The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

with only resin it's much stiffer than paper alone but still pretty flexible. once you start adding a layer or 2 (maybe more) of fiberglass cloth and/or mat it'll become very solid.

Much appreciated. It sounds like it's where it's supposed to be for the time being. I will most likely apply another layer.

Thanks again,
 
I don't use fiberglass anymore I just use urathane casting resin inside and outside my pieces, I don't even use bondo, I just slush 2 coats of resin inside and brush 3 outside do a little bit of sanding to hide the seam lines and paint.
 
I was looking at using the 1mm as a backing strip for the pieces. Gluing it to the back of the 2mm and gluing the 2mm pieces together at the edge. Some of the pieces will be heated and curved with others being scored and angled.

I was just wondering if anyone had ever used sintra before for a project like this? I'd be modding the pepakura down a little, but plan to keep as much of the detail as possible.

As for the gaps, I'll be using bondo to fill those and sand it down, as well as inside the piece to strengthen it. The glue will be a CA glue with accelerator, what I typically use for sintra.

So, will I be the first to do this? I plan on starting with a Boba Fett jetpack then moving to one of Fierfek's Havok Trooper helmets. Then, if all goes well, doing a full HD Mk VI Spartan Armor, including helmet.
I use Pepakura for 1mm, 2mm, 3mm and 6mm EVA foam, so I see no reason why you could not use it for sintra. Like you said, you would have to mod the pepakura to deal with the attributes of sintra.

I do not think you could get away with gluing sintra edges together like you can with foam, so depending on what you are building, in some cases it may be simpler to draw templates for the sintra instead of using a pep file for large, continuous pieces. The other thing you could probably do(I do not have a lot of experience working with plastic, so this is just me imagining working with it) is connect two parts together with a backing strip of sintra and then filling any gaps during your finish/paint process. I am assuming sintra is glued with plastic cement.
 
I don't use fiberglass anymore I just use urathane casting resin inside and outside my pieces, I don't even use bondo, I just slush 2 coats of resin inside and brush 3 outside do a little bit of sanding to hide the seam lines and paint.

Very cool i will have to look into that.

Well I just rechecked on my piece and it is now much much harder than earlier today. I think because its damn near in the 30s outside and lightly snowing that it's just going to take a long longer to dry.
 
Don't let it get wet if there are uncured spots on it, and ungortuantly thats a major downside to fiberglass resin if it becomes too cold it eill take forever to cure properly or when it has cured it will be very brittle.
 
Anyone have any good suggestions for getting rid of excess fiber glass cloth that has been applied to your pep file? I basically have a bunch of excess cloth that is hanging off the edges of my helmet. I've tried using my rotary tool but I'm guessing I need a different attachment. Maybe some sort of cutting attachment
 
Re: R2D2 help unfolding

Hi all, found a full r2d2 pep file on de web and i need some help unfolding ...http://www.4shared.com/get/7wkiIex6/R2D2_tamano_real.html

Hi,

the 3d model is already completely unfolded. You simply have to print it out.

I suggest changing the paper size to something larger than letter or A4 though, you could have the single pages printed out at a copy shop maybe on DIN A1 paper. Otherwise your R2 might look a little "patchy".

Please see posts in this thread for information about pepakura and how to use it.

In addition I recommend this thread here

http://www.therpf.com/f9/r2d2-budget-new-photos-up-129597/

or this one from instructables:

Full Size R2D2 on a budget

Looking at the time frame I´d say that you should have enough time to build a basic wooden R2 ;)

Michael
RPF staff
 
Anyone have any good suggestions for getting rid of excess fiber glass cloth that has been applied to your pep file? I basically have a bunch of excess cloth that is hanging off the edges of my helmet. I've tried using my rotary tool but I'm guessing I need a different attachment. Maybe some sort of cutting attachment
The reinforced cutoff wheels will make short work of something like that. A dust mask and *good* eye (or full-face, preferably!) protection are an absolute requirement. You may also need to buy the proper mandrel (Dremel part # 402) for them if your kit didn't come with one. Use the wheel to cut off as much excess material as you dare without actually damaging the helmet, and then finish up by hand sanding or filing the remainder off. Should work like a champ. :)
 
The reinforced cutoff wheels will make short work of something like that. A dust mask and *good* eye (or full-face, preferably!) protection are an absolute requirement. You may also need to buy the proper mandrel (Dremel part # 402) for them if your kit didn't come with one. Use the wheel to cut off as much excess material as you dare without actually damaging the helmet, and then finish up by hand sanding or filing the remainder off. Should work like a champ. :)

Much appreciated heading out now to pick it up
 
Found exactly what I needed at Harbor Freight for $5 for 5 different sized mini saw blades for my rotary tool... cut through the fiber glass like butter.

Thanks!
 
need help with pepakura scale!!
i am building dancingfool's iron pep but i don't know how to scale the armor the original pep size is 1.525000 for 6" thought but i am 5.6"

example: chest

hight 347mm
width 406mm
depth 197mm

i will appreciate your help too much guys i'm a bit lost here
 
Measure from armpit to armpit across the front of your chest, convert the inches to millimeters and put the number you get into the Width Factor in Pepakura Designer.
 
Measure from armpit to armpit across the front of your chest, convert the inches to millimeters and put the number you get into the Width Factor in Pepakura Designer.

thankss pepmaster
so number i've got for the chest (example 1.535836) i will have to use in all the files that is correct? or i will have to measure all the body??:behave
 
After searching both this site and google I still haven't been able to find an answer to this question so hopefully someone here can help. My question is about straps, and what stage to attach them. Is this something you would do before resining the mask or after putting on the bondo? Also and tips on what any of you would use for straps and how you would attach them would be great, thanks.
 
I do my strapping after everything and the aint has been done. Usually nylon webbing, 2 part epoxy and quick release buckles.
 
I was wondering if anyone had any armor pep files that resembles Frank Jaegar/Gray Fox from MGS1.
There is a awesome pep file of the helmet on the tamasoft pepakura gallery, there are no files yet for the armor a lot of people have just used padding. I've made a couple suits for Grey Fox with a padding method inbetween two zentai suits. It's a lot of work but excellent results.

@ Magneto- The only cutting machine that works with pepakura is the CraftROBO machines, there's a tutorial on how to run the machine over on the 405th. I've hear a few people testing Pep with Cricut and have not seen any results yet.
 
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