The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread

Unfortunately the mistake I made was attaching my Valor Star to the paint job/clear coat rather than the shield itself so all it took was a corner snag for this to happen... it happened on a bigger scale on another corner as well.
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My initial intent was to glue the corners back down but when the corners came up so did parts of the gloss coat so in a moment of sadness and frustration I decided to start over
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I thought I had to use automotive stripper or aircraft stripper to get through the paint and gloss coat but in the end I used Citristripper paste.
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Apply generously via paintbrush

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The setting time says atleast 30 min or so but this particular paste will stay wet for up to 24hrs.. or so it says. So after applying it around 9pm I let it sit overnight and through work and when I got home around 3pm the next day the paste had done its work

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For the most part the paste was still wet and the coating & paint just melted off. I used a rubber type puddy knife to pull the remaining paint off.. any dry areas I just re applied the paste and let it sit for maybe 20 min or so

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After the paint globs were off I used Acetone to clean up the shields and shine it back up and so ultimately back to the beginning with a shiny blank. Hopefully this little addition helps you guys who are thinking / needing to start over with the paint job but are a bit skiddish about starting over.

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This makes me want to cry.

Are you going to paint the shield, glue the star, and then clear coat everything?
 
Been there done that. It'll be better this time. My advice is mask a small area where the star will attach. You want raw metal to glue the star to. Clear coAt the shield and star separate. Attach the star last.
 
Or, mask the area with the star to leave it metal on metal for the bonding, attach, and then clear coat on top of everything. If there's enough clearcoat, it may help prevent a snag from occurring as it'll but a protective 'dome' on the star and prevent things from getting under the star tips.
 
Or, mask the area with the star to leave it metal on metal for the bonding, attach, and then clear coat on top of everything. If there's enough clearcoat, it may help prevent a snag from occurring as it'll but a protective 'dome' on the star and prevent things from getting under the star tips.

I was thinking of attaching the star then masking and painting then clear coating everything. I want to be able to glue as close to the points as possible.

I haven't heard of any drawbacks to this method but if anyone knows why this is not preferable I would love to hear.
 
I've been out of the loop on this for a while but had to get back on it.

Last I talked, my intent was to extract the Duplicolor paint from the can and spray it via airbrish to determine if the Duplicolor can itself was the problem with the poor spray you get from it.

Extracting the paint is easy to do, but you have to give it proper "de-gass" time with frequent stirring before you can use it.

First, I used the paint out of my airbrush on various pressure settings and was dissapointed to see that I still got the same spattering and inconsistant coverage with opaque blotches just like it gives you out of the can.
Of course I was discouraged but at least I ruled out a problem with the atomization of the can.

I set the Duplicolor stuff aside and decided to try out the Testors brand "Candy Apple Red" and "Clear Blue" to see how it measures up.
The Testors paint, unlike the Duplicolor, went on evenly without a problem and also did not turn opaque if you went too heavy with it.
The problem with the Testors paint is A) It's enamel - so it takes ten years to dry and B) It still does not have the same authentic looking anodized luster that the Duplicolor paint has (if you can get it to work right that is!)

Here is a test I did with the Testors paint. It turned out OK, but I was still obsessed with getting the Duplicolor paint to work since I feel it had a more authentic anodized finish:

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You can still see the brushed metal grain benieth the paint, which is what you want, but the Testors paint really didn't give you that shine streak I wanted - it slightly dulled the metallic finish benieth, despite going on even and smooth.

I still could not get out of my head how much I wanted the Duplicolor paint to work. It plagued my thoughts.
While I was in the bathroom doing my business (of all places) I had a jolt of inspiration hit me and started to go all "Spock" on the matter and get logical:
If the problem with the Duplicolor Paint was NOT the atomization from the can, then perhaps the problem was with the paint itself.
The one an only thing I could do to remedy this, without asking Duplicolor to reformulate their paint, was to add lacquer thinner to the extracted paint.
I thought that perhaps the reason the paint was coming out of the can AND my airbrush uneven and opaque in some areas was perhaps because the paint was not thinned enough.

My hopes were not up a whole lot, so I did not really measure how much thinner I poured into the paint can - I think It was about 30% extra.
After some mixing, I put the paint in my airbrush and took a piece of scrap alluminum for my test.
The results genuinly surprised me and I got an instant rush of excitement.
Not only did the paint spray on even and smooth with NO spattering, but it actually RETAINED its translucency as I applied more coats.
This is of course contrary to using the paint as-is out of the Duplicolor can - the more coats you put on, the more opaque and darker color the paint gets.
I was delighted to see that the metal grain was still visible benieth the paint and still had a nice luster despite having a few coats put on.

Now I wanted to try this out on the shield itself.
I poured almost all I had left of the newly thinned Duplicolor paint into my full-size spray gun (the airbrush would not cut it for this job).
The shield itself was secured onto a wood block, thanks to the small hole at the center of the shield and then placed on a "lazy susan" so I could spin the shield as I sprayed.
This trick is key.
Spinning the shield as you spray gives you a more even coat and you run less a risk of overspraying some areas.

I spun the shield and hit it with an even spray. The paint came out of the gun beautifully and from the moment I saw it hitting the spinning shield I could see it was giving me that look I had been dreaming about.

I wasn't used to the sheer power and spray range of the full size spray gun since I mostly use my small airbrush, so I DID go a little heavy on the outer ring, but like I said, the extra thinned paint seems to stay translucent. The trade off here is that a thinner "mist" coat will have your painted surface actually feeling like the bare metal surface, whereas going to thick will have it feeling like paint.
This is something I will remedy my next attempt.

Keep in mind, both shields shown below will be stripped and repainted again using my refined painting process, but this should give you an idea of how well this works.
Again I want to stress that thinning out the Duplicolor paint and spraying it out of a full size spray gun seems to get this paint to do what it's supposed to do.

Here is my result.
The Duplicolor on the left and the Testors on the right.
I feel an overwhelming sense of relief I was able to get this to work.
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Hooray!!! That's awesome news. I personally never had much r=trouble with the Duplicolor. But I agree, the translucency of it is worth trying to get to work. Great ingenuity!!!
 
I'm about a week away from repainting my shield... I was all set to use the Testors, but now I really want to give the Duplicolor another chance!
 
That color looks great!!!! I def want to buy one of the shields...also that Robo helmet looks MIGHTY great! LOL
 
I have three Shields total right now - two are mine and one is for s client.
Once I've really perfected my painting process, I can take more commissions to paint these.
 
Finally got around to painting yesterday

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Went with the Dupli-Color straight from the can in one wet coat rather than several lighter coats
 
I did experiment using Krylon Satin clear.
Looked very nice. The Duplicolor, when fully cured, is pretty solid, not convinced a clear coat is needed.
 
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