The Poké Ball: An Accurate and Functional Representation

[PrimoOptimoso]

Hey jm419 - I might be the very wrong (or very right) person to notice this since I don't know Pokemon at all. I came to this thread, though, because I love gadgety stuff and was interested to see the pokeball.

What I noticed is that in both the screencaps and the diagram of the anime, the lower shell's button cutout has a back to it, i.e. the bottom half of the button section overlaps another bit of black belting when closed. I'd think that the diehard fans would notice this more readily than the non-invisible hinge mechanism.

=0)

 

[Jm419]

That's true. It's a fairly simple thing to rectify, but it messes with the symmetry of the ball. I can fix it if people feel it'd be a good thing to fix, but in my preliminary renders, it adds a lot to the cost (material) and, because of the requisite thickness, ruins (IMO) the look of the bottom shell.

Instead of splitting the thickness between top and bottom, I added the necessary thickness to the top half so it would be less likely to break off.

 

[PrimoOptimoso]

That's true. It's a fairly simple thing to rectify, but it messes with the symmetry of the ball. I can fix it if people feel it'd be a good thing to fix, but in my preliminary renders, it adds a lot to the cost (material) and, because of the requisite thickness, ruins (IMO) the look of the bottom shell.

Instead of splitting the thickness between top and bottom, I added the necessary thickness to the top half so it would be less likely to break off.

Oh, I was just thinking you could add it as a thin slab behind the cutout, maybe a simple half-circle of a couple mil thickness, and a few mm larger than the cutout itself along the circumference - not big enough to get in the way of lower-half interior or anything and not likely to be torn out. Obviously it's your project =0) I think it looks awesome already, and like I said, I've never even seen an episode or played one of the games. All the (tiny bit of) pokemon I know is what has been told to me by my fiancee's 22-year-old brother.

 

[Jm419]

Oh, I was just thinking you could add it as a thin slab behind the cutout, maybe a simple half-circle of a couple mil thickness, and a few mm larger than the cutout itself along the circumference - not big enough to get in the way of lower-half interior or anything and not likely to be torn out. Obviously it's your project =0) I think it looks awesome already, and like I said, I've never even seen an episode or played one of the games. All the (tiny bit of) pokemon I know is what has been told to me by my fiancee's 22-year-old brother.

No, I appreciate the comment. I'll give it a shot at work tomorrow, but I have a self-imposed minimum thickness of .1 inch on this. It's supposed to be used after all, and if it gets dropped, it's supposed to survive.

I'll take a look tomorrow when I have the file in front of me. I can post a render and you can see what I mean.

 

[jaybible]

Very nice work!.. I remember the day blue/red came out..man i wasted so much time. I got nostalgic and bought black ..then emerald..now I have 646.. it only took about 14yrs...and im sure it will hit 1000 someday.

Anyway, back on subject...did u think of making each side in 2 pieces with a gap between, maybe for some EL tape lighting? You could have the other as a thin shell and an inner with a top lip and ribbing so they fit snug. And it will really bring down the cost and retain rigidity.. did u do your solid models in solidworks with PV render?

 

[Jm419]

That's right, it's in Solidworks. Fairly sure most of them weren't done PV, but that doesn't make much of a difference. Good eye, though.

As for your structure idea - that'd be fine, if there wasn't a thickness issue. It's not thickness for the sake of accuracy, but thickness for the sake of structural integrity. It's actually slightly thicker than the anime style ball, but I want the thing to survive a four foot drop if it occasionally gets knocked down - and something a mm thick wouldn't do as well. It's supposed to look and feel like a real ball, and with my self-imposed thickness limits, it should hold up just fine.

Thanks for the input, though - keep it coming!

 

[jaybible]

I work on solidworks everyday, its easy to spot

You'd be very surprised with the strength of shapeways Strong & Flexible plastic. I got some detailed parts with large surface areas with only 1.2mm wall thickness and it was very durable. If you want it to be really tough just give it a coat of epoxy resin (fibreglass resin)on the inside and it will be very solid. SFP is pretty porous so the resin penetrates quite well.

If you can get the cost right i'd be interesting in buying. You can just add on your fee in shapeways when you set up a shop, if you go down that road

 

[Jm419]

Well, as a fellow modeller, what would you recommend for thickness?

If we can reduce volume by 50%, cost becomes reasonable. Even more reduction is even better.

Do you think .05 inches is thick enough? It's a hollow sphere, but if you'd think it'd be ok, I'll print my set off and see. .05 inches would probably mean it'd only cost like $35 to print, which would make everyone's life better.

 

[jaybible]

0.1 inches (2.5mm) is actually very thick in a model that small. It doesn't sound like it or look it in a solid model. I personally think that a wall thickness of 1.5 would be plenty sinc you are dealing with a curve with no flat areas to weaken it. Shapeways has a min thickness of 0.7mm and with the WSF material it is also very flexible.

For example, i have a 40x60mm piece here which is 1 mm thick and i can bend it about 30 degrees, and probably more but i dont want to push my luck haha.. I'd have no problem throwing a round version of it off the wall and not getting damaged.

What i would suggest is start off with a 1mm wall thickness and add the thickness you need for the inner details.. so probably around 1.5mm in total at its thickest. Or make it all 1.5mm and subtract the internal shapes, since thats probably how you modelled it

I have been thicking about your hinge system too and another way of doing it which will be lighter and will hold it tight enough together to allow you to open it easy. Some actually suggested a simplified verion earlier, it was the half circle track design. But you are comfortable with your design then go for it


EDIT* I just notice you extrude boss the windows in yours. I think you should extrude cut them in the way. You save on material and i think recessed windows would look better.


If you want you could send me on a file of the basic one and i can design some other hinge systems and send it back to you. I really want to buy one of these so its gotta be perfect

 

[Jm419]

I'll try the thinner walls. It's a good way to slim down cost, but the balls will be very light when finished. Of course, we could always order them in stainless if it's thin enough.

I left the windows extruded up to add detail, and with them cut, it introduces some thirty two structural weaknesses into the ball - each corner is a high stress point. Still, I have an idea on how to add some detail to them and save on material. I'll work on that on Monday, once I get some more work done on a commission.

Shoot me a PM and we can discuss the hinges. This one is functional, if not 100% prototypical, but it should allow for repeated use. Is it clear how it's supposed to work to you?

I appreciate the help. It's good to have another modeller to bounce ideas off of.

 

[jaybible]

Stainless would be awesome! .. how much would that cost?


the 32 structural weaknesses sound stange.. did you put in a plastic material into the model? You could always add a fillet at all corners(0.5mm)..that should removal local stress areas. Im not sure how solidworks works out structual weaknesses but if it by standard FEA models they dont like sharp internal corners

I get the hinge idea, im just not sure how it moves. Is there a pivot point in the top section to all for the close arc?.. and also what are you using to keep it closed and also easy to open?.. sorry for all the analysing... i do it with everything haha

I'll shoot you a PM with some ideas... I think the main goal is to keep it simple,light and above all, durable for repeatable use. You have the durable bit down but it takes up a lot of internal space... think about the poke pokemon inside

 

[AlexBC]

Considering the "animagic" going on there with the opening, how about having a magnetic strip running around the lip of the ball. That way you can have it open and close securely without huge hinges.

 

[jaybible]

I know you want to keep the hinge hidden but you could recess it an blend the shape to make it look almost seemless.

Just an example of an awesome design even with a hinge.. and some inspiration

 

[Jm419]

Right, I've seen those - but do you see the issue? The hinge prevents the ball from closing flush all the way around. It has to pass through itself to close flush, otherwise you'd just have a tangent edge on the front face of it.

 

[Eric Sigh]

I'm really excited to see this thread getting more attention. I can't wait to see how everything turns out.

 

[electraflier]

These are gorgeous! Glad I stumbled on this even if it is 2 years late LOL!
M

 

[Jm419]

2 years? I wish I could've made these 2 years ago, lol. Where'd that number come from, anyway?

I hope to have an updated thickness, and therefore price, by about 4PM CST.

 

[Eric Sigh]

Soooo.... any news?

 

[gogetterjackie]

I feel like I've died and gone to heaven by stumbling upon this thread! As electraflier feared, I too thought this thread was 2 years old because I looked at your joined date, not the actual date of the thread :X I would love to see you bring my childhood to life

 

[Vicarrak]

Problem solving at its finest very impressive with such an iconic object!