TOS Enterprise lighting help

[Amused]

So I wasn't happy with the PL motors (too loud and one of the motors broke during a test fitting) or the weak PL navigation lights so I bought the Tenacontrols kit with motors, bussard lights, navigation and impulse lights.

What I want to do is I want to combine the TC kit with the PL kit so I can have the PL interior lighting along with the TC effects lighting.

Can this be done on one power cord through the supplied stand pole that comes with the kit? Is that possible?

Overall, how can I combine the kits? Or will I have to have two power cords coming out of the stand?

Thanks for your help!!!

 

[wannab]

I'd talk with Ralph a TC -- he'd steer you right.

 

[Amused]

OK, I'll try that. Anyone else have any idea? Please?

 

[gjjackson]

All you have to concerned with is the supply voltages of each circuit. If the voltages used are the same then you can wire them up to one supply, so long as the current capability is greater than what is required. I don't know the specifics of what you are using so I can't say much more. There are DC- to DC convertors than can reduce voltages from 12v down to about 3v.

 

[Amused]

OK, Ralph from TC told me that if I replace the 12v .09a PL power supply with a 12v 2.0a I can use the PL kit interior lighting with the TC kit plugged into one of the PL 12v plugs that was used for the PL nacelles. So I guess the only road block was the weak. 09a PL power supply.

Once the TC kit gets here later this week I'll string it all together and test it with the new PS.

As of now I'm undertaking the tedious task of soldering all the PL light strip connections because the supplied connectors are totally useless and unreliable.

 

[Amused]

OK, now another question. For opinions please. Light the middle windows on the secondary hull, or leave them dark like the prop?

Was there a reason they were always dark?

 

[alensatemybuick]

I think the middle windows were dark due to lack of access to those areas on the 11 footer, as they contained the "bullwark" for mountng the nacelle pylons. That or the M5 computer turned them off, haw haw! As for what to do on one's model, I guess it is a matter of personal choice. I like to think that "within universe", there is no reason why the windows must always be off.

 

[Amused]

Thank you! Now for another window question. For lighted windows I'm using the clear with multiple coats of dullcote on the backside. For dark windows is it best to use the black windows supplied by the kit? Or use the clear and black out the back? Which looks better? Also, for the square/rectangular/round lights on top of the saucer, should I use the white window pieces? How about the sensor domes in the middle the top and bottom of the saucer? White? Or dullcote clear?

 

[Amused]

Bump for advice.

 

[robn1]

That depends how you want the windows to look. The filming model had the blacked out windows just painted on. The lit windows were clear acrylic but it was frosted to diffuse the light, so they don't really look like clear lit windows would on a real ship. The black window inserts would be best for accuracy to the original, but clear blacked out from behind will be more realistic. It's just a matter of personal preference.