Plokman
Active Member
Hi all,
Well it seemed like months, anyway I have been building. Nothing but Epoxy, Xact-O and wood, good thing I found some stuff to create! Ok joke out of the way moving right along, I am at long last (Seriously I have no idea why I am just now getting to this stage, six months you'd think you'd get done quicker.) putting the finishing touches on my first wand I plan to sell. The wand is Oak, Occamy Egg Shell core and will have a faux Ivory Handle.
I am trying a odd technique for the Ivory, I hope it pans out but I got to see if Ground Bonemeal mixed in Resin will make a realistic Ivory. Incase that doesn't pan out any advice to get a realistic looking Ivory with Resin? Also anyone else have the problem of resin even if you make sure the ratio is exact coming out rubbery or sticky, I may still be new to slow set Epoxy but I was sure that I'd get the hang of it by now I mean I've done two projects with my dad both of his have come out great but every time I mix I get soft set or goopy sticky residue what am I doing wrong here it's Art N' Glow!!
I know why the Polyurethane hates me stuff is sensitive to water like a fat man (or if you'd like me to be PC on it a large man that eats well) in an Illinois summer, but come one Epoxy 1-1 should not be this hard to get right even for a log bump like me. But I digress.
The main thing I wanted to ask here is based off another of my crazy ideas to make my own pigments and special dyes for resin, but I am going to be steping up my game after my Ivory is set and finalized in shape (It's a wand handle blank I made here, so I am gonna work the details and shape out after casting) I am going to do a wash weathering. Now since Ivory tends to turn a redish color as it ages I planned two washes for it one is the basic black wash, paint in water dabbed on with a brush or dunking we all know this method. Now the other was is to be a rusty red and I had the harebrained idea to make actual rust dust for resin use, would there be any danger to using a mix of paint, water, and real rust to do my Rust wash?
You see I have no worries if it's sealed in resin, once inside and mixed correctly it would be sealed in the resin no Oxidation furtherance though I don't think that is a problem nor any dangers of rust harming someone if they somehow get it in their blood (Domestic Rust no tetnus). But with all prio contact with the dust has shown me it is still aggressive and drys things out like nothing else, skin, play-doh even PVA glue it sucks moisture in like a water blackhole. I am saving my money for Comiccon Cape fourth year running and Biggest yet with Ash Ketchum, Jason Lee Scott, Zack Taylor, Aisha Campbell and Zordon of freaking Eltar!!!!!
But I want to have the wand finished by then to show a friend of mine a fellow Prop Maker who has tipped me off on certain beginner skills and a guy I respect a lot, so I need a way to make my Rust wash with only what I got which is white paint, black paint and Rust dust. What say you guys any advice on the matters at hand? And it's good to be back.
Well it seemed like months, anyway I have been building. Nothing but Epoxy, Xact-O and wood, good thing I found some stuff to create! Ok joke out of the way moving right along, I am at long last (Seriously I have no idea why I am just now getting to this stage, six months you'd think you'd get done quicker.) putting the finishing touches on my first wand I plan to sell. The wand is Oak, Occamy Egg Shell core and will have a faux Ivory Handle.
I am trying a odd technique for the Ivory, I hope it pans out but I got to see if Ground Bonemeal mixed in Resin will make a realistic Ivory. Incase that doesn't pan out any advice to get a realistic looking Ivory with Resin? Also anyone else have the problem of resin even if you make sure the ratio is exact coming out rubbery or sticky, I may still be new to slow set Epoxy but I was sure that I'd get the hang of it by now I mean I've done two projects with my dad both of his have come out great but every time I mix I get soft set or goopy sticky residue what am I doing wrong here it's Art N' Glow!!
I know why the Polyurethane hates me stuff is sensitive to water like a fat man (or if you'd like me to be PC on it a large man that eats well) in an Illinois summer, but come one Epoxy 1-1 should not be this hard to get right even for a log bump like me. But I digress.
The main thing I wanted to ask here is based off another of my crazy ideas to make my own pigments and special dyes for resin, but I am going to be steping up my game after my Ivory is set and finalized in shape (It's a wand handle blank I made here, so I am gonna work the details and shape out after casting) I am going to do a wash weathering. Now since Ivory tends to turn a redish color as it ages I planned two washes for it one is the basic black wash, paint in water dabbed on with a brush or dunking we all know this method. Now the other was is to be a rusty red and I had the harebrained idea to make actual rust dust for resin use, would there be any danger to using a mix of paint, water, and real rust to do my Rust wash?
You see I have no worries if it's sealed in resin, once inside and mixed correctly it would be sealed in the resin no Oxidation furtherance though I don't think that is a problem nor any dangers of rust harming someone if they somehow get it in their blood (Domestic Rust no tetnus). But with all prio contact with the dust has shown me it is still aggressive and drys things out like nothing else, skin, play-doh even PVA glue it sucks moisture in like a water blackhole. I am saving my money for Comiccon Cape fourth year running and Biggest yet with Ash Ketchum, Jason Lee Scott, Zack Taylor, Aisha Campbell and Zordon of freaking Eltar!!!!!
But I want to have the wand finished by then to show a friend of mine a fellow Prop Maker who has tipped me off on certain beginner skills and a guy I respect a lot, so I need a way to make my Rust wash with only what I got which is white paint, black paint and Rust dust. What say you guys any advice on the matters at hand? And it's good to be back.
