6/19/2017 Cutting the Chair Panels and SAFETY
Hi All,
Wanted to give another update, and also give a couple pointers on safety that I like to use above and beyond just wearing safety glasses with some specific tools.
Anyway, I started by cutting the side panels that will go under the arms eventually.
I started by tracing out the pattern once by measurement. Then I cut what I could on the table saw because I like how straight it is. The band saw I have has been really hard to control lately, so I decided I'd cut the curves on the scroll saw instead (God bless Harbor Freight). Finally, I had four panels that I was satisfied with. Two things to note:
1. The panels are on opposite sides of the chair, so it is important that you cut them as mirrored pieces with regards to the smooth side of the masonite. There should be two mirrored pairs. Two pairs because...
2. The outer panels need to be a little bit (a Sharpie marker line's width, to be ~exact~) bigger to accommodate the fabric that will be wrapped around the inner panel when the thing is upholstered, so it is advisable to not just cut all four at once.
It is worth mentioning that the creative process is not without error, and so I feel it necessary to share a picture of the piece I messed up on and subsequently broke in half out of frustration. Remember, if you get frustrated in the process of making something, don't rush to fix it or hurry up and speed through things. That is when I find myself most likely to make mistakes that either make my project worse or cause me bodily harm. Which leads me into my next topic...
Soapbox Time
SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY
I have a few points about safety I just want to make, because I do believe that basic shop safety is an important part of being a good maker.
1. PPE (Personal Protective Equipment): I always wear safety glasses when using power tools. It is such a simple thing to do, and I don't even realize I'm wearing them anymore. Also, when I'm operating loud equipment (most big saws, compressors, even hammering, etc.) I make it a point to ALWAYS wear hearing protection. Cheap earmuffs are like $3 and do a decent enough job, and not having your ears ringing after a day of work is well worth it. Also, make sure you wear a mask when sanding. This is very important if you don't want to ruin your lungs with wood dust. Some woods (cedar, pressure treated, some others) are bad for you in all sorts of scienc-ey ways above and beyond just putting dust in your lungs. For example, some (not all) pressure treated lumber has chemicals like arsenic in it, which I shouldn;t have to telly ou why you wouldn't want to inhale.
2. Photographing your work: I post plenty of "in progress" pictures of material in the process of being sawn, drilled, etc. I am sorry to ruin the magic but, if you notice, the blade is always stopped when I take these pictures. Yes, that means they're a bit staged. But it does a good job illustrating the process and allows me to not have to worry about the spinning blades near my body.
3. Safety Glasses. Again. All the time. Always. No excuses.
4. Table Saw Extras:
a) Make sure the legs are leveled. A wobbly table saw is a recipe for disaster.
b) Stand aside of the work. Especially when using the fence, never stand directly in the path of the blade. My dad has a big scar on his belly where a 2x4 he was cutting bound up and shot back into him. Bad idea. Don't be stupid.
c) Use a push stick! This applies to more than just table saws. But, if you're about to make a cut and stop and think "wow if my hand slips I won't have it attached to me anymore", you should be using a push stick to move the work and keep your body away from the blade. Just because you have a blade guard doesn't mean you're immune to this tip.
d) Watch your feet. One of the most common things I find myself doing on a table saw is leaning as the work is cutting to continue pushing through. Always be conscious of your footing and never lean over a machine when you can step forward just as easily. I often don't use the blade guard, because I prefer to be able to see the blade to make accurate cuts. If you do this, you have to be extra careful as well.
5. If I had long flowing hair, I'd tie it back. I don't, but I do have clothes with drawstrings, long sleeves, etc. None of these should be exposed when working around rotary tools of any kind.
6. Control your reflexes and let it drop. We've all been there. You finish up a cut on a weirdly balanced work, and the piece begins to crash to the floor. In your split-second reaction, you lunge or reach for the piece to catch it. STOP! NEVER DO THIS! If you think that a piece might fall, prepare yourself to let it drop. While you're frantically reaching out to catch that piece, you're liable to run into the blade because it is not your primary concern anymore. If you really can't afford to have a piece drop on the floor, get a friend. Or a pillow.
7. Make sure your hand is not anywhere near the path that you just pointed your nail gun. Nobody's perfect, and you'll eventually miss and put one right into your hand.
8. Slow down. If you get frustrated, you're going to make mistakes or hurt yourself. Sometimes you have to walk away for a little while or go do something else. That's OK. Take your time and do it right.
9. Don't be stupid. I If you think the thing you're about to is dangerous, don;t do it just because it'll save you five minutes or some other dumb excuse. Stop and figure out a safe way to do that thing. Your body and its appendages are paramount to making stuff, and you don't have spares, so just think before you act. You know when you're doing something stupid. Just because nobody is looking doesn't make it okay to hold that piece of wood an inch away from the chop saw blade.
10. This is not a complete list of safety rules, and every shop is different. make sure you know what you're doing with all tools, chemicals, and other stuff, and understand the safe use of these items, before you actually incorporate them into your next project.
*steps off soapbox*
OK, one more thing I did today. I cut the laminated panels I'm going to use for the seat. So far, I decided I only needed two of the panels, so I'm keeping the three layer one in reserve for now just in case. I cut the others on a combination of the band saw and table saw. I had to work slowly because as I cut, the stresses trapped inside because of the glue-up started to bind the work on the blade. I solved this by using lots of relief cuts and a little patience.
I also cut the two struts that go on either side and attach the back panels to the bottom panel. I made them out of some 1-by stock I had because I didn't feel like cutting into the 4x8 sheets of birch quite yet. I cut them on the table saw and band saw, and then sanded the edges with a belt sander to make fabric tears less likely. I also go to use my super-handy garage-sale-find radial arm saw. I don't have a miter saw, but this thing is incredible. You have to be really careful operating radial arm saws, but for $40 at a yard sale a few years back it was the perfect tool, and it cuts wider pieces than a 12" sliding compound miter saw with laser targeting system, turbodrive, and port and starboard attachments, or whatever it is they're selling at Depot nowadays.
After tacking it up with the nailer (still awesome) and screwing it together with some wide head wood screws, I had something that is starting to resemble a chair! The form is definitely there. I know that the back and bottom aren't attached yet, but once thing at a time. I have a long commute so I only get 2-3 hours if I work on it for a weekday night.
I am slowly realizing that this is going to take even longer than I originally thought to get everything the way I want it. But, that's alright. I'm just enjoying the work and taking my time, because if it isn't fun and enjoyable, then what's the point? SO far so good, tune in next time for another Star Trek Captain's Chair update!
