Star Wars Mask Paint Help

[GunplaDaddy]

Hey guys I'm hoping I can get answers here, I'm not getting legitimate answers else where. I have a mask coming in on Monday for my Original Star Wars Cosplay, Luckly the designer has sanded it down, and all I need to do it is paint it, top 2 colors im interested in coloring is Black Matte for the Main face surface, and a Light grey gloss color for the "Teeth", the Maker told me he used FMA PLA. I also do have a Airbrushing system. My Main Question is what BRAND paint can I use to make my Mask complete? I was told Cans can work, Regular paint can work, so im getting Mix help which is great but I need guidance on the paint and a process. So if anyone can help me out there I'm just looking for a brand.

Also the Mask is from Star Wars Visions on Disney+ my own version of that Mask.

 

[JGattonII]

A couple of disclaimers:
1. I'm no expert, but have painted a few things along the way.
2. I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to as "regular" paint. For example, "Regular" makes me think of $1 bottles of general purpose acrylic paint.

Regardless, I'd imagine the reason you're getting mixed responses on rattle cans working vs. "regular" paint working is because both of them could be technically true. In other words, there is no single, ultimate, objective answer to your general question. The difference, however, would likely come down to personal media preference, skill and/or desired outcome for the finished product.

With all that said, you've specifically asked for a "brand" of paint. While this too is up to personal preference, I'll approach this answer from the brands/methods I would personally use if I had this item sitting unfinished on my workbench. In short, I'd likely opt for the rattle can approach.

1. Pre-Primer Coat (optional): Rustoleum Adhesion Promoter
2. 1st Primer Coat: Rustoleum Self-Etching Primer
3. Next Primer Coat(s): Rustoleum Filler Primer (to help fill-in 3D printed layer lines). Once built up, I often finish with Rustoleum Sandable Primer to highlight residual low spots.
4. Base Coats: Krylon Fusion All-in-One Black and Grey
5. Top Coat: Krylon Fusion All-in-One Clear coat

Truthfully, however, any selection from above may be substituted at-will (and/or at-random) for whatever brand of paint that's available, closest to me and/or sitting on my shelf at the time of painting.

I truly hope this helps - but again, this is only how *I* would likely approach it. Others, wishing for more detail and/or control may opt for airbrushing instead - using something like Vallejo, Army Painter, Humbrol, etc.-brand paints.

 

[Vagabond Elf]

Honestly, with a 3d print you want to start with filler primer. The print is full of microscopic layer lines, like wood grain, and they aren't very visible right now but they'll really jump out when you start painting. Once the primer is on you're just painting primer so whatever brand you like best is probably fine.

I'd skip the self-etching step JGattonll recommends - this isn't metal, you don't need to promote adhesion.

Rustoleum is also what I use, and if you're American or Canadian it's what I'd recommend. Keep in mind that brands vary from country to country so the next time you ask this, it would be helpful to specify where you are.

Rustoleum rattlecans are of course designed to work together, so if you don't want to use your airbrush you might as well stay on brand. Mixing brands can sometimes have odd results. I personally don't have any experience with Krylon on PLA, but Rustoleum or Tremclad have been fine for me in the past.

 

[chibobber]

Good advice by all. I would add one more critical step. Allow plenty of dry/cure time between primer, paint and clear coat. I let at least 3 days for cure between each step. This is necessary with Rustoleum and Krylon depending on humidity and temperature. Without sufficient dry time you can wrinkle the coat that you apply next. Ask me how I know

 

[GunplaDaddy]

This is actually great help, also im American, Californian. it sounds like in general everyone uses SPRAY cans over Airbrushing props and armor, I usually build Gundams and other model kits so my Airbrush has been my main source for painting because it gives me a nice steady hand to work with.

 

[division 6]

For models and props I use automotive primer (Dupli-Color)

Clean it, prime it, look to see what needs fixing, fill, sand, repeat till it gets to where you want it then add your colors.
If you are using Tamiya, Mr, etc they will be fine with Dupli-Color since it is also lacquer based.

 

[Vagabond Elf]

This is actually great help, also im American, Californian. it sounds like in general everyone uses SPRAY cans over Airbrushing props and armor, I usually build Gundams and other model kits so my Airbrush has been my main source for painting because it gives me a nice steady hand to work with.

I use spray bombs for big things because I've never learnt to airbrush. I use brushes for little things. Some folks in the R2-D2 community use proper paint sprayers.

If you would prefer to use your airbrush, I'd grab a can of filler primer (either Rustoleum or Dupli-Colour, as suits your fancy, though I think Rustoleum is cheaper (at least up here north of 49), and then do some tests on scrap plastic so you can see how your airbrush paint reacts to the primer. Off the top of my head I can't think of any reason why it would be a problem, but rule zero of using paint you've never used before is "test it on some scrap and see what happens," because sometimes you'll get weird chemical reactions.