Terminator 60 inch Studio Scale Flying Hunter Killer RESPRAYING CHROME

mikmik

New Member
Hey All,

For those of you which had seen my previous post about the paint damaged Terminator 60 inch Flying Hunter Killer I purchased and received, well I've finally taken the next step in what needs to be done in rectifying the look of this very expensive grey elephant model.

I asked for feedback on what members here would do, and with most saying that they'd repair/repaint the model, I agreed.
Unfortunately Electro Chroming wasn't an option as no one within my state had the equipment wide enough to accommodate the model, so the next best option was to take it down to a car automotive resprayer. Well unfortunately the cost was going to be around $2000 dollars so that option became financially unviable, but spraying the model myself seemed the cheapest option since most of the quoted $2000 was labour.

The paint I've decided to use is "Virtual Chrome" made by an Australian company called DNA.
Their Virtual Chrome is used on several sponsored cars and looks effective (well as best as you can get without Electro Plating Chrome).
I did contact the company with regards to possibly getting a sponsor agreement between ourselves so they could use the model & pictures for promotional advertising but they declined, so I absorbed the $500 dollar cost for the Virtual Chrome which certainly appears to give a good Chrome look on a smooth flat surface (lets hope I didn't go wrong here since not all of the Hunter Killer is nice and flat)!
If you want to visit the companies website and see pictures on what Virtual Chrome has been used on then go to this link:
DNA® – Custom Paints & Finishes

I've posted a few pictures of how extensive the paint damage was on the model.
Thanks to all the forum members which helped give me ideas on how best to sort my huge dilemma out, especially from a financial perspective.

My battle so far, is that it has taken me 2 weeks to get to this point which is stripping the old damaged paint from the rear wing of the Hunter Killer.
I figured this would be the best place to start since the wing is the smallest piece on the model (1 mtr long) and I really wanted something to practice on.
Lets just say that I hold no airbrushing, spray painting or modelling experience but im ready to learn to get the best result I can, which is why the wing will be my test before painting the full body.

Stripping the damaged dull silver paint off the Hunter Killer is going to take a while, because the model is enormous, it's going to take at least 4 to 8 weeks.
I've been using 'oven off' but im just not getting the results other people get, leaving it either 30 minutes or 3 hours, still has the same results.
Very time consuming with plenty of rubbing/wet sand paper needed to get the original damaged paint off.
If anyone has any other idea's im open to suggestions especially since it will save me hours if not days!

Last week I finished the rear wing which is now smooth and ready, I'll be experimenting with a Spray Gun so I can learn techniques, results of different air pressure and how to achieve the best possible finish before I attack the Hunter Killers rear wing.

For those who want to see a true HCG Studio Scale 60" Chrome Flying Hunter Killer stayed tuned, I haven't herd/seen anyone else attempting a project like this from the x25 Hunter Killers which were produced for HCG.

Cheers,
 
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I'd have gone with the weathered look. I'd be too frightened to attempt to respray that.

Good luck - hope it works out.
 
Glad to see that you have taken that hard 1st step mate and started to stip it back. I remember reading your 1st posting on this when you were asking for advice and eagerly waiting to see you have a crack at it.

Good luck with it, take your time and take heaps of pics along the way ;)
 
I've used Laquer Thinner (available at automotive paint places, or possibly "Bunnings")
and removed paint quickly off an old resin model.

It's powerful stuff, and you don't want to leave it on the model for more
than a few seconds as it may start to attack (melt!!) the plastic, or resin.

If you want to try some, just soak the corner of a small rag and wipe the
model quickly in an area that isn't as noticable to people.

Also .. use in a well-ventilated area !!!


Anyway, good to see you starting on this project Mike ...
 
It occurs to me that, to remove the old paint, may not be a bad idea if
you can get or rent a sand blasting shot machine. These machines are used to clean engines in automotive repair shops, and also to clean building facades.

I really don't know how it works but, surely will be a very fast way.

Good luck with your project and I hope you get a great finish. :thumbsup

Rafa
 
What a fantastic project. I would love the opportunity to do something like that.

I've had luck with Alclad II spray on chrome.

The trick is to get a perfect gloss black undercoating, and mist it on there with high pressure air. The Alclad is a lacquer, so I used an enamel for the base coat (Rustoleum high gloss spray can). For some reason a hard enamel undercoating made the chrome much brighter. Be sure to let it dry for about 3 days before applying the chrome.

Also, you need to have a nearly dust free environment with the spray or the smallest dust particle will show up like Mt. Everest. Also the basecoat must be completely smooth, so I suggest you wet sand and wet sand until the surface of the model is like glass.

Please forgive the hijack but here's how the sprays turn out if you're obsessively careful with dust.

Forgot to mention, if you can hang the model while spraying, it allows you to put the base coat on all at once so you won't have to worry about overspray falling on dried paint later when you spray the other side, and dulling the gloss.

nek_naboo_08.jpg
 
DUDE NO, NOT 30 MINUTES!

Try leaving the easy-off on for more like THREE minutes.

If you leave it much more than five minutes, many paints start to harden again.

Of course, it may just be a resistant acrylic or whatever. But anything more than five minutes will be too long with many paints. That could be the problem.
 
REL, That picture is awesome....thanks for sharing!!

I have had alot of success using car break fluid to remove paint of my models, works better than some of the paint strippers they sell at hobby shops. You dab it on and rub it around for a few minutes and then blast it off with a garden hose with water and clean cloth.
 
Just be careful with that brake fluid. I thought it was safe, but it all depends on what resin was used to make the casts, as it CAN eat the plastic. I ruined a very expensive helmet with that stuff.
 
Hey All,

Thanks to all those who have posted suggestions and comments, I did want to put more pictures and further progress this weekend but with tempratures and humidity been very high where I live unfortinately have ment I couldn't do any priming of coats of paint ont he rear wing.
But stay tuned, in 2 weeks I have 3 weeks off work over X-Mas so progress shall be made!

To reply to some of the above comments, I've written all my answers below:

"Barking Dragon" - Thanks for your luck as it certainly seems more of a challange then I imagined. I'll be sure to include plenty of pictures (both good and bad) of how I go with the biggest project I have EVER undertaken. As for using Brake Fluid, well I've stayed away from it because I certainly haven't wanted the model to be eaten or melted away by anything strong. Thanks for the suggestion, but I have considered it.

"Grant Da Modeler" - Welcome back to my forum as I do appreciate your feedback and suggestions, I did purchase some Laquer Thinner but haven't had the chance of testing it but once I do I'll be sure to let everyone know how it went. Im just keeping my fingers crossed that it works.

"Moska" - Thanks for the suggestion of sand blasting, I did give it some thought a while back but I feel the resin would sustain harsher scratching then using wet sand paper. I could be wrong but I'll see how I go with the Laquer Thinner first as the last thing I need is to remove anymore detail then needs to be. Cheers.

"REL" - Hey REL, firstly thanks for your comments and believe me then I say this, I'd rather give this project to a professional such as yourself but since you don't live no where near me, I guess I'll just have to do it myself.

Secondly, im going to have to ban you from my thread because im watching your 'Defiant' thread with great anticipation, im one of the guys which is stalking you in getting a model of your fantastic work !!!! Keep it up and I look forward to seeing a final product.

I have received very detailed instruction from the manufacturers of 'Virtual Chrome' advising I leave basecoats and other layers to dry for more then 48 hours plus. I just hope I can pull it off with the spray gun and that no dust gathers on the model. I will be spray gunning it in the garage inside a make shift spray booth I made, but then again, dust gets in everywhere.
Don't suppose you have a solution for keeping it dusk free? Have you invested a dusk killer im unaware?

"Nwerke" - Good to see you visiting my page again, with regards to your advise on Oven Off, I have to tell you that I have tried 5 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 1 hours, 2 hours and even 3 hours and I just don't get a better result no matter what I do with any time.
Im not sure what paint they used originally on the model but im certainly seeing multiple layers come off, but it's hard as buggery and difficult to remove.
I just hope the Laquer Thinner works because anything I do to remove paint just seems to kill me.


Once again, thanks to all that have replied and viewed my thread here, I hope you all visit back soon.

Cheers, Mike
 
Honestly, I think lacquer thinners are stronger on the resin than brake fluid, so definitely do no let it soak on there for too long.

A shame it is so big, otherwise you could have submerged it in Gastrol Purple Power.
 
Hey All,

It's been a while since my last post so I thought now is as good as ever, the largest part of the Hunter Killer I have done is the rear wing.
The rear wing has been stripped of all it's previous damaged paint/primer, I had then primed the wing and used 800-1200 sand paper to get a smooth finish on the wing (see attached picture).

The wing took extremely long to strip because I was using 'Oven off' to remove the paint, but it was proving that Oven off just wasn't doing to job as quickly or as I wanted, so after "Too Much Garlic" suggested to use lacquer thinner I thought what have I got to lose.
Since that day I purchased some lacquer thinner liquid and tried it on the main body of the Hunter Killer and it has totally helped !!!!

Lacquer thinner has increased the speed of me stripping the model dramatically so thanks heaps for the best suggestion.

What I have noticed is that their seems to be 3 layers of paint on the model which is why it's taking a little longer to remove those layers but it's still better then using oven off.

I've attached a picture of a semi stripped body of the Flying Hunter Killer, it does break my heart seeing it in such a primative state but I hope the final chrome product will be worth the work.

Mike
 
HA, that is so awesome. I am actually building a paper version of the flying HK right now and this helps a lot thanks for those pics!
 
:eek this thing is huge. 60 inches, I coudn't imagine how big it is!

Thanks for sharing your progress too Mike ,this is a very nice piece, good to learn from your progress.
 
Hey Guys,

Sorry to all those which have been checking back on the progress of my project to strip and repray my 60" Flying Hunter Killer into a sparkling Chrome Hunter Killer.........

Unfortinately a little over a month ago, I was hit by a car whilst cycling to work, so as you all can imagine im still healing which mean's that my project is on hold until I can bend over and start lifting objects.
Who would have thought getting hit side on by a car would change my life so much, hopefully I'll be back onto the project soon so everyone that's interest, hang in there, I will be back on the job as soon as I get my movement back.

And those which have just viewed it, yes, this beast is huge........
 
Sorry to hear about the accident Mik, I hope you heal up quickly.

Say, you're in Adelaide right? Maybe one day we can meet up and talk shop? I have a studio scale Galactica on the bench and that HK looks mighty nice. Show me yours and I'll...er...show you mine.:lol

Cheers, Mike
 
Hey LastBattlestar,

I most certainly am in Adelaide, give me time to heal and work on the HK and we can most certainly meet up and chat.

Im very curious to see your studio scale Galactica....... that's one Battlestar I must see!
As for the Hunter Killer, it's defiantely the size which impresses, but once it's repainted im going to have a hard time finding a display home for it.

Mike
 
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