Scotty03´s Noob Iron Man project thread
- Thread starter Scotty03
- Start date
CustomPropSculptorGuy
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Sculpt
take a fine rake, or you can use a light mist of WD40 and some 1000grit sand paper in a circular pattern
take a fine rake, or you can use a light mist of WD40 and some 1000grit sand paper in a circular pattern
Maelstrom
Sr Member
Re: Iron Man Sculpt
WD-40 is a "penetrating" spray. Used mostly to break the bond between rusted together parts such as a nut and bolt. It also forms a rust protective barrier on metals such as tools.
According to the website there are over 2000 uses. CPSG you may have to let them know about this use!thumbsup
WD-40 is a "penetrating" spray. Used mostly to break the bond between rusted together parts such as a nut and bolt. It also forms a rust protective barrier on metals such as tools.
According to the website there are over 2000 uses. CPSG you may have to let them know about this use!
thumbsup
Maelstrom
Sr Member
Re: Iron Man Sculpt
Ooops. Found this on the Arts and crafts section of uses on their website
The way this is worded knid of makes me think of premade molds people use with FIMO clay to make beads, dolls, etc.
May want to give it a try, tho.
Ooops. Found this on the Arts and crafts section of uses on their website
- Keeps clay from sticking to molds during crafting
The way this is worded knid of makes me think of premade molds people use with FIMO clay to make beads, dolls, etc.
May want to give it a try, tho.
Silicone and MDF
Hi folks
i was wondering if anyone can tell me whether a release agent is required when using rtv silicone on mdf? The mdf will be used for the ears of my iron man placed on the chavant based helmet. I dont want to balls my mold up after getting this far!
Thanks
Hi folks
i was wondering if anyone can tell me whether a release agent is required when using rtv silicone on mdf? The mdf will be used for the ears of my iron man placed on the chavant based helmet. I dont want to balls my mold up after getting this far!
Thanks
cheech9898
Sr Member
Re: Silicone and MDF
The MDF should be at least be sealed with a paint, wax or lacquer from my personal experience with unsealed MDF excessively sticking or absorbing release agent.
The MDF should be at least be sealed with a paint, wax or lacquer from my personal experience with unsealed MDF excessively sticking or absorbing release agent.
Re: Silicone and MDF
Hi scotty, yes we have found that silicone on MDF can be tricky.
Not so much the flat/smooth surface, but the end 'grain' (if you can call it that), will soak up the silicone and make it very difficult to de-mold.
If you are are making mdf parts to mold, I suggest sealing the open edges with a very watery mixture of PVA glue and water. The mixture should look like white water.
Allow it soak in an apply another coat. Sand it off and it should feel smooth. If not, apply another coat and repeat the sanding.
When smooth, spray the whole thing with primer, then you can mold no problem
weequay
Hi scotty, yes we have found that silicone on MDF can be tricky.
Not so much the flat/smooth surface, but the end 'grain' (if you can call it that), will soak up the silicone and make it very difficult to de-mold.
If you are are making mdf parts to mold, I suggest sealing the open edges with a very watery mixture of PVA glue and water. The mixture should look like white water.
Allow it soak in an apply another coat. Sand it off and it should feel smooth. If not, apply another coat and repeat the sanding.
When smooth, spray the whole thing with primer, then you can mold no problem
weequay
Re: Silicone and MDF
yes you definitely need something to seal the wood grain. try wood shlac or a heavy stain. if you can get your hands on some resin, then pour a coat and sand. please heed my words, more than once I've been burned by not releasing wood properly!
yes you definitely need something to seal the wood grain. try wood shlac or a heavy stain. if you can get your hands on some resin, then pour a coat and sand. please heed my words, more than once I've been burned by not releasing wood properly!
IEDBOUNTYHUNTER
Sr Member
Re: Silicone and MDF
Vaseline will work, just the very lightest coat, to much and it will keep the silicone from curing.
Vaseline will work, just the very lightest coat, to much and it will keep the silicone from curing.
First Mold/Cast - iron man
Ok folks so am almost ready to create my first mold from rtv rubber on model shown here. I am looking for some tips so i dont mess it up. I know i have to seal the mdf ears. What i have learned seems to suggests a thin first coat. Once tacky a thicker coat and so on. I am looking for any advice further to this and subtle tips that i may have missed.
Many thanks from a noob!
Ok folks so am almost ready to create my first mold from rtv rubber on model shown here. I am looking for some tips so i dont mess it up. I know i have to seal the mdf ears. What i have learned seems to suggests a thin first coat. Once tacky a thicker coat and so on. I am looking for any advice further to this and subtle tips that i may have missed.
Many thanks from a noob!
SUPERprops
Sr Member
Re: First Mold/Cast - iron man
Look up Rebound-25 on Smooth-on.com. I would order a gallon, it's cheaper in the long run and the trial size isn't enough. the key to mold making is to do it right, don't go "oh instead of 4 coats I'm just going to do 3 because it will save me silicone and $." if you do that you will most likely have to re-mold.
Smooth-on.com also has some tutorials on mold making, as stated above I would make atleast a two part mold. Find a distributor near you to save on shipping and order everything at once. Make sure you get Plasti-paste 2 so you can make a shell, some silicone to silicone mold release is a must, some silicone thickener, and I would go with smooth-on's Roto-Casting Resin.
When molding ALWAYS have a clean area, clean mixing tools, clean brushes, NON-latex gloves, glasses are always a good idea, and make sure that you seal your sculpt with a clear-coat and it is dry(if not sealed silicone won't cure, if clear-coat isn't dry the silicone will have a "tacky" layer).
Start out by mixing enough to easly cover the whole model, as soon as you mix it pour it on top of the model at a medium rate. Let the silicone get into every part of the model, as this will be your detail layer (you will have to brush some into the parts that are hard to get).
I usually let it cure completely until it is not tacky, then I repeat that step and as soon as it is tacky, but doesn't stick to my finger, I apply a layer using the silicone thickener. do this until you have a mold 1/2" to 3/8" thick.
Now you need to build up a barrier, this is where the mold will be parted. before the barrier cures I place some styrene sheet in the silicone to creat a wall. Now starting on one side build up your shell using Plasti-Paste, once it's thick enough(1/2" to 3/8") and cures remove the styrene and apply a mold release to the Plasti-Paste(I've heard bees-wax works). Repeat the Plasti-Paste step until you have a complete shell, then carefully remove the shell from the silicone.
There should be a crease in the silicone where the styrene was, carefully use an X-atco knife and cut through the silicone down the crease. Carefully take the silicone off the model and store it in the shell until you are ready for casting.
I hope this helps!
Superprops
Look up Rebound-25 on Smooth-on.com. I would order a gallon, it's cheaper in the long run and the trial size isn't enough. the key to mold making is to do it right, don't go "oh instead of 4 coats I'm just going to do 3 because it will save me silicone and $." if you do that you will most likely have to re-mold.
Smooth-on.com also has some tutorials on mold making, as stated above I would make atleast a two part mold. Find a distributor near you to save on shipping and order everything at once. Make sure you get Plasti-paste 2 so you can make a shell, some silicone to silicone mold release is a must, some silicone thickener, and I would go with smooth-on's Roto-Casting Resin.
When molding ALWAYS have a clean area, clean mixing tools, clean brushes, NON-latex gloves, glasses are always a good idea, and make sure that you seal your sculpt with a clear-coat and it is dry(if not sealed silicone won't cure, if clear-coat isn't dry the silicone will have a "tacky" layer).
Start out by mixing enough to easly cover the whole model, as soon as you mix it pour it on top of the model at a medium rate. Let the silicone get into every part of the model, as this will be your detail layer (you will have to brush some into the parts that are hard to get).
I usually let it cure completely until it is not tacky, then I repeat that step and as soon as it is tacky, but doesn't stick to my finger, I apply a layer using the silicone thickener. do this until you have a mold 1/2" to 3/8" thick.
Now you need to build up a barrier, this is where the mold will be parted. before the barrier cures I place some styrene sheet in the silicone to creat a wall. Now starting on one side build up your shell using Plasti-Paste, once it's thick enough(1/2" to 3/8") and cures remove the styrene and apply a mold release to the Plasti-Paste(I've heard bees-wax works). Repeat the Plasti-Paste step until you have a complete shell, then carefully remove the shell from the silicone.
There should be a crease in the silicone where the styrene was, carefully use an X-atco knife and cut through the silicone down the crease. Carefully take the silicone off the model and store it in the shell until you are ready for casting.
I hope this helps!
Superprops
Similar threads
