As promised.... some video!
The Orville PM-44 pistol build
- Thread starter JOATRASH FX
- Start date
Now that my printer has been sent in some much-needed fixes and a tuneup (the damn thing kept telling me there was no resin cartridge loaded and exhibiting other bug-like behavior), maybe I can actually get some work done on much-neglected projects.
In a somewhat miraculous turn, I actually put together a second PM-44! This one only has very simple electronics- an 'always purple' display and a blue LED that lights up when the trigger is pulled. No sound or animated lights. This one may, or may not, end up in the junkyard... haven't decided yet.
In a somewhat miraculous turn, I actually put together a second PM-44! This one only has very simple electronics- an 'always purple' display and a blue LED that lights up when the trigger is pulled. No sound or animated lights. This one may, or may not, end up in the junkyard... haven't decided yet.
Fresh from the replicator!
You've done great work on this prop.
You've done great work on this prop.
Updating this thread with info from the sale thread so it doesn't get lost/deleted:
Wiring diagram attached. Note: ONLY use terminals on the "long" side of both boards. The diagram is not a 1:1 image. Also, you might want to remove the programming pins from the Arduino (small board) to save space. Also, I've searched for ages (and wasted a lot of $ trying to find good wire and trying to understand gauge sizes, insulation and so on, but it seems I can't wrap my head around it. The wire I have supplied is OK, but delicate, since it's only got one solid core. If you have an old USB cable lying around, gutting that might be preferable.)
Note: the hollowed out areas of the buttons should be filled with epoxy or something. Also, some buttons have very shallow "indents" on the underside- for the small buttons this indicates they should be towards the front, and one of the two the larger buttons it indicates the foremost button. (If that makes any sense.)
Use 400+ grit so sand... lightly. You can use rougher on the "support nub" leftovers. Use a scalpel to carefully cut the remaining nubs off the rubber grips. You CAN sand the grips... even though they are rubberized. (No idea how it works... it just does, defying the laws of physics Ed!)
IF there is any resin residue anywhere, use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl / IPA) to clean.
I have supplied a M4 screw for the buttstock. Tap the hold SLOWLY and VERY carefully.
Glue with 2-part epoxy for best results. Use hot glue to isolate terminals in the boards once soldered. (I used epoxy, but hot glue works too.)
Note: the two square "guide nubs" on top of the muzzle need to be filed down. A tiiiiiny bit of shrinkage during printing stops them from lining up perfectly.
Hmm... I think those are the important bits. If anything is unclear, just ask. (Maybe ask in the build thread since that will not get deleted.)
Use some grease on the trigger. Seat the trigger with an "underbite" (sticks out more at the bottom). Also, when you glue the trigger assembly test, test and test the fit and movement. Then test some more. This is one of the more fiddly bits and it's easy to get it slightly misaligned, which might cause the trigger to stick.
Wiring diagram attached. Note: ONLY use terminals on the "long" side of both boards. The diagram is not a 1:1 image. Also, you might want to remove the programming pins from the Arduino (small board) to save space. Also, I've searched for ages (and wasted a lot of $ trying to find good wire and trying to understand gauge sizes, insulation and so on, but it seems I can't wrap my head around it. The wire I have supplied is OK, but delicate, since it's only got one solid core. If you have an old USB cable lying around, gutting that might be preferable.)
Note: the hollowed out areas of the buttons should be filled with epoxy or something. Also, some buttons have very shallow "indents" on the underside- for the small buttons this indicates they should be towards the front, and one of the two the larger buttons it indicates the foremost button. (If that makes any sense.)
Use 400+ grit so sand... lightly. You can use rougher on the "support nub" leftovers. Use a scalpel to carefully cut the remaining nubs off the rubber grips. You CAN sand the grips... even though they are rubberized. (No idea how it works... it just does, defying the laws of physics Ed!)
IF there is any resin residue anywhere, use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl / IPA) to clean.
I have supplied a M4 screw for the buttstock. Tap the hold SLOWLY and VERY carefully.
Glue with 2-part epoxy for best results. Use hot glue to isolate terminals in the boards once soldered. (I used epoxy, but hot glue works too.)
Note: the two square "guide nubs" on top of the muzzle need to be filed down. A tiiiiiny bit of shrinkage during printing stops them from lining up perfectly.
Hmm... I think those are the important bits. If anything is unclear, just ask. (Maybe ask in the build thread since that will not get deleted.)
Use some grease on the trigger. Seat the trigger with an "underbite" (sticks out more at the bottom). Also, when you glue the trigger assembly test, test and test the fit and movement. Then test some more. This is one of the more fiddly bits and it's easy to get it slightly misaligned, which might cause the trigger to stick.
"
"Mode" should be the forward large button (it's essentially a safety)
"Up" and "Down" should be the right and left tiny buttons (normally, they control the power level but when you're in "disco mode" the left one plays the Orville theme and the right one plays a random quote from the show. Note: to enter "disco mode", you need to hold the trigger depressed when you power it up (takes a few seconds). Once you hear the power on sound, you can release the trigger. Oh, and when you boot up.. give it a good few seconds to start. You'll probably hear a short bit of "speaker static" when you turn it on.
I put the power on button in the center. (You can change that if you want... and swap L/R too.)
I also suggest painting the insides around the LEDS and buttons black- partly to stop bleed-through. "
"Mode" should be the forward large button (it's essentially a safety)
"Up" and "Down" should be the right and left tiny buttons (normally, they control the power level but when you're in "disco mode" the left one plays the Orville theme and the right one plays a random quote from the show. Note: to enter "disco mode", you need to hold the trigger depressed when you power it up (takes a few seconds). Once you hear the power on sound, you can release the trigger. Oh, and when you boot up.. give it a good few seconds to start. You'll probably hear a short bit of "speaker static" when you turn it on.
I put the power on button in the center. (You can change that if you want... and swap L/R too.)
I also suggest painting the insides around the LEDS and buttons black- partly to stop bleed-through. "
Markus
Sr Member
Looks very nice - congratulations!
Just one suggestion (for future projects):
You can easily avoid the resistors R7-R10, if you connect the push buttons (S1-S4) to GND (instead of VCC), and declare the pins D2, D4, D7, D8 as "INPUT_PULLUP". Of course, in your code you then have to check for input == LOW (instead of HIGH).
This won't save you much money, but you don't have to spend any thoughts on where to place the four resistors on your PCB.
Just one suggestion (for future projects):
You can easily avoid the resistors R7-R10, if you connect the push buttons (S1-S4) to GND (instead of VCC), and declare the pins D2, D4, D7, D8 as "INPUT_PULLUP". Of course, in your code you then have to check for input == LOW (instead of HIGH).
This won't save you much money, but you don't have to spend any thoughts on where to place the four resistors on your PCB.
I know, it really does!
Ah, he just woke up from the stasis chamber and no has yet told him yet that propmakers have basically stopped using found parts!
Just kidding of course, no offense intended... I can kinda see the resemblance. The top of the barrel DOES look a bit like the handle of a steam iron!
I'll run it by the programmer and see what he says, thanks. I know he tried a variant without using the resistors, but something didn't allow it. May have had something to do with the sound board and how it plays back the samples- I don't remember as it's not my area... I'm a designer, not a coder damn it Jim!
Targets R Us
Active Member
Looks really good! I haven't gotten to the point of painting yet. What paints did you use?
-Jeff
-Jeff
Nah, looks OK. The top shrouds look REALLY bright in the show sometimes too, and metallics like these can be deceptive. (Don't forget to glue down the sides of the lower part of the grip so that you don't have that slight gap there. )
I know, it really does!
Ah, he just woke up from the stasis chamber and no has yet told him yet that propmakers have basically stopped using found parts!
Just kidding of course, no offense intended... I can kinda see the resemblance. The top of the barrel DOES look a bit like the handle of a steam iron!
I'll run it by the programmer and see what he says, thanks. I know he tried a variant without using the resistors, but something didn't allow it. May have had something to do with the sound board and how it plays back the samples- I don't remember as it's not my area... I'm a designer, not a coder damn it Jim!
You get it
When you make a prop in 3D, doesnt it help if you have at least one found part? That is assuming that the original isnt 100% CAD.
Duplicolor automotive laquer, I'll post the exact colours when I get a chance to hit up my garage.
Targets R Us
Active Member
Thanks, very much appreciated! I'll check my local auto store for them.
-Jeff
-Jeff
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