Scribing: Just what in the crap am I doing wrong?

[TridCloudwalker]

I'm posting this in SS Modelling because a.) the kits I'm working on are SS and b.) you SS guys tend do more scribing than the general guys.

I have X-Actos, I have X-Actos with the tips broken off, I have various steel dental picks, and I have a set of steel hook picks. No matter what I use and no matter how carefully I go (even with a straight edge to guide me), my scribing looks like crap. The lines are rough, ugly, and generally unpleasant to look at.

What am I doing wrong?

Can anyone offer any tips or tutorials?

Help! :cry

 

[Watson]

I have a squadron scribing tool that I use. It was expensive but it is worth it. Try using that thick label tape made by dymo to put down as a guide.

It is that stuff that when you push into makes the raised letters. It works really well.

But to be honest after numerous tries I still suck at it but have had the best results with the above.

G

 

[Tordoc]

Start with a single light pass and go over it a few timed slowly. Take your time. After removing your guide, lightly sand it to remove any raised edges. If your blade slips, fill the mistake with Bondo.

 

[Less than Super Ostrich]

For resin, I often use a scribing saw (since typical garage kit resin is harder than polystyrene). That squadron scribing tool is MUCH better than exacto knives for scribing. MUCH MUCH MUCH more control.

Light passes is the key. Like 10 strokes per panel line... patience padawan.

 

[actias]

Another great tip (After following the advice from the guys above) you can go get one of those battery powered Oral B Rotory toothbrushes for $10.00 to clean and burnish the scribed lines you have made. The results are amazing. Looks like a factory engraved line. The rotating brushes clean the particles of plastic clinging to your scribed line and then it softens the edges (slightly) of the scribe line.

 

[Bradleyfett]

Get an actual 'scriber' from Home Depot or Lowes. Sometimes it takes some hunting in the tool section because the salespeople generally don't know what it is, but most of these stores cary them.

Mark

 

[TridCloudwalker]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. That helps a lot and I plan on putting it to use later today.

 

[eagle1]

Hi mate, I got my scriber from Micro-mark many years ago and it has never let me down. It is double ended, fine-scribe on one end and more bold on the other end but really its about how much pressure you put down and how many passes you run. A true scriber actually removes a hair of plastic from each pass while say a needle in a pinvise will only scratch the line and raise the edges up so you have more work in cleaning up the line, you don't need to clean up with a true scriber.
Hope this helps too?.
Cheers
Stu:lol

 

[robn1]

...a needle in a pinvise will only scratch the line and raise
the edges up so you have more work in cleaning up the line...

Scribing with an xacto does the same thing, it raises the plastic on both
sides of the line. I've used this method to restore raised lines that were
sanded off. If you use a light hand, the lines blend in great with the molded
lines when painted.

Rob

 

[Chris Martin]

It depends whether you use the front edge or the back edge of the blade. The front edge used in a cutting action on ductile material will lift a ridge either side of the cut line. The flat top back of the blade will shear a thin line of material off the same way as a lathe tool. Most purpose designed scribing tools do the latter. The hardest materials to scribe are the brittle ones because the edges tend to chip.

 

[Blaxmyth]

I've used one of these Tamiya scribers with great success. I've had it for years and am still on the first blade. Light pressure, multiple passes and taping a flexible ruler to the work seem to give the best results.

This is the first link I could find to the product.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-74015-000-PLASTIC-SCRIBER-TAMIYA/dp/B000J49X82

Cheers, Phil