The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread

Laying the shield flat = horizontal, standing the shield up/bolted through the center hole = vertical

I painted mine horizontally on a turntable, spinning the shield at a constant speed while laying the paint down. Worked the best for me. Others have gotten better results painting vertically.
 
I painted my laying down on an old barstool. I was able to walk around it and spray the colors. I'm always hesitant in spraying vertically for the fear of inducing runs.
 
Do any of you using a steel sled encounter rusting if the stripped sled is left uncovered? I'm making two and stripped one last night and one today. I'm hoping to JB Weld on my t-nuts tonight or tomorrow night, then clear coat the back at the same time. I'm wondering whether I should tape up the front now to prevent rust (painting the blue in 2 days, red probably in a week) but risk residue (though I'm using low-residue tape), or leave it bare and tape it right before painting.

Any thoughts?

If there is tape residue, will acetone remove it?
 
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Strip it, clean it with acetone, then clear coat the back. When you're ready to attach your nuts, give those areas a light sanding. When you're ready to paint, use your stripping pad to add the brushed effect, which will also remove any rust spots
 
Thanks. I had already done some sanding for the brushed effect on one, but I'll save it on the other one until right before painting. I can always gently re-sand the first if any rust occurs. Thanks!
 
Rusting is definitely one of the downsides of the Sled builds. Not fighting the flash rust that forms in a day or two was one thing I loved about working on the aluminum shields. You gotta move fast with the steel saucers.

Oh, and do NOT use water to wet-sand a bare saucer shield. Unless yo get all the water off it will flash rust in an instant.


On a side note, if any of you need back brackets, I'm at it again in the Junkyard:)
 
"He's at it again!" :thumbsup

The rust was such a pain when I did the steel shield. High humidity and working outside near the beach didn't help.
The worst was cut the shield and the brackets, then let them sit. Even though I painted the bare metal edges had serious rust problems when I returned to the project.
 
I may make a demonstration video on how I paint my Shields, though if anyone is still interested, find my JY thread for commission work.
I'm also developing a custom shield display stand.
 
Interest will ebb as other Marvel productions are released but not truly wane for the next few years. That is unless one of the movies is really bad.
Please, If time supports you making it I'd like to see such a video.
 
For the sled shield, what dimensions are used for the center circle & star? I have Valor's star jpeg from the 2011 thread (here), but I'm not sure what size circle that is for. I've seen people mention 10" and 9 3/4"---in which does this star fit? And to use that template, should I just print it out on 11x15 paper and it's ready to go without any resizing?

Thanks again for the help!

EDIT----Nevermind...Valor wrote in the same post with the file that it was a 10" blue circle. I can't believe I missed it! :facepalm
 
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I may make a demonstration video on how I paint my Shields, though if anyone is still interested, find my JY thread for commission work.
I'm also developing a custom shield display stand.

Damn you .... I was hoping keep some of my money :)
 
Look at what happened to my shield over the weekend...:)

901371_10151522537027446_618116748_o.jpg


I had the pleasure of having Stan Lee sign the shield at Wizard World St. Louis. Here's a quick video that Wizard World put together. It shows him signing my shield...as well as me in my Iron Man costume! :D

Wizard World St. Louis - Day Two! - YouTube

Whoa! fantastic my friend!
actually his shield now is a very special piece!
 
It's been a while since I've been in the forum and I am so excited this thread has gotten new life again! I am going to have to post my attempt at a steel sled shield as well as a few mini shields I made for my nephews during Christmas
 
Is it necessary to wet sand before clear coating to ensure that the clear coat sticks? I've done the blue & will do the red tomorrow. Assuming the red turns out the way the blue did, it's going to be so damn pretty I'd love to minimize any unnecessary steps & chance for error. So, if the wet sanding isn't necessary for the clear coating, and if the red turns out nice and smooth, I'd love to avoid it if possible....
 
Wet sanding is done on the clear coat. It birngs the colors through and makes it pop more. I wouldn't wetsand on the actual paint unless there is damage to the color somewhere.
 
Finished with painting. The blue Duplicolor came out nice and smooth, but the red has some areas that are very finely rough to touch. Just finished an hour ago, so perhaps that will change over the next few hours (I didn't pay attention for roughness with the blue). Perhaps the rougher spots weren't as heavy? Too heavy? I know that others have experienced the rough spots....I just found it odd that it wasn't either uniformly rough or uniformly smooth.

The red was actually kind of odd---little 'strings' would show up after each coat. They could be wiped away or plucked off easily without messing up the paint. This is only my second time spray painting anything, so maybe it's normal, but I thought it was odd. Saw it with two different cans of red, but not the blue. Also shook like a madman for over a minute between each coat. Perhaps this is the feature that somehow leads to the roughness?

If it stays rough when fully dry, I'll try and buff the shields before I clear coat to see if I can smooth it all out. I've seen that for a lot of folks here, even just adding the clear coat helps with the texture, so I'm looking forward to that! So close to some awesomeness---I'm psyched!
 
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