The Topknot Build. New photos of torso life cast build. 05/07/2015
- Thread starter AlphaTech686
- Start date
spgfx
New Member
Sorry if is question has already been asked but how did you get the reverse dimple texture on your bios ?
I'm working on a plasma caster and need to replicate this finish
Being a beginner at this I have not been able to figure it out and could use this finish on a lot of things.
Thank you so much in advance
I'm working on a plasma caster and need to replicate this finish
Being a beginner at this I have not been able to figure it out and could use this finish on a lot of things.
Thank you so much in advance
Last edited by a moderator:
Lowdmekon
Sr Member
Dremmel with a very small ball grinder. And a lot of time and patience.spgfx said:Sorry if is question has already been asked but how did you get the reverse dimple texture on your bios ?
I'm working on a plasma caster and need to replicate this finish
Being a beginner at this I have not been able to figure it out and could use this finish on a lot of things.
Thank you so much in advance
.avprcannon_02.jpg
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Thanks everyone. I'm hoping to get after the molding issue. The Priest is making me look like a lazy *******.
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Hey predatoj, sorry I haven't been on the lair for a while. Those are super sculpey. They were sculpted baked then molded in silicone and pour on urathane resin.predatoj said:
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Hey everyone,
I know it's been a while. I am actually in the middle of molding the head. I am doing it in smoothon epoxy. I will try to post some photos later today.
I know it's been a while. I am actually in the middle of molding the head. I am doing it in smoothon epoxy. I will try to post some photos later today.
AlphaTech686
Active Member
I can't believe it's been so long since I set this down. I'm always thinking about it but can't always get to it plus I was dreading the whole molding process.
The first thing I did was to drill a bunch of holes in this block of wood to place all the quills. Since they are all different sizes I wanted to get them back in their respective holes.
Then came the sucky part, building the walls with water based clay around the mouth. I had nightmares about molding the mouth but I finally jumped on it.
You can see the green tint from the PVA I sprayed on. I love PVA!
Next came the Smoothon Epoxacoat Red. This stuff is awesome. It is stiff enough not to sag or run but fluid enough to get into all the nooks and
crannies pretty easily.
I did 2 coats of the Red then moved onto to Smoothon Epoxamite 101 (fast). I will use the medium cure next time as I ended up having to mix a bunch of small batches because it would set up to fast. I started on the neck area first intending to build a wall so later I could just pour the mouth full. I did do that and it worked
great.
Here it is after I cleaned off the clay and dremeled the edges.
You can see I had very little touch up sculpting to do.
I made I little blunder that I noticed here. The area around the lower tusks should have been molded a little different as I believe if I didn't do 2 separate mold parts here it would probably have locked up on me. Shoot this thing may lock up on me anyway.
I guess we will all find out together. So here are the 2 pieces I had to do.
Here I drew the separation line for the next piece. I used a small knife and cut the line. I decided to try shims as I believe it is the way the pros do it. After doing
some research I found that coated playing cards are what some folks use. So far the seems to work great.
I would place the card in the cut line and mark the shape then pull the card out, cut it, and place it back in. I taped the seams.
This is all new to me but so far I like it. I guess those pros know a few things.
Once again you can see the green tint of the PVA and then onto the 2 red coats.
That's it for now. I hope to have some fiber glass photos up tomorrow. Thanks for checkin in.
The first thing I did was to drill a bunch of holes in this block of wood to place all the quills. Since they are all different sizes I wanted to get them back in their respective holes.
Then came the sucky part, building the walls with water based clay around the mouth. I had nightmares about molding the mouth but I finally jumped on it.
You can see the green tint from the PVA I sprayed on. I love PVA!
Next came the Smoothon Epoxacoat Red. This stuff is awesome. It is stiff enough not to sag or run but fluid enough to get into all the nooks and
crannies pretty easily.
I did 2 coats of the Red then moved onto to Smoothon Epoxamite 101 (fast). I will use the medium cure next time as I ended up having to mix a bunch of small batches because it would set up to fast. I started on the neck area first intending to build a wall so later I could just pour the mouth full. I did do that and it worked
great.
Here it is after I cleaned off the clay and dremeled the edges.
You can see I had very little touch up sculpting to do.
I made I little blunder that I noticed here. The area around the lower tusks should have been molded a little different as I believe if I didn't do 2 separate mold parts here it would probably have locked up on me. Shoot this thing may lock up on me anyway.
I guess we will all find out together. So here are the 2 pieces I had to do.
Here I drew the separation line for the next piece. I used a small knife and cut the line. I decided to try shims as I believe it is the way the pros do it. After doing
some research I found that coated playing cards are what some folks use. So far the seems to work great.
I would place the card in the cut line and mark the shape then pull the card out, cut it, and place it back in. I taped the seams.
This is all new to me but so far I like it. I guess those pros know a few things.
Once again you can see the green tint of the PVA and then onto the 2 red coats.
That's it for now. I hope to have some fiber glass photos up tomorrow. Thanks for checkin in.
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Here are a few update photos of the fiberglassing. This is 2 layers of 2oz. cloth. The 2oz. cloth gets into all the curved spaces much easier than the next cloth I will use which will be the 5oz. actually next comes a layer Free Form Air Epoxy Putty. ptgreek turned me on to this stuff. He tells me they use it in laminating all their molds at Immortal Masks. It does work great. On this application it will give me a smoother surface to lay up the final coats of fiberglass.
Predasaurus
New Member
That's very cool. How many molds are you planning on doing?
Eli
Eli
AlphaTech686
Active Member
So I'm waiting for my Free Form Air to get here. Thankfully Reynolds Advanced Materials is in Dallas so it usually only takes a day or 2 to get here. I decided because I have 2 layers of red and 2 layers of cloth on the edges I could remove the cards. Man they came off slick. I love PVA. The edges of the sculpt were nearly untouched. Nearly. I used a tool to push them down as they were spread the thickness of the card "shim".
The PVA leftovers. Have I said I love this stuff?
The PVA leftovers. Have I said I love this stuff?
AlphaTech686
Active Member
The Free Form air arrived at 6pm last night. I applied it immediately so I could do some fiber glassing this morning. I managed 2 coats before I had to get to work.
I will layup 2 more coats on the rim in the morning and move on.
Sorry I know this seems sort of boring but posting helps keep me moving forward. Thanks everyone for keeping up with this thing.
I will layup 2 more coats on the rim in the morning and move on.
Sorry I know this seems sort of boring but posting helps keep me moving forward. Thanks everyone for keeping up with this thing.
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