made.

    I finally completed constructing the chassis.
    The creeper chassis plates have been extended by some aluminium angle and channel section.
    The plates are held apart by some 6mm and 8mm aluminium rod spacers that have been drilled on the
    mini lathe and threaded at both ends to accept M3 cap screws.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The shocks have been mounted to the link mounting points on the axles with the links moved inboard.
    A piece of silicon fuel tubing has been inserted as a flexible bush into the hole in the shock shaft to allow
    some angular movement.


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    The top of the shocks use the mounting system that is included with the Hot racing shocks.
    These include a couple of silicon O rings and an aluminium ball shaped insert to allow for angular movement.


    [​IMG]


    A styrene tray was made by heating some styrene with a hot air gun at specific points and bending it onto
    a wooden form one bend at a time. The trick is to shield the parts that need to remain flat so that only the
    plastic at the bend area gets heated. It is secured to the frame with some philips headed plastic screws
    salvaged from some old toy or appliance dis-assembly. The battery, speed controller and receiver are held
    on with self adhesive velcro. The battery is further sandwiched by some yellow EVA foam cut from a child's
    learn to swim surfboard.


    [​IMG]


    The speed controller is a Castle Sidewinder 3 which can control both brushless and in this case a brushed
    motor using two of the 3 connectors. It can also be programmed through a Castle link and USB cable from
    your computer. It is set to crawler mode which gives a no delay reverse which I like as well as a drag brake at idle.
    The rear steering servo connects to a Hobby King servo reverser then to a Y connector with the front steering
    servo giving 4 wheel steering. Due to the 4 wheel steering it has a very small turning circle and is very maneuverable.


    Unfortunately as expected the top heavy body tends to flop over to one side or another as can be seen below.


    [​IMG]


    A solution to fix this was to attempt to make a sway bar. After some fiddling about, this was made from some
    2.5mm piano wire and a couple of small brass plates. Only the rear of the chassis had enough room to fit this as the motor
    gets in the way at the front.This turned out to be entirely successful at curing the flop. A small DuBro collar
    secures the ends of the sway bar into the original shock positions on the axle. The piano wire is pretty old as
    can be seen by the surface rust, it'll need cleaning and possibly some paint. The hole that the sway bar pivots
    in has to be slightly bigger, preferably elongated into a slot to allow for the fact that the pivot position does not
    match the apparent pivot of the 4 link suspension. Its needs some play to compensate.


    [​IMG]


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    Here you can see the result of adding the sway bar with a nice level body.


    [​IMG]


    I think the body probably sits a bit too high overall, but there's not a lot I can do about that at this point.
    I am going to add a bunch of tanks hanging down at the sides which may cure that perception.
    There is still some more volume to add to the body work at the front so that will help as well.


    I completed the detailing of the top and nearly finished the rear.


    [​IMG]


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    The yellow part of the rear platform was originally from the top of the cabin of the dozer.
    The dark grey checker plate floor was from one of the rubbish trucks. The two black shapes that say Dick Smith
    upside down on them are the servo cases of my very first radio control unit from about 1980.
    They've sat in a box for nearly 35 years waiting for the right spot to glue them.
    Got a small amount to add to the back and then finish the front before the grey primer to see how its all looking.


    The chassis also needs some paint.
    The worst part about that is having to dis-assemble and then re-assemble everything over again.


    More soon...

    Oh I forgot to mention that I have made an attempt to format this post to to make it easier to read, taking on board "troops" stated preference.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2015
    Daniel Nelms and Randy13 like this.
  11. Mike J.

    Mike J. Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wow, I thought this was a cool project before this last post! This is great!

    It kinda makes me think of the vehicles in "Moon", but IIRC, they were pulled by wires, not RC'ed.

    So, what's next?

    And the creeper is awesome as well :)

    I'd say LMK if you need any greeblies, but since I'm on the other side of the world, you'd probably be finished by the time they got there.


    -MJ
     
  12. jarroth

    jarroth Well-Known Member

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    in first post i thought it was going to be a Alien inspired space transport ship.

    like the truck idea too :)
     
  13. yuumi2891103

    yuumi2891103 Sr Member

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    Cool original design and RC? Wow! Can't wait to see it in action.

    Keep it up !

    katsu
     
  14. mung

    mung Active Member

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    Thanks again to everyone for the encouragement.
    This forum really helps to keep the motivation up and to press on.

    I made up pairs of headlights using some Cree Led aluminium penlight torches I got from China on Ebay.
    The torches worked out costing about $4 each which I thought was a pretty good deal.
    They claim they put out about 1000 lumens, I suspect it may be a bit lower than this but they are incredibly
    bright for their size and only use 1 AA battery at 1.5 volts.
    They conveniently unscrew at the business end making for a really nice lens and reflector housing
    and are easy to mount and solder some wires to.

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    I wired them up 4 in series thus requiring a 6 volt supply.
    The battery for the chassis is 7.4 volts so I am employing a Turnigy Ubec which can deliver a switchable 5 or
    6 volts at 3amps from any input battery between 2s or 6s which in LiPo battery speak means between 7.4
    and 22.2 volts. These 4 penlights are only pulling 1 amp from the battery so there is plenty in reserve.

    [​IMG]

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    The Ubec is wired to a little adapter which is made from a deans connector plug and socket soldered back to
    back with the feed wires coming off the positive and negative at the join.
    The join is then covered with some suitable heatshrink. It is a convenient way of plugging it in between the
    battery and the speed controller.
    The lights are wired to a servo extension lead with one end cut off and the appropriate end plugs into the servo
    style female connector on the output of the UBEC which stands for ( Universal Battery Eliminator Circuit).
    In the old days of RC you used to have an extra separate battery for the receiver, servos and any other electrical
    systems it is this legacy battery that is supposedly being eliminated by the UBEC.

    [​IMG]





    The lights are switched by a push button toggle switch mounted on the side of the cab which when painted
    will just look like a random bit of detail.
    It probably would be cooler to make a switch that can be controlled from the transmitter, I am only using 2
    of the three channels, but that was laying around in a box so I used it. I like to use whatever is to hand where possible.

    [​IMG]

    The cockpit has been started but still has more work to come.
    A 1/16 Bruder Toys man sits in the seat.
    I'm thinking of eventually making some sort of space helmet and converting his rolled up sleeves to be more
    space suit like.

    I made up some tanks from PVC pipe end caps and the next size up pipe which has had a slice removed from
    it's circumference to bring it closer to the outside diameter of the caps.
    Mounting pieces were made from 10mm foamed PVC, first a hole is made of the same diameter of the pipe
    and then sections are cut to suit.
    These slightly domed end caps are getting hard to find.
    All the new stock at the hardware store have totally flat ends which are not as interesting a shape and I can
    make those myself easily enough with a disc of flat sheet.

    [​IMG]

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    The chassis was shortened at the front to fit the body work that has been built, but yet to be detailed.
    The olive green radiator looking shape is a leftover spare part from a Tamiya Wild Willy Jeep kit.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    More soon...
     
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  15. Mike J.

    Mike J. Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This looks great :)

    IIRC, they used LED torches for the headlights on the Moon vehicles as well.


    -MJ
     
  16. RichardJones

    RichardJones Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is awesome! I love your creativity and the RC work is very impressive!!
     
  17. teslabe

    teslabe Active Member

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    https://www.pololu.com/product/2802

    Love the build, love the scale..... Take a look at this RC switch for the headlights (torches) and take advantage of that unused channel on your radio.
     
  18. mung

    mung Active Member

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    Thanks teslabe for that Pololu link I ordered some of those switches.
     
  19. Randy13

    Randy13 Well-Known Member

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    I am enjoying this a lot. It looks like something that's a lot of fun to build. Keep up the great work.
     
  20. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    This looks like such a fun build! :)
     
  21. SupaTrooper

    SupaTrooper Member

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    Thunderbirds are go!
     
  22. kev1969

    kev1969 Well-Known Member

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    This is great :thumbsup keep it up.
     
  23. mung

    mung Active Member

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    I wired up and installed the Pololu rc switch using some cut up servo extension leads as plugs.
    These switches work a treat. Thanks again to teslabe for the link.
    They have an onboard flashing surface mount LED that blinks mostly off when the switch is off and mostly on when the switch is on.
    I covered the tiny board with clear heat shrink to insulate the contacts and to be able to see the led indicator working.
    The switch defaults to off so when you power up the RC receiver the switch is open and a push of the required control (in this case a button toggle) activates it.
    Pressing the button again switches it off.
    The button on the controller of the 3 channel wheel radio is usually employed for such tasks as changing gears on a two speed electric vehicle.
    If you put a servo on that channel, toggling the switch makes it travel from the equivalent of fully rotated right to fully rotated left.
    Toggling the switch again has the reverse effect.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I decided to add some rear red LEDs for tail lights.
    The forward voltage drop on these clear red LEDs is about 2 volts each, I have a 6 volt supply.
    I used the handy online led resistor calculator provided by the company I buy the LEDs from, to calculate the required resistor for the two LEDs in series at 6 volts.
    This was a 150 ohm 0.5 watt resistor soldered before the LEDs in series on the positive rail.

    The LEDs are mounted in chrome bezels.
    They are retained in the bezel by a poly ethylene plug which goes behind the LED and just pushes into the back of the bezel relying on friction to stay in place.
    This is not a very satisfactory system as you can easily push the LED back out of the bezel from the front.
    I put a couple of blobs of hot glue behind to prevent this from happening.
    I made a removable styrene cover to hide the wiring underneath. It attaches with a couple of plastic thread screws salvaged from a disassembled toy.

    [​IMG]

    The cockpit console also has a couple of bright white LEDS buried in the cockpit console.
    The bright whites drop 3 volts each so didn't need any resistor.
    A model kit part was used as a dual screen console with a bit of thin acrylic (perspex) sanded with fine wet and dry to frost it on the back, glued in behind.
    Some silver paint was added as a bit of a reflector before gluing in place.

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    The console illumination is wired up to the same feed as the headlights.

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    The screens throw up a small amount of light onto the driver figure.
    The photo below is a longish exposure and shows it much brighter than in reality.

    [​IMG]

    The driver figure has a plastic thread screw through the chair into his coight to keep him seated.

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    The Bruder toy's clear plastic windscreen has a wiper blade molded into it.
    It will get painted or may have to be detailed with some styrene strip.

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    I also removed the old push switch casing that was on the side of the cab and covered the hole with a kit part or two.

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    I've added a few more kit parts here and there, mostly at the front.

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    The lower sides of the cab have been paneled and I added some smaller tanks on top of the larger ones to more fill the truck toy's rear wheel arches.

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    The piping for the smaller tanks is made from some single conductor electrical wire.
    It is cheap and easy to obtain from a hardware store by the metre.
    It is also easy to bend, stays bent, paintable and the pvc outer insulation is able to be securely glued with either thick or thin superglue.
    It can be straightened by just clamping one end in a vice and pulling the other end.
    You can get a few different sizes, the two pictured below are 4mm and 2.75mm in diameter.
    Multi strand wire is no good as it cant hold a tight radius bend.
    You can sometimes find this stuff in skips on building sites, though with the price of scrap copper these days it is harder to find for free.

    [​IMG]

    There is an empty space on the chassis between the wheels that I am toying with filling with some detail or other.
    I would also like to do a bit of work to the driver before finally cranking up the primer and beginning the paint process.
    Mechanically and electrically the vehicle is complete and working.


    More soon...
     
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  24. zookone

    zookone Well-Known Member

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    Really Awesome! Subscribed. What are you thinking for paint and decals? Are you gonna keep some of the bright colors?
     
  25. Gimpdiggity

    Gimpdiggity Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Nice work on the kit bash. I'm an RC guy myself, so it's always cool to see what people are doing with RC stuff. It's nice to see someone using a Creeper still. Everyone does SCX-10 and Vaterra stuff now.

    When it gets done...it can hunt my Alien Crawling Creature...

    [​IMG]

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqcv_HbRV7M
     
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  26. mung

    mung Active Member

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    At the moment I am thinking orange or mining truck yellow, with heavy weathering. The cab sides will remain black as that part is molded from polyethylene or polypropylene which will not accept paint. I think it will look fine black anyway.
    As to Decals I will look at designing something simple in inkscape for that.

    Reminds me of the Mutt Cutts van in Dumb and Dumber.
     
  27. mung

    mung Active Member

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    Finally got some primer on it, after completing the detailing process.
    I filled in some of the gaps underneath with an extra large tank and equipment box per side.
    The tanks were made from the usual PVC pipe end caps with 10mm foamed PVC sheet mounting brackets.
    The body was lightly sanded with fine wet and dry and washed with hot water and dish-washing detergent to
    make sure the paint keys nicely.



    [​IMG]


    The bit of detail above the large tank is from a disposable camera, in fact the little dome shape was the lens.
    Disposable cameras have a pile of interesting styrene parts in them, and photo shops are only too happy to
    give you a bag full as they are just thrown away. I originally got a pile of them to scavenge the flash capacitors
    inside them which were used for some DIY valve guitar amp projects. One thing you have to be careful
    of when disassembling them is the capacitors can hold quite a charge and will give you quite a shock that is
    very unpleasant, I speak from experience.
    I wouldn't recommend going near them if you have any form of electrical sensitivity.


    [​IMG]


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    My finger hurt after spraying three quarters of a large can of red oxide car primer on it.

    I have started going over the edges with a silver paint pen. Liquid mask (latex) will then be brushed over this
    so that the edges will appear pretty scraped up revealing bits of bare metal and primer under the top coat.

    The current plan is to paint the sides orange ( a colour called tango) with the middle and underneath detailed
    sections a dark grey (primer).


    [​IMG]



    More soon...
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2015
    Strode, Randy13, SofaKing01 and 2 others like this.
  28. Albertese

    Albertese Well-Known Member

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    Looks great! What is this truck meant to be carrying? You know, "in-universe?"

    --Alex
     
  29. zookone

    zookone Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    566
    Looks so Rad! I used to work in a photomat and can atest to the danger of the capacitors. We use to make them pop on purpose for entertainment by placing a screwdriver across the curcuit, (plastic handle screwdriver). My dude got zapped once pulling film out and got burnt by one on his hand.

    Anyhoo the truck looks really awesome!
     
  30. Vacformedhero

    Vacformedhero Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,427
    Brilliant progress , you know the body looks fantastic , in fact I think you should be able to separate the body from the chassis when not in use , that would look great hanging up, as if floating, lev units etc etc .....keep it up
     
  31. mofo77

    mofo77 Well-Known Member

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    this keeps gettin better and better:thumbsup
     
  32. kruleworld

    kruleworld Well-Known Member

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    looks good in primer (brings it all together). the red oxide gives it a sandcrawler look.
     
  33. Pocko

    Pocko Active Member

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    This is looking great, the use of the rubbish trucks was a stroke of genius!
     
  34. mung

    mung Active Member

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    Some work has been done on the cockpit of the truck.
    In fact the whole model has been painted and weathered but that will follow in a subsequent post as I haven't taken
    any photographs of it as yet.



    I made up a helmet for the 1/16 scale Bruder toys driver figure. It possibly a little big but that's what he's getting.



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    It was made in two halves joined down the middle by pressing a half dome shape into heated 1mm styrene.
    To heat the plastic I used my Bosch heat gun which is designed to strip paint among other things.
    It looks like a hairdryer but it puts out industrial grade heat. You would not want to mix up the two.
    I made a domed ended bit of broom stick and pressed that into a hole in a piece of wood that was slightly larger.
    You can see the stick, hole, pressed plastic and end result below.



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The two plastic domes were sawn off with a razor saw, sanded flat and joined with the usual methylene chloride solvent.
    A dremel was then used along with a sharp olfa blade to cut away the hole for the neck and face.
    I used a couple more presses of the 1mm plastic to make some side discs and added a strip of 0.5mm styrene down the join.
    I also added some pieces of closed cell foam as padding on the inner sides which also makes it stay on his head.

    Still needs a bit of sanding and then painting to finish.


    [​IMG]



    To cover up the rolled up sleeves molding on the drivers arms I used some heat shrink tubing, with a smaller piece
    as some sort of cuffs around his wrists.
    I also put a larger piece around his neck.
    You can see a bit of filler as yet un-sanded in the v neck of his shirt.
    A few Drops of thin super glue has been flowed into his arm joints to fix them in position.
    Eventually he will be painted to look more like he's wearing a jump suit with gloves.



    [​IMG]



    The chassis has been disassembled so that it could be painted with flat black.
    I always use a Rust guard epoxy style spray paint for any aluminium parts as it sticks very well without flaking off.
    A couple of lightish coats are sprayed on without any primer.
    It takes 24 hours to dry fully but a couple of extra days does no harm before reassembly with scratchy tools.
    Here is the chassis hanging up on a wire hook.



    [​IMG]





    On the shelf behind the chassis are a couple of my old spaceship models that were built many many years ago.

    More soon...
     
  35. kruleworld

    kruleworld Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    536
    nice work. interesting and rudimentary way to vacform!
     
  36. mung

    mung Active Member

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    Re: Toy bash original design RC Sci Fi truck ----COMPLETED----

    The model was masked up and sprayed with orange car paint from a spray can.
    The masking was reversed and the detail areas were sprayed with a "sandable" car primer which is
    a darker grey than the normal car primer.
    I'm not sure what the difference is, other than the shade of grey, as primer generally is usually easily sandable.


    I also masked up and sprayed some white primer markings on the sides and added a few old decals from
    some random model kits.


    The liquid latex masking (applied earlier in previous post) was peeled off leaving chipped paint revealing the
    original red primer and silver metal scrapes from the paint pen.


    After the paint has been allowed to dry for a at least a day ( 2 days or more is better) I start the application
    of "poo juice", a roughly five to one mix of methylated spirits ( alcohol) and Tamiya flat black mixed in a jar.
    Essentially this is a wash that is flowed onto the surface into all the vents, grooves, depressions, edges, lumps etc.
    Then metho dampened rag is used to wipe it off from the high spots leaving it in the low.
    The rag is wiped in the direction that grime would run and flow leaving grubby streaks.
    It is essential for this method to work that the underlying paint is not dissolved by alcohol, so any water based
    hobby paint such as Tamiya is not suitable.
    Acrylic car paints and primers are fine, and enamels such as Humbrol will work given sufficient time to dry.


    I have seen Randy Cooper on You tube demonstrating his technique using a water based wash on a wet model
    getting similar visual results.
    I find that for me that the methylated spirits based wash flows along edges better with a capillary action that is
    more effective than I have been able to get using a grime wash based on water.


    After the poo juice wash has dried, (it dries pretty fast) I then dry brush white students acrylic paint using a stiff
    flat oil paint brush onto all the raised spots and edges.
    The student acrylic is a cheap artists acrylic that is not as densely opaque as a quality artists acrylic so builds up
    slowly onto the models edges with a pleasing lightening of the underlying value.
    If you make a mistake the metho dampened rag will easily remove the white for another go.


    To people used to subtle pastel shaded weathering on 1/35 scale military models, the result to the eye may seem
    ludicrously over the top, but in my experience you really have to exaggerate the weathering for the camera to see any of it.


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    After looking at the photos I realise the chassis needs a bit of weathering to tone down all the colorful anodising
    on display.
    More than likely a good run on some dusty dirt tracks will naturally take care of that.


    Thanks for reading.
     
    Randy13, jkno, zookone and 5 others like this.
  37. tbody

    tbody Member

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    112
    Super cool project.
    Love it!
     
  38. Vacformedhero

    Vacformedhero Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,427
    How fast is she ? It looks brilliant , would you risk oil paint into the chassis and detailed parts , I'm no expert but it might add a little more depth....but it really looks brilliant, and also has inspired me to try something similar (without the rc ) to practice paint techniques
     
  39. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

    Trophy Points:
    3,660
    Brilliant! The weathering is fantastic! A+ :)
     
  40. Mike J.

    Mike J. Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    3,355
    That looks amazing!

    ....I would humbly suggest it needs a license plate :) Maybe a manufacturer's logo...
     
  41. armamentfactory

    armamentfactory Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    411
    Awesome build & superb paint work!
     
  42. zookone

    zookone Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    566
    It came out great! Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed watching your progress and seeing the final product!
     
  43. mofo77

    mofo77 Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    935
    great to see it finished.love the colours and the weathering:thumbsup
     
  44. kruleworld

    kruleworld Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    536
    the final result is really good. it's amazing how a touch of weathering can really bring a project to life.
     

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