Done / Completed Star Wars Ep7: REY'S BLASTER kit - now upgraded!

Tried that. Ended up making more of a mess. Hmmm.... Maybe sandpaper on a dowel will do the trick. If not, I may need to purchase some spare parts from you @JOATRASH FX

Did you use a drill that is just slightly larger than the holes? (0.5mm larger should do the trick) you want just enough to remove the little "hang" on one side, which is a consequence of printing overhangs. Remind me in a bit and can get you another barrel if needed. I usually don't charge for replacement parts, (within reason, providing they aren't huge print jobs) beyond asking for shipping.

Don't be afraid to use rough sandpaper (100-120 grit) on PLA. It's pretty tough. You could also use a round metal file.
 
Here's a w-i-p of one of my kits where I'm using a special airbrush technique to fake the look of brushed and weathered aluminum:
attachment.php
 
Hey Joe
I always meant to ask you, what printer do you use. Also, interested in a kit :thumbsup
 
What are the screws everyone is using for this build? This is my fourth Rey blaster build and the screws I bought
and used for the other three are too small for this build. The holes on this kit are huge. Keep in mind I'm in the US
so I'm hoping for a non metric option. Thanks.
 
Thank you that helps. Use the same size for the grips?

As I understand it, yes. But I don't know how close the imperial ones are. You may have to hand-turn a drill bit in the screw holes to get them in there. There's about 0.7mm of a wall to shave off if needed. (I used a powered screwdriver and "melted" screws in place on the first one I built, but I don't recommend doing that unless you have some experience with printed PLA plastic.)
 
Ok, last question.... I hope. Is there a trick to getting the handle on? For the life of me I can not get it to
snap into place. I can't glue it or get the screws in because it just won't snap in.

*UPDATE*
I solved the problem by cutting out the rectangle, filing the sides, and just glueing it to the main body inside to the top and bottom parts.
 
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JOATRASH FX,

This is a great kit. Now that you have sold a few, any chance you will design and print a run of stands
for your version??? I would love a stand to display my blaster, but with so many versions floating around
no one is willing to make a stand.


Here are mine all finished.

IMG_0193.JPGIMG_0192.JPG




IMG_0192.JPG


IMG_0193.JPG
 
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*UPDATE*
I solved the problem by cutting out the rectangle, filing the sides, and just glueing it to the main body inside to the top and bottom parts.

Sorry, I was out all day yesterday. The insert was actually designed to be VERY snug to make it more stable. Ideally (for those still building) you just carefully trim the sides of the gripframe until it slots in. (I would mask off just enough of the body and frame so that you can glue plastic-on-plastic with acrylic cement, then use a couple small screws from the inside for extra strength if you're going to be handling it a lot.)


JOATRASH FX,

This is a great kit. Now that you have sold a few, any chance you will design and print a run of stands
for your version??? I would love a stand to display my blaster, but with so many versions floating around
no one is willing to make a stand.

Here are mine all finished.

View attachment 624692View attachment 624690
Nice!

Nice build, Unfated!

I think a stand would be a great idea! I would be in for one.

Let me look into it. In my experience, printing stands usually isn't cost effective. They take just as long (or longer) than the kits do because they need to have a stable base (=big block to print) which means that they still cost a lot. One way might be to make the base thin and completely hollow for people to fill with clay or something heavy when they assemble it.


By the way everyone: NEW PAINTING TIP

After finding out that Alclad is now illegal here (due to improper chemical labeling) I had to give Vallejo's "metal" series a try. THEY ARE FANTASTIC... possibly even BETTER than Alclad. The surface is (from my initial tests) just as shiny, they are water-based and DO NOT RUB OFF nearly as much. Vallejo also makes a clear-coat specifically for the metal paints but I haven't tried it yet.

I did an "aluminum" test on my Star Lord gear the exact same way as with alclad (a gloss black lightly sanded with 400 grit before applying CHROME paint to it) and it looks fantastic. That method, using chrome instead of the aluminum shade actually looks more realistic.
 
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Let me look into it. In my experience, printing stands usually isn't cost effective. They take just as long (or longer) than the kits do because they need to have a stable base (=big block to print) which means that they still cost a lot. One way might be to make the base thin and completely hollow for people to fill with clay or something heavy when they assemble it.


I guess you could also design it and sell the files for us to print. It would not fit any other Rey blaster but yours so I don't see
anyone stealing it? There is one on Thngverse that I like but is designed and sized to fit Lilkill's 3D blaster. I don't like the little
plaque thing sticking up, but like the stand itself. The base could also be flat instead of with the little squares.

04c5042800b5d1b31301eefb7312e81a_preview_featured.jpgc246fbbf00ac9211a33e328e83115b53_preview_featured.jpg
 
How did you guys get rid of the print lines?

Travelling atm but it's basically like preppoing a resin kit. Here's a quick tut:

1 wetsand with 120 to 280 grit paper.
2 spray filler-primer
3 wetsand with 320-400 grit
4 black gloss undercoat
5 Mist whatever silver/chrome paint you prefer.

Protip: for a brushed/weathered aluminum look, sand the gloss black unevenly and lightly before applying silver.
 
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