The Wand Company TOS Tricorder is coming!

[FANATICO]

…………..

In some applications the speaker ratings are different ….typically 8 Ohms are the norm with varied wattages…..but I’ve seen different Ohms…..What’s the ratings of the tric speaker?

Thx

 

[2vix]

In some applications the speaker ratings are different ….typically 8 Ohms are the norm with varied wattages…..but I’ve seen different Ohms…..What’s the ratings of the tric speaker?

I pulled this screenshot from buddies tear-down video:

8-ohms 2-watt

I need to remove mine and see if I can find a new home for it, or possibly replace it for a smaller one Where its located is the perfect spot to add the USBC port for my project.

 

[FANATICO]

Found this….. 24Pin FPC Cable Adapter Board 0.5mm Pitch Reverse Adapter Board Connector Module


I’m hopeful for the direction I’m heading……I haven’t totally thrown in the towel….every now and then I’m coming across something that makes me think Hmmmm that might work

I bought 4 of these to dik around with….the plan is to unsolder one of the boards P1 connector ….and solder to the P2 open spot of one of the boards so that there will be connectors both on P1 and P2 ….the board will essentially have 2 inputs and 1 output to the lcd…..the EBay seller didn’t sell both P1 and P2 populated with 2 connectors….hence unsoldering one of them.

There should be no input conflicts, imo …into the display since the Tricorder source 1, will be shut off while source 2 (TBD) is on. The key is not to have source 1 and 2 on at the same time.

 

[2vix]

Has anyone figured out how to keep the clock screen up? I keep my Tricorder on my desk plugged in, and get tired of having to push a button every 10 minutes to keep the clock visible.

I know this wont help, but Ive figured out a way to get this in my project. Adding a raspberry pi will give me the option of having my "screen-saver" be a live clock, and it can be customized to look however I want and stay on the screen until the word TRICORDER is perma-burned into the screen for eternity.

Steven,


Thanks for your email. You are not missing anything. However, it is a good suggestion that few peopler have made so we will be looking at how we can implement that functionality and roll it in to a patch update we are working on, if it isn't too risky.


Thx


Chris

Very cool of them to add this function in a future update. Maybe to avoid the worry of screen burn-in they can design a new screensaver that has the clock, date, and some other sensor info or whatever and have it change or auto-cycle through some stuff to avoid the same text being in the same spot for too long.

 

[asalaw]

I know this wont help, but Ive figured out a way to get this in my project. Adding a raspberry pi will give me the option of having my "screen-saver" be a live clock, and it can be customized to look however I want and stay on the screen until the word TRICORDER is perma-burned into the screen for eternity.

View attachment 1959232




Very cool of them to add this function in a future update. Maybe to avoid the worry of screen burn-in they can design a new screensaver that has the clock, date, and some other sensor info or whatever and have it change or auto-cycle through some stuff to avoid the same text being in the same spot for too long.

FWIW, for my fan film trailer I created still artwork for the tricorder screen and superimposed a running time code clock. Worked a treat.

 

[2vix]

FWIW, for my fan film trailer I created still artwork for the tricorder screen and superimposed a running time code clock. Worked a treat.

COOL is there a link so i can watch it?!

 

[FANATICO]

I know this wont help, but Ive figured out a way to get this in my project. Adding a raspberry pi will give me the option of having my "screen-saver" be a live clock, and it can be customized to look however I want and stay on the screen until the word TRICORDER is perma-burned into the screen for eternity.






Very cool of them to add this function in a future update. Maybe to avoid the worry of screen burn-in they can design a new screensaver that has the clock, date, and some other sensor info or whatever and have it change or auto-cycle through some stuff to avoid the same text being in the same spot for too long.

Hey you must have tapped into my wavelength!

I was about to ask if someone could provide a clear straight non reflective shot of the opening screen….

Spooky….hmmm

Thx

 

[2vix]

View attachment 1959231

Found this….. 24Pin FPC Cable Adapter Board 0.5mm Pitch Reverse Adapter Board Connector Module


I’m hopeful for the direction I’m heading……I haven’t totally thrown in the towel….every now and then I’m coming across something that makes me think Hmmmm that might work

I bought 4 of these to dik around with….the plan is to unsolder one of the boards P1 connector ….and solder to the P2 open spot of one of the boards so that there will be connectors both on P1 and P2 ….the board will essentially have 2 inputs and 1 output to the lcd…..the EBay seller didn’t sell both P1 and P2 populated with 2 connectors….hence unsoldering one of them.

There should be no input conflicts, imo …into the display since the Tricorder source 1, will be shut off while source 2 (TBD) is on. The key is not to have source 1 and 2 on at the same time.

Last week I looked into this same thing and thought about trying 3 of these to split things up: LINK

The problem is parallel RGB (or similar) buses are fast, so a passive “Y” or a mechanical switch tends to glitch or violate timing
Its doable, but complicated. Doubling the load or hot-switching lines causes skew, ringing, and unhappy panels. This is why I started looking at converting it to HDMI and back again, but this might work too: LINK

You'd have to build it yourself probably, but it can apparently switch between two RGB sources at pixel‑rate speeds.

I dunno......

 

[2vix]

Hey you must have tapped into my wavelength!

I was about to ask if someone could provide a clear straight non reflective shot of the opening screen….

Spooky….hmmm

Thx

I made that in MSpaint and its not the correct font FYI

 

[FANATICO]

I see the possible dilemma……with using a passive Y as per your info…

We wouldn’t have gone to the moon had we not experimented.

Btw I came across that adapter from newhaven (went to the website) and thought nahhhh.

I made that in MSpaint and its not the correct font FYI

I’ll use it for a placeholder until I could get an actual clear shot

Thx anyway….

 

[2vix]

I dont know enuf about this stuff yet, and maybe your idea will work, but i would worry about this:

 

[FANATICO]

Last week I looked into this same thing and thought about trying 3 of these to split things up: LINK
View attachment 1959237

The problem is parallel RGB (or similar) buses are fast, so a passive “Y” or a mechanical switch tends to glitch or violate timing
Its doable, but complicated. Doubling the load or hot-switching lines causes skew, ringing, and unhappy panels. This is why I started looking at converting it to HDMI and back again, but this might work too: LINK
View attachment 1959240

You'd have to build it yourself probably, but it can apparently switch between two RGB sources at pixel‑rate speeds.

I dunno......

View attachment 1959246

Two things pop out to me for that multiplexing device…..

1) LT1675 Performance, VS = ±5V……….. you’ll have to bump up the supplied voltage 3.7 V from the tric to meet the components threshold

2) the example used is for 2 displays being fed single individual Rgb lines…..

From the output of the Tric ARM LTDC…..your looking at using many of those devices….not even taking into account the amount of RGB lines outputting from your second source…besides the tric ARM…..or am I smoking a blunt?

 

[FANATICO]

Hopefully this isn’t a PITA, but can someone take a clear shot of the tric opening screen as straight and unreflective as possible or unless you have a link….and kindly post.

Thanks In Advance (TIA)