Thin Neck Thanksgiving- Luke Cave Found Parts Revealed!

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[My personal recommendation, unless you have many LC-785A;)] Anyone with a Casio LC-785A series is highly advised not to trim your vintage circuit board! Or you'll end up like me. Not until you solve the problem I'm facing once and for all. :rolleyes:

I can clearly see from the image that Angle R of the control box is disconnected. So I used the height of MoM box and the inner diameter of DaveP box to make a new box. Due to the shadow on the right side of the real control box, I can only vaguely see something, not sure if it really exists.


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Then I started building a new control box and made type 617 green acrylic in a local acrylic factory. :)
The circuit board is composed of multiple boards. It has a thickness of three boards, and the height of the bottom board is horizontal with the control box. So you still need something inside the control box to support the height of the board. Since the white resistance at the end belongs to the stack board, it should be in the center of the control box and the antique blue card.


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Okay, I admit the nightmare has come!:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:


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While the R-angle rupture has been achieved, it's clear this is different from the boxes in the identities touring exhibition I've seen from the Internet. As I have no more pictures to access!

So I really hope that if anyone happened to visit the identities tour exhibition and took a picture of corner R in the control box, you could share it with us! What exactly was added there and why was it higher than the circuit board?
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:unsure:And what do I see in the shadow of the control box? Is that a trace of glue? Or a board?:unsure:
:unsure:Did the thin walls of the red and green leds in the real control box really disappear? So how do we trim the circuit board? Although we know that the real control box is hand trimmed...... But every one of my trims is not happy..... All kinds of questions come again!

:)[My personal understanding] This is what I currently think the shape of the real circuit board is. Of course, I'd like to hear what others have to say about this.
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Poikilotherm I am still wrapping my head around the wire wrapping! wild stuff.... I always thought the fake board was just a cover for the obvious components underneath but this is much more complex and intuitive
:pWhen we actually do something, it's really hard! Persistence is victory!
I really appreciate what you said before! Other types of vintage casio calculators may come in handy [small detail repair work](y)
 
i have two shots here, from other threads on the RPF
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PrinceZip posted this pdf publicly after going to see the saber, not sure if theres much in there
 

Attachments

  • SW-Identities_-Luke-Hero-Note.pdf
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I can't tell you how exciting it is for this to finally be revealed!! (If you'll mind the pun) :)

So much has been learned about this prop since my last hero run (which only seems like yesterday!)...

The amount of work that has gone on behind the scenes on this subject is astronomical. MASSIVE props to BRRogers and Poikilotherm for their work on finding the board!

Bryan was kind enough to put me out of my misery! Having successfully whittled my list of possible candidates down to just a handful of Casio's (including the LC-785), he was kind enough to share it's ID in the hope that I might be able to get hold of one and develop an updated replica...

My own journey in discovering it's identity was a process of elimination. Having search through the various online calculator museums for internal images of calculators from the appropriate time period, it became apparent that Casio was the way to go:

Casio mc34.jpg


This image (Casio MC34) is the one that had me sold on Casio as the brand to look for.

From here, I drew up a list of ALL possible candidates, and then proceeded to eliminate them one by one, by finding images of the interiors where possible, or buying the ones that did not have images available...

Not only did the LC-785 NOT have a single image online showing it's PCB, it is ridiculously RARE! As you're all now going to discover for yourselves! :lol:

Anyway, a big THANK YOU to BRRogers for putting me out of my misery and letting me in on it's identity. It allowed me to find one, and work out the arrangement of the parts for myself:

Vintage Board 1.jpg

Vintage Board 2.jpg

Vintage Board 3.jpg


Poikilotherm has really gone to town on looking in to the finest of details on the PCB! Incredible work! :oops:

My own findings are very similar in regards to the arrangement of the pieces, but the wires that are laid in to the board, and the in-depth work on the soldering is fascinating stuff! :oops: And as for the internal, electronics... It just blows my mind what @Poikilothermhas accomplished with such a small space to work with!

Personally, I haven't explored this area in any great depth as it's not my area of expertise (at all!), and wasn't entirely sure it was even possible. :eek:

As for my next Hero (2023), and the current state of play on the reveal board... This is all drawn up and ready to order, believe it or not! The work on this was all done some time ago (late 2021), along with modifications to the control box. There is room/time to update the design further of course before it goes ahead, and looking forward to the discussions around what is now public information between now and then!

In order to work out the layout of the various pieces of the board, and before physically cutting up my vintage board, I cup up the board in photoshop and moved/rotated the pieces around to determine which bids were needed:

Comparison.jpg
BITS.jpg


These have been arranged in to a single board that will be printed to look something like this:

BOARD_3D.jpg


This can then be easily broken up and assembled, along with the other components, death star brass, etc...

I'll obviously go in to much more detail closer to the time... This isn't an advertisement/announcement for any future run. My time/attention is still focussed very much on my current Obi project, and will be for the foreseeable future.

Just very excited to share some of the work that's gone on behind the scenes and contribute to this discussion now that it's no longer under wraps!

Exciting times!

:)
 
I can't tell you how exciting it is for this to finally be revealed!! (If you'll mind the pun) :)

So much has been learned about this prop since my last hero run (which only seems like yesterday!)...

The amount of work that has gone on behind the scenes on this subject is astronomical. MASSIVE props to BRRogers and Poikilotherm for their work on finding the board!

Bryan was kind enough to put me out of my misery! Having successfully whittled my list of possible candidates down to just a handful of Casio's (including the LC-785), he was kind enough to share it's ID in the hope that I might be able to get hold of one and develop an updated replica...

My own journey in discovering it's identity was a process of elimination. Having search through the various online calculator museums for internal images of calculators from the appropriate time period, it became apparent that Casio was the way to go:

View attachment 1642416

This image (Casio MC34) is the one that had me sold on Casio as the brand to look for.

From here, I drew up a list of ALL possible candidates, and then proceeded to eliminate them one by one, by finding images of the interiors where possible, or buying the ones that did not have images available...

Not only did the LC-785 NOT have a single image online showing it's PCB, it is ridiculously RARE! As you're all now going to discover for yourselves! :lol:

Anyway, a big THANK YOU to BRRogers for putting me out of my misery and letting me in on it's identity. It allowed me to find one, and work out the arrangement of the parts for myself:

View attachment 1642420
View attachment 1642422
View attachment 1642435

Poikilotherm has really gone to town on looking in to the finest of details on the PCB! Incredible work! :oops:

My own findings are very similar in regards to the arrangement of the pieces, but the wires that are laid in to the board, and the in-depth work on the soldering is fascinating stuff! :oops: And as for the internal, electronics... It just blows my mind what @Poikilothermhas accomplished with such a small space to work with!

Personally, I haven't explored this area in any great depth as it's not my area of expertise (at all!), and wasn't entirely sure it was even possible. :eek:

As for my next Hero (2023), and the current state of play on the reveal board... This is all drawn up and ready to order, believe it or not! The work on this was all done some time ago (late 2021), along with modifications to the control box. There is room/time to update the design further of course before it goes ahead, and looking forward to the discussions around what is now public information between now and then!

In order to work out the layout of the various pieces of the board, and before physically cutting up my vintage board, I cup up the board in photoshop and moved/rotated the pieces around to determine which bids were needed:

View attachment 1642431View attachment 1642433

These have been arranged in to a single board that will be printed to look something like this:

View attachment 1642426

This can then be easily broken up and assembled, along with the other components, death star brass, etc...

I'll obviously go in to much more detail closer to the time... This isn't an advertisement/announcement for any future run. My time/attention is still focussed very much on my current Obi project, and will be for the foreseeable future.

Just very excited to share some of the work that's gone on behind the scenes and contribute to this discussion now that it's no longer under wraps!

Exciting times!

:)
this is art
 
Yep! There are quite a few close alternatives in the atomizer realm and some close dental thingys.

The atomizers are soldered together, thanks to teecrooz letting me know. I took a hacksaw to an atomizer and sectioned it to pop out the parts. I didn’t need to do this, but now I know the cross section and what’s inside
.
Jennifer Lawrence Oops GIF
 
So I have some extra parts and now redbutton is on his way to making one. With the stem from one and the bulb part from another. Please excuse the gore, atomizer collectors will hate me

I did not cut up a 152 by the way. Other than what is needed to convert it.


Pictured is my main one for now. Made from a 152. I used electronics screws from an old connector pack
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Can I just throw in a bone of contention... Or at least an area that I think might need a bit more investigation before outright deciding on the exact model...

I'm just wondering how the A/2 was arrived at, over the A/1 or A/3?

Is it just the solder mask colour? Obviously there is clearly some variation between the examples that have been found so far, but I'm wondering if these variations are typical of the specific boards, or if they could just be variations between individual batches, that could just as easily occur between two boards with the same number?

I'm just concerned that it may be a little early to say for certain which one was definitely used on the prop, and by extension, that the other two are close, but incorrect.

Currently, my newly drawn up replica is based on the LC-785 (A/3).

The traces on the A/3 I found match up to the prop perfectly, so I'm just wondering if the A/2 was chosen based on its colour?

These old reference photos are notoriously unreliable when it comes to determining colours too of course, as is apparent with the neck colour and the endless debate around that.

I have a vested interest obviously, but I am wondering if more examples need to be found before ruling out specific batch numbers?
 
So far just three types (1/2/3) have been found.
I imagine these were either processed in 3 different batches from a common factory or three different factories.

Besides the number being different the trace width and soldermask color are only very slightly different… I’d also venture to say that the quality of layer lamination is perhaps a little different between the board numbers … but without *more* reference of the original board inside I agree it will be difficult to gauge.
It won’t really effect your replica Dave, to the point of altering plans.

Based on the sample size Poikilotherm and I had seen we thought that generally speaking the #2 boards might have the closer soldermask color quality.

Of course un-definitively there is a possibility those qualities might vary from board to board in the same batch - but without seeing a broader sample size (which I’m sure we will now be working towards ;)) I personally wouldn’t claim it to be fact.
 
Here is my Devilbiss 215...i was able to mount my retainer into the center hole on my atomizer without removing the flange with a simple allen screw and no tapping at all. The air hole is on the side of the flange as Bryan stated up in the thread. This version has no hole in the front as opposed to the 152 model.

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Can I just throw in a bone of contention... Or at least an area that I think might need a bit more investigation before outright deciding on the exact model...

I'm just wondering how the A/2 was arrived at, over the A/1 or A/3?

Is it just the solder mask colour? Obviously there is clearly some variation between the examples that have been found so far, but I'm wondering if these variations are typical of the specific boards, or if they could just be variations between individual batches, that could just as easily occur between two boards with the same number?

I'm just concerned that it may be a little early to say for certain which one was definitely used on the prop, and by extension, that the other two are close, but incorrect.

Currently, my newly drawn up replica is based on the LC-785 (A/3).

The traces on the A/3 I found match up to the prop perfectly, so I'm just wondering if the A/2 was chosen based on its colour?

These old reference photos are notoriously unreliable when it comes to determining colours too of course, as is apparent with the neck colour and the endless debate around that.

I have a vested interest obviously, but I am wondering if more examples need to be found before ruling out specific batch numbers?

I have a total of 7 LC-785, including 3 785B, but I have been trimming and adjusting these boards over the past year, so these calculators did not come at the same time. So I couldn't put all the calculators together for a picture.

But what impressed me most was only the 785 A/2. Before I saw the 785 B, I didn't know that there was a difference in color in LC-785 plate.......

785 A/2 is a very distinctive color, at least in these calculators that I got. Of course, I have also seen the calculator used for too long caused the board oxidation, and even the color on the board faded to the gradual yellow-green state.......

But at least it's not the green color I've seen on A/1 and A/3........

If you have seen A picture of the Hero in a yellow wooden box, I think you will choose 785 A/2, and I also compared that picture.:rolleyes:

The grain on LC-785 A board is the same, except for color and resistance! I can provide you with some images to show you the colors on the 785 A/2 board, gradient green blue...... I don't know how to express this. :p

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Actually there may be a means to surmise the correct one:

Check out the alignment of the stamping for this 0•L

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Close to the right side and low… this follows the arcs seen in the painted symbol…. Creates reasoning for it as well such as the position of the L.
 
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