started my under wire mask armature last night,(pix to come)

[BANE]

last i started my under mask wire armature for my (bane's) bio lid, the tutorial uratz has on the boards, well i'm using that , i must say the armature is huge , almost full pred head size. anyways, i started about 5 - 6 o'clock last night, and stopped for the night about thirty minutes ago. well the wire frame is pretty much done, looks pretty good to me, since it's my first attempt at anything predator (yautja) related that is of some scale and scope. when i get some pictures, i'll post up in here. the only thing different from uratz under mask armeture, i'm not using the gloss shipping tape, i found some knitting mesh in the craft section of wal-mart, and i'm going to use that as the outer skin for the armature. the knitting mesh, is a cheap find less than 5 bux for the package, think the package held 8 or 10 sheets, the mesh itself is white, very flexible. and looks great molded and strapped to the wire. i will take pix of what i have so far sometime tomorrow, and probably have pics by monday. and i'll post more pics as i fill the inside, and as well wrap it with plaster cloth. but that will come in while, do the fact i tore a tendon in left foot and out of commision for a couple weeks,

the armature i started last night was put together with stuff i already had lying around the house.

fence/starpping wire

gorilla duct tape (we're talking 200 mile an hour tape ) lol

the knitting mesh sheets, swipe them from the girl friend,lol she'll flip when she sees what i used it for lmmfao!

plires (to crimp and bend the wire

trash bag ties, and alittle time and effort. anyways, i'll get the pix i promised of the work in progress, hopefully sometime tomorrow, pleae bear with me.

 

[BANE]

the wire armature is covered and ready for plaster cloth.

the wal-mart near me was out of gorilla tape so i used florescent orange duct tape.
i used this tape over the knitting mesh, then once that was done i put the clear packing tape on, then doodled ban's bio outline on the armature. as i stated i hope to have pix up some time torrow of the wip and the finished orange pred bio armature. uratz, thanks again for the tutorial. it turned out awesome, .

i do hope to get the plaster cloth in the next weeks or so, so i can move to the next step/phase of a sculpt. later preds.

 

[BANE]

okay, the pix are on their way!

 

[BANE]

okay here are the pix i promised! it's just a wire undermask tamplate, the plaster cloth to come shortly!


parts i used, to get started, zip ties, knitting sheets, fence wire , orange duct tape not shown yet, and clear page tape not shown yet.

the wire bending template, made from old video cabinet, with tracing of pred mask for outline, with small nails outlining the
tracing as to bend wire to form.

tr

right side of armature, partially covered in the knitting sheets

down shot of partially covered armature

left side

down shot of completed armature

couple more to go.....

finished and covered in orange duct tape wire armature

......basic idea and thanks go to URATZ for the insiprational tut, thanks man.

 

[Dahdtoudi]

Looking good!!! nice to have pix to go along with the text...

 

[BANE]

ugly chair, but confortable as heel!lmmfao! hope you predas and predettes like, and use URATZ'S wire undermask armature tut, as i have done, it was fun , took at most four hours to put together. if you look closely you can see my predator bio doodle on the orange duct tape. the really shinny layer is the packing/shipping tape. hopefully in next week or so, i can get this big tangerine covered in plaster cloth, i'll take pix when i get it plastered.

i didnt go the flat top head , i went more of the upper sloped head like pred2, anyways, a tut put out by URATZ, and a project worth doing. it was fun, and relaxing .

 

[BANE]

sorry it took me so long to get the pix up. thanx , i apprciate it.

 

[Uratz]

Wassup Bane

Your stuff is coming along pretty good. Glad my idea is useful to someone, like the wheel idea - keeps improving. I like the shape you've achieved in the orange tape picture, the shape is closer to the mask than mine Keep posting man. We all can learn from each other

 

[BANE]

kool and thanx . i learned alot from your tut, so i thought i'd share my experience with the group.

cant wait to start on the plaster, and mainly a first time sculpt. looking forward to it all. thanks again, and keep the tuts coming.

 

[one and only]

This is bloody awesome!
I can't wait to see it done up.

 

[BANE]

thank you preds, all this is making me want to do more. i'll try to.

 

[YAUJA WARRIOR]

how ya gona make that ya can wear it?

 

[Uratz]

Bane

A quick tip, Just when I was on my final stages of sculpt I realized some big things taht were uneven and not symmetrical and I realized that my plaster underform was a little warped in the back and tilted down to the right side.

Make sure your plaster form is even where you need it to be before u sculpt this can save u some headache

Always check it for balance esp in the wire form and the plaster form. Otherwise very hard to correct the mistake later on.

Goodluck!

 

[mumbaki]

looks good..keep it up!!!!

 

[BANE]

YAUJA WARRIOR Posted Yesterday, 04:51 PM
how ya gona make that ya can wear it?

not sure yet. thanks for checking it out. honestly, i haven't gone that far in my mind yet , i call this phase one, phase two should be the plaster cloth. again not sure yet! i'd appreciate any insught you may offer. i would love the help and advice


Uratz Posted Yesterday, 10:06 PM
Bane

A quick tip, Just when I was on my final stages of sculpt I realized some big things taht were uneven and not symmetrical and I realized that my plaster underform was a little warped in the back and tilted down to the right side.

Make sure your plaster form is even where you need it to be before u sculpt this can save u some headache

Always check it for balance esp in the wire form and the plaster form. Otherwise very hard to correct the mistake later on.

Goodluck!


thank you, again for the tut, and the information , i'll try to keep this thing as semetrical as i can great tips to follow in this project. again thanks. more tips and know how the merrier, i'd love the help and advice


mumbaki Posted Yesterday, 10:15 PM
looks good..keep it up!!!!

thanks, i'll do my best, and i'll keep it updated from time to time. after the undermask and first sculpt are to my liking, i'll try your gauntlet tut , it looks like alot of fun.




any help and or advice is more than welcome. and appreciated.

 

[YAUJA WARRIOR]

hmm
would it work if u put magnets under /inside ur head? and also in the helmet
how about a kind of ski mask? and u make the helmet on it? u wont c it ( has to be dark color black would b the best for the ski mask ) and then the dreads go over everything? just an idea
hope this helps

 

[BANE]

i'll take that in mind, good idea.


off topic abit, thought i'd post another one of my projects in this thread, as to to not waste space. any ways, i made myself a plaster scuplting head armature last night, yes i'll get pix of it as soon as i can i hope that is,lol! anyways, my plaster of paris head armature.

i took the basic steps for the duct tape dummy head armature, and went a another way with it, i used an old halloween prop ripped off head which was becoming ratting, hell, i've had it for nearly 18 years, so time to use it for something else, there will be no pics of the ripped off head, but you can see it in the above pics, the one that has freddy's mask on it, well back to the tut thingy.

parts list:

1- 17 1/2 year old rubber ripped off head prop ( was 80.00 back in the day)(worthless now)

10 pounds of plaster of paris the cheap stuff from wal-mart crafts section ( around 8 to 10 dollars)

and old freddy mask for some support ( n/a on price cant remember was a cheapo mask.)

pvc pipe stand, pvc pipe (2 - 3 dollars at lowes for 10 foot section, more than enough pipe)

pvc t- sections, and pvc 90 degree elbow joints(5- 10 dollars at lowes)

pollyfill, was cheap came out of old head, i used this as a strengthening device, as the plaster was thicking up i added the polly fill making sure it got completely covered in plaster.9 no price)

when i get a pic of the plastered head and pvc stand/armature you'll see it was pretty easy, the pvc pipe was used originally for a star wars prop ( jawa) but the years have played with the costume, so i took the skeleton of that prop and used it for the head armature, i think the pvc pipe is either 1 1/2 inch or 2 inch think it's 2 inch pipe and joints. mix the plaster kinda thickbut alittle runny, pour the plaster into layers using th pollyfill as you go, make sure each layer is still wet and plyable so you canget the polly to matte, i continued pouring the plaster until i had a decent amoutn, say from crown of head to a partial neck . this tor johnson looking thing weighs around 20 - 30 pounds, but that was directly after i pulled the rubber head and mask from the plaster, as i type this it is drying, if plaster is hot to touch it's still curing, if the plaster is cold and damp, it has set up and the water is trying to escape, which is a great thing , touch the mold no cold or dampness, you're ready to slay it up for your sculpts. sometime this coming weekend i'll get pics of it up for you guys and ladies. NO PIX YET BUT THEY ARE COMING, PLEASE BE PAITENT.lol!

 

[BANE]

sorry it took me so long to reply to the last post i made in this thread but here's the plaster head i poured from the rubber ripped off head, and the stand i am using to hold the head, i'll have to measure out the stand, but i'll do that in a day or two. so here's the pix........

another angle......

another angle.....

 

[BANE]

so now i have a sculpting jig, maybe i can start doing something on a pred head.


i'll get measurement on the pvc stand, the overall smaller lengths . the pipe is 1 1/4 inches, as well the elbows, and t sections and + section

a ten foot pvc pipe 1 1/4 inches in diameter maybe 3- 4 dollars at local hardware store lowes, home depot, places like those. other parts you will need to ake the stand are, 6 1 1/4 inch elbows, 2 1 1/4 inch T joints, 1 1 1/4 inch + .

for the bottom of the stand ( the base) mine is a little over a foot square, for stability make the base abit larger, to your needs, okay on the base you will have 2 long peices these will be front and back, 4 smaller peices these will fit into your T joints, which will hold your uprights (legs) on this base section 4 90% elbow joints are used, my legs on the stand are 22" inches long, they are to be placed into the 2 remaining 90% elbow joints, then two smaller lengths from these 2 elbows , connect these 2 peices to the + joint, this will become the section that holds the neck peice of pvc. the length i used 18 inches long, you may want to go shorter or longer depending your work area. dont place the neck length in the + joint until you have poured your duct tape dummy head with plaster, as the plaster begins to stiffen around the dome of the head and brow region, now place the neck length pipe here, continue to pour your plaster until it the neck pipe has become a rim one peice object, let the plaster firm up abit, if plaster is giving off heat, that means it is drying, let the pour firm up about two hours before you take the duct tape off of it, it will be hot and heavy from the water in the plaster, once firm place the neck pipe into the + joint. let stand for acouple days to let the plaster harden further and dry out, when the plaster is cool to the touch it is cured just fine. now it's ready for your clay and designs then.


i'll get the smaller measurements of pipe and i'll post those in here to make it alittle more understandable. i do appologize for not measuring before hand.


JUNE 27TH 2008 UPDATE, here are the measurments i promised to put up in a day or two, remember these measurements are your pre elbow applications and plastering in the neck peice.

front and back peices 6 1/2" inches, back 6 1/2" inches, sides 2 1/2" inches x 4 peices, legs 14 1/2" inches X 2 peices,
nech is 14 " inches before you make you duct tape dummy plaster head. shoulders 2 1/2 " inches x 2 peices. connect these peices into the elbows, pvc glue maybe used to solidify the stand, but not needed, not if you tap the pipe peices snuggly into the joints.

 

[japgoth]

Looking Good!!! can't wait too see more progress pics of this