Simulating Rusted Weathered Metal

[Capn_Jack_Savvy]

I have started my first prototype lid for my Captain Jack Sparrow Jar O Dirt and need to figure out how to simulate rusted, weathered metal. I am using aluminum sheets to create the lid because it is easy to cut and shape and doesn't require welding, metal benders, etc.

I am thinking of using silicone or hardened clay to create rust bubbles and peeling layered metal. These lumps would be glued to the aluminum and coated over with epoxy resin or some adhesive that would stick to metal. Of course paint can be used for color but I need more texture than color.

Movie prop:

Any ideas?

 

[hollywoodhardware]

A mixture of coffee and cacao works well with 1:1 scale props. That was used on the full scale ABC robot from Judge Dredd.

Thomas

 

[CustomCreations]

To get the flake effect you could try a thickish layer of black enamel and then heat it up in controlled areas to create blisters. You could then 'pop' the blisters where needed and fill the area underneath with what HH says.....
D

PS It'll stink the workspace out some ;-)

 

[robstyle]

if you wanted to do it the way the originals were done, you would coat the metal surface with water logged rubber then pull parts off when its set. After that, just apply some colored powders to the surface.

 

[slave1pilot]

listen to Rob.

 

[Contec]

What is "water logged rubber " ?

 

[Rhett J Martin]

Base coat of rust colored paint
Let dry
Apply a coating of wet table salt
Spray black paint over it (airbrush or spray paint)
Let dry
Brush salt off
Apply weathering/rust powders.

If you use acrylics, should take about an hour . . .

 

[robstyle]

Casting rubber has a shelf life, once opened, over a short time it gets contaminated. Sometimes it will foam, other times it wont set. If it foams, its been contaminated by moisture. The moisture makes the rubber foam and bubble leaving a tacky tar like finish thats rough and can be pulled apart like a sponge. Thats what you want.
Not every prop maker has forward thinking with a waste not attitude so if a material is contaminated, they toss it out. The ones who do think ahead will seal it, put it aside and use it when needed. Lots of that "as needed" material was used in POTC 2/3. The same finish thats on top the jars of dirt were also on the iron maiden cages seen at the prison sequence in part 2 and a slew of other items from swords to cannon balls to chains...

 

[Capn_Jack_Savvy]

How does one know SO much about POTC prop and set dressing? Rob may become my new hero instead of this unknown Matt Munson................!

 

[slave1pilot]

Rob knows all
Rob sees all

 

[robstyle]

actually, if you must know, I know a little bit of everything and alot about nothing.

 

[Capn_Jack_Savvy]

You're still my hero...........!

 

[PlasticineNinja]

Casting rubber has a shelf life, once opened, over a short time it gets contaminated.

What casting rubber are you referring to? Urethane?

 

[Stefan Jones]

just a little paint ..........Tamiya Weather Set

~Stefan Jones

 

[robstyle]

What casting rubber are you referring to? Urethane?

pretty much anything has a shelf life except Vienna Sausages. Im still convinced there are only half a dozen cans in existence around the world that make the rounds.

That Tamiya stuff looks sweet. Its just a matter of time restraints for props with paint and finish. The originals were aged in a quick minute as was most everything else. Sometimes the simple way is the quick and durable way.

 

[fettster]

You can get real rust on there. Stipple on some epoxy glue to the area you want rusty. Then dust with iron powder. One it has all set, spray it with a mixture of water and peroxide and leave covered in a bag for a few hours. Can't beat real rust.

 

[dz4180]

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Something like this was mentioned in this thread: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=78448

 

[robstyle]

You can get real rust on there. Stipple on some epoxy glue to the area you want rusty. Then dust with iron powder. One it has all set, spray it with a mixture of water and peroxide and leave covered in a bag for a few hours. Can't beat real rust.

If your going to go that route, why not just use iron oxide powders, lol. They run about $3 a pound on ebay.