Surface prepping sculpted foam?

If you're planning on casting the finished piece, it wouldn't really matter if the joint compound was slightly fragile, would it?
As for acrylic mediums, another brand available in the US is Windsor Newton. I believe its more expensive than the Liquitex brand, though.
 
It shouldnt but if for some reason your silicone grabs on a little too tight or use dont use a release agent you might end up ripping the joint compound right off the original. With proper prep it shouldnt be an issue but for a few extra bucks it might be worth it to some. My personal issue was the hardness of JC. I just didnt like working with it and found it took too long to cure in thick coats. There is also so much more water in the mix that if you put it on too thick you get cracks and shrink. Acrylic compound is made to build up like that so you dont have those issues.
 
If you're planning on casting the finished piece, it wouldn't really matter if the joint compound was slightly fragile, would it?

i keep all my master sculpts, they tend to get knocked about a bit (lack of space) so anything that is a bit more resilient to handling and storage would be better, for me anyway.

thanks for the links guys.

-z
 
Another coating you can use on Pink Foam - Urethane casting resin!

Here's a shield I've been working on:

Foam sculpt & MDF:
4698461142_0194d49200_z.jpg


Resin:
4739991693_da386dcf95_z.jpg


Final:
4897747339_437037774f_z.jpg


It required some filler and sanding after the fact, but the final coat is extremely tough. Since discovering it, this is my new preferred method for working with poly foam.
 
Why not polyester resin - the stuff you use with fiberglass? I've gone through gallons upon gallons of the stuff and it will put a nice shell over the foam sculpt and it will not eat the foam. I sculpted and fabricated an entire suit of Clone Trooper armor that way....

MobileMe Gallery
 
Why not polyester resin - the stuff you use with fiberglass? I've gone through gallons upon gallons of the stuff and it will put a nice shell over the foam sculpt and it will not eat the foam. I sculpted and fabricated an entire suit of Clone Trooper armor that way....

MobileMe Gallery
Because he's using insulation foam, which is probably polystyrene, which looks like this when you apply polyester resin:

resinfoam.jog
resinfoam.jpg


Yuck! :lol


The little spot in the right corner is common two-part epoxy, which does not attack the foam.
 
You have been vague as to what you are trying to make. As always, I will say that a picture helps more than words. The desired final result will help to choose your path.


Polyurethane resin will not react with the foam and will give a hard shell. It will also fill in any fine detail, and if you get it thick enough to fill the little bubbles (multiple coats) you will need to sand it smooth, and may loose some of the original shape.


Here is the favored clonesix method: give it a coat of vaseline and make a plaster mold. No need to worry about undercuts. Just a plaster (stone) mold. If there are undercuts, you will need to dig out the foam.

Now that you have a plaster mold, let dry. The surface will be rough from the foam. Scrape smooth (as best only) the surface to rid any high spots, sand if desired. Once again, the mold must be dry, give it a week or two in the sun.

Once dry, give it several coats of lacquer, sand and a few more coats. Once sealed, spray several coats of PVA. Laminate fiber glass into the mold, and when fully cured remove from mold. If there is a lot of detail, or undercuts, break mold.

Now you have a rough copy of the original, and you can putty and sand as necessary.

Naturally, this two-step process seems more difficult than if you just coated the foam and molded away, but not so. Either way, you will spend time smothing out the shape. It is just easier to clean up a ridged surface than a soft one.


For better results, use urethane foam instead of polystyrene foam for your patterns. It will not melt when primered and surfaced.
 
Hey I also have a question. I'm using a different type of foam that is not very dense. What can I buy for cheap that will make my foam more solid, with minimal cracking?
 
Because he's using insulation foam, which is probably polystyrene, which looks like this when you apply polyester resin:

resinfoam.jog
resinfoam.jpg


Yuck! :lol


The little spot in the right corner is common two-part epoxy, which does not attack the foam.

pilot is correct, its extruded polystyrene, here is a pic of this stuff used from a model railroad site,
 
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