Skyrim Steel war axe build

thanks for the pic.
hmmmm.... with all of those ridges do you find it hard to match up the halves? another question about the tape. do you have to put an other piece on the sticky side? meaning, will the silicone cure if it comes in contact with the adhesive side?
 
The ridges actually help line the two sides up as does the mould still being joined at one end. As long as you get the large outer ridges to line up the inner ones do too.
The tape I use is the slightly opaque stuff that isn't as sticky as the transparent one. You do have to be careful to test the tape you use that it doesn't inhibit your silicon from curing. I just used left the sticky side exposed as it leaves a thinner join.
 
Wow, love the attention to detail, and some very cool moulding tips/techniques, thanks for sharing :thumbsup
 
Okay, at first I really thought this was my build! Some of your progress photos are so similar its eerie, hah.

Can't help but like the process so far, looking great!
 
Awesome looking build so far. Those parting lines look pretty crazy, never seen that technique before.

Are you going to cold cast it and polish it out for the shiny metal look?
 
Volpin said:
Okay, at first I really thought this was my build! Some of your progress photos are so similar its eerie, hah.

Can't help but like the process so far, looking great!
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I was originally planning to cold cast it like yours but I get a lot of trapped air in it as the aluminium powder thickens the resin a bit much. So for now it's black resin and some trusty rub n buff.

I picked up a commission for 14 award statues so progress is a little slow until I get them all cast and painted. But to keep you going here is my technique for holding mould halves together. The staples come out quickly by running a screwdriver under them and don't damage the mould either.

IMG_0659 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr

And an idea of how the head is coming along.

IMG_0661 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr
I had a bunch of tiny bubbles to fill which went pretty fast wit a bit of plasto made by revell. It's a solvent based filler that will happily bond with styrene unlike car body filler. You can even use a thin layer of it as a base for body filler to stick to styrene.
The threaded rod is cast into the neck by adding a section to the master before moulding and then setting a section into the void for casing the resin.
 
I made a quick start on the weathering. I started on a even layer of rub n buff applied with a soft cloth. The next step was to apply a wash made with a mix of black and dark brown inks. I painted it on and then went back over it with a cloth leaving the wash in the recesses and any dents with a little left on the surface to knock back a little of the shine. After this layer was dry I went back over the parts that would receive the most wear with some more rub n buff. I then applied a very thin wash into the the recessed sections and left it to dry. As it dries it recipes into the corners leaving a greater concentration of pigment there.


IMG_0687 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr

I forgot to take pictures of the whole process but the one above was just after the first wash was applied.
 
as far as I know volpin doesn't mix the powder in the resin. That takes WAY too much powder. You want to pour the powder straight into the mold. Slush that around like resin, don't brush it in. Pour the excess out then pour in your resin. Use steel wool to expose the powder. That what i did for my ancient nord helmet.
 
I finally got the weathering finished on the metallic parts. I'm pretty happy with how it came out having compromised on cold casting it and having to go with rub n buff.


IMG_0729 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr

I also managed to get the leather wrap done for the handle. i started by soaking the leather in warm water until it was soaked threw and then stretched it into shape and held it in place with clips. Once it had dried I trimmed off the excess and taped it in place with masking tape so that I could easily mark the holes for the bindings.


IMG_0730 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr

I didn't have a punch to hand so I used a drill to make the holes for the bindings to fit through. I laced it up to match the one from the game. I will probably use a little white glue to hold it in place when I finally fit it all together.


IMG_0739 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr
 
leather wrapping is a pain, i do alot of tomahawk commissions for the reservation near my house and the leather is the hardest part, especially bear hide, ugh. love watching this piece come together.
 
NexusFX said:
as far as I know volpin doesn't mix the powder in the resin. That takes WAY too much powder. You want to pour the powder straight into the mold. Slush that around like resin, don't brush it in. Pour the excess out then pour in your resin. Use steel wool to expose the powder. That what i did for my ancient nord helmet.
Click to expand...

To cover for overzealous polishing (as I am wont to do) I do at least one slush cast with powder mixed into the resin, I typically go 1:A 1:B 1:powder and use smooth-cast 65d, covers well for bits where I end up getting carried away without taking a ton of powder.

However, I love the finish you go without the cold cast!
 
wow! that looks pretty damn comparable to Volpin's. you did a fantastic job on this. and also, thank you for introducing us to the tape method.
 
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