Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

[jholko]

I hate to disagree with you but I'm with johncarbon1991 on this one. The material is crucial and all other coatmakers other than SR are missing the mark. I wish Jameel Ur and Zlurpo would invest a bit more time and find the right material. Rene April has said over and over again that this is laminated cotton. I just found yet another quote from her from Vogue UK:

"“We made at least 15 coats for Ryan Gosling, as he wears one costume for the whole film. I work a lot with Denis, and I know that he moves scenes around which alters the chronology. It helps him when my costumes don’t change too much! Everyone thinks his military coat is made of shearling, but it’s laminated cotton that we painted and then attached cheap, ugly faux fur to the collar – it was $2 a yard! Leather would have become wet and very heavy in that environment, and his character is poor, he has a miserable existence in that basic apartment. The collar - pretty cool, eh? – is so he can hide himself from the pollution. We’ve seen hoods thousands of times on-screen, so I came up with a high collar that closed magnetically. I wanted the audience to just see his eyes at the beginning of the film.”

Laminated cotton that was painted. I dont understand why this is so hard to find for a coatmaker. Why charge a bit more (and closer to what SR and Magnoli are charging) but get the most crucial aspect right. I agree that Zlurpo now has the potential to become the greatest, most SA Officer K coat out there. Jameel's attention to detail rivals ours (especially Mechanismo's) and I think the coat has great potential. It would be such a shame to just leave it at simple cotton (like WSL does). SR does NOT source their material from China, johncarbon1991 , it is made in Italy (to me that is a HUGE difference) and the material is unbelievable. Mechanismo one day you will hopefully see my altered coat (when it has been fixed) and I would not be surprised if you loved the material. Just my 2 cents but as good as the revised Zlurpo coat looks, if the material is just simple cotton canvas, it will miss the mark significantly. The whole point of the coat was to have the laminated, painted look.

I just want to echo these sentiments. I own the latest Magnoli and the SR. There is no comparison when it comes to the material. The SR is just in a league of its own for SA.

Getting all the fine details right is of course important, but if the fabric isn't right its kind of pointless in my opinion. I'd happily trade a few inaccuracies here and there for the right fabric any day. To this end, the modified SR is to my way of thinking the best option on the market at the moment. The collar and shearling can be fixed. The base fabric you cant change.. so choose your coat based on the fabric, not the fine details.

 

[Shahrooz]

I just want to echo these sentiments. I own the latest Magnoli and the SR. There is no comparison when it comes to the material. The SR is just in a league of its own for SA.

Getting all the fine details right is of course important, but if the fabric isn't right its kind of pointless in my opinion. I'd happily trade a few inaccuracies here and there for the right fabric any day. To this end, the modified SR is to my way of thinking the best option on the market at the moment. The collar and shearling can be fixed. The base fabric you cant change.. so choose your coat based on the fabric, not the fine details.

i could not agree more. Now, if Zlurpo or someone else could find material that is even more SA (or better looking - hard to do, I guess, but not impossible), I'm in all the way. Until then, I think the WSL as modified by Mechanismo is still superior to all waxed/unwaxed cotton coats until we see evidence to the contrary. Magnoli just keeps talking about big changes but we have seen any to date. I do think Zlurpo is actually working on improving his coat.

 

[jholko]

i could not agree more. Now, if Zlurpo or someone else could find material that is even more SA (or better looking - hard to do, I guess, but not impossible), I'm in all the way. Until then, I think the WSL as modified by Mechanismo is still superior to all waxed/unwaxed cotton coats until we see evidence to the contrary. Magnoli just keeps talking about big changes but we have seen any to date. I do think Zlurpo is actually working on improving his coat.

My feeling is it's going to be really tough to find anything that looks better than the SR fabric. It's so close to the movie coat in appearance I think we can safely say it's a match. That said, no reason someone else cant use the same fabric and improve their coat further.

I am done buying any more coats now though - unless we see something that meets all the fine details with fabric at least equal to SR. Until then I will modify my SR... still on the hunt for good shearling here in Australia though.

 

[Shahrooz]

My feeling is it's going to be really tough to find anything that looks better than the SR fabric. It's so close to the movie coat in appearance I think we can safely say it's a match. That said, no reason someone else cant use the same fabric and improve their coat further.

I am done buying any more coats now though - unless we see something that meets all the fine details with fabric at least equal to SR. Until then I will modify my SR... still on the hunt for good shearling here in Australia though.

Agreed. I will say that Mechanismo's waxed coat looks phenomenal but he put in A LOT OF WORK to get it to where it is. Bottom line is that we shouldn't have to do all that work, particularly not at these prices. I'm with you on SR as you know. I'm going to get my SR fixed, then work on the WSL I have and that's it. If someone produces a coat that really stands out and gets both the details right and uses what I thin is the right fabric, I'd be up for another coat. Until then, I've got my hands full with these projects.

 

[jholko]

For completion - here are all the collar measurements on my revised Magnoli.

 

[Shahrooz]

Taking my SR to the tailor tomorrow to get it fixed. Wish me luck. Will report back.

 

[Malibu139]

Taking my SR to the tailor tomorrow to get it fixed. Wish me luck. Will report back.

And very good luck to you, can’t wait to see the final.

 

[Mechanismo]

Hi guys,

Just thought I'd share a few really nice hi-res pics of the FIDM expo which I hadn't seen before.

The one thing that I'm getting from these and other prop display photos is that the prop coat's actual color appears to be a deep, dark green…with the onscreen 'dark cyan' tone (with a bluish hue) we see in so many (although not all) scenes being conspicuously absent.

So, what does that mean? The film's lighting and heavy color grading clearly played a huge role in terms of establishing our perception of the coat's color. (note: the onscreen coat's color also looks different depending on the scene).

So, in terms of the available coats, I think Soul Revolver, for instance, sourced a saturated gray-cyan fabric to really nail the coat's appearance in many scenes in the film, but in doing so, does not properly match the prop coat.

Conversely, a heavily waxed WSL appears to be a closer match to the prop coat color-wise, but not so when it comes to the color on screen.

Suffice to say I think it's good news all around. But I guess, when discussing color, in might be worth making the distinction between "screen coat" and "prop coat." In any case, it's great to be able to have those two options depending on what sort of details you're after. Hopefully both WSL and SR will get around to improving their collar design. And leaving aside the issue of lamination (in which SR has the clear advantage), Zlurpo's 'new and improved' coat is no doubt going to bring together most of these design corrections. Looking forward to seeing that!

 

[Malibu139]

Definitely getting into Han Solos Hoth coat territory here (is it Blue as on screen due to lighting, or Brown like the coat on display) ….. ha

Those display pics from FIDM would be my first choice in color and finish if someone made that as an option. Looks fantastic like that.
That being said my SR is closer on green spectrum than grey but not quite as vibrant as those displays.

 

[Mechanismo]

Definitely getting into Han Solos Hoth coat territory here (is it Blue as on screen due to lighting, or Brown like the coat on display) ….. ha

Those display pics from FIDM would be my first choice in color and finish if someone made that as an option. Looks fantastic like that.
That being said my SR is closer on green spectrum than grey but not quite as vibrant as those displays.

That's just another one of the frustratingly cool things about (cracking) this coat.

Some might say, "hey what's on the screen is what's most 'screen accurate'." And it's hard to argue with that. But that said, there are those who would much prefer to have a replica of the same coat they constructed in the wardrobe department. What seems certain is that you can't really have it both ways...haha.

But, yes, if you're looking for a coat that's closer to the prop coat, a heavily waxed custom WSL -so far- might be the closest option color-wise.
EDIT: Shahrooz told me he would post pics of his SR under different lighting conditions soon. It may all just boil down to lighting...

 

[Malibu139]

EDIT: Shahrooz told me he would post pics of his SR under different lighting conditions soon. It may all just boil down to lighting...

Agreed . I am not sure what kind of lighting that far right SR coat is under... I don’t think mine has ever looked like that
Shahrooz coat looks very green in a couple of his taylor pics
check this oldie out, I think they did it in leather before it was broadly known about pc coated cotton.

 

[jholko]

Im actually considering ordering a 2nd SR coat and having it cut up for the material to custom make a new collar. There is probably enough material in a coat to make quite a few collars - so if anyone else is keen on doing this let me know and we can split costs.

 

[TurnipyOdour]

Does it look like the bottom edge of the collar has got something in it to mould it into shape? Even though it's laying flat and out of postion the bottom is still following the curve of the shoulder as if it was standing straight up.

Or is that just a characteristic of the material that it creases and folds into shape after a lot of use?

 

[Mechanismo]

Does it look like the bottom edge of the collar has got something in it to mould it into shape? Even though it's laying flat and out of postion the bottom is still following the curve of the shoulder as if it was standing straight up.

Or is that just a characteristic of the material that it creases and folds into shape after a lot of use?

View attachment 1540077

Well spotted and another reason why I believe they used buckram in the collar portion. Its rigidness is quite apparent and no doubt also furthers its bulky appearance on the long side of the collar when folded back.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Hey,

Fabrics feels change when laminated it and it looks rigid.
There is no need buckram inside collar if lamented fabric use.
I have laminated cotton water proof fabric but we don't want to use it, our coats are great replica as well as casual and comfort coat, people wares in different occasion and daily use.

 

[Mechanismo]

Hey,

Fabrics feels change when laminated it and it looks rigid.
There is no need buckram inside collar if lamented fabric use.
I have laminated cotton water proof fabric but we don't want to use it, our coats are great replica as well as casual and comfort coat, people wares in different occasion and daily use.

The collar needs a layer of buckram, IMO. I've replaced the shearling and applied two generous coatings of wax to my custom collar and I still think it has floppiness issues. Now, 'painting' the fabric with acrylic might add more rigidness, but regardless, adding an inner layer of buckram is a win-win IMO.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Waxing and lamination, two different process.
Waxy fabrics and jackets are trendy now, Kevin Costner quilted jacket or Skyfall parka, those are waxy fabric.
Check this out, this is laminated cotton fabric.
BTW, who bought laminated coats so far?

 

[Mechanismo]

Waxing and lamination, two different process.
Waxy fabrics and jackets are trendy now, Kevin Costner quilted jacket or Skyfall parka, those are waxy fabric.
Check this out, this is laminated cotton fabric.
BTW, who bought laminated coats so far?
View attachment 1540189

I realize they're different processes and both clearly have their uses and pros/cons. Incidentally, you say that the fabric in the provided photo is laminated yet it has a distinctly matte finish. When I say 'laminated' I'm referring to something glossy (like Soul Revolver's finish) or this prop coat photo...

Suffice to say, I think it would be great if you guys could 'crank up the gloss' in your lamination to match the film coat.

 

[Malibu139]

The collar needs a layer of buckram, IMO. I've replaced the shearling and applied two generous coatings of wax to my custom collar and I still think it has floppiness issues. Now, 'painting' the fabric with acrylic might add more rigidness, but regardless, adding an inner layer of buckram is a win-win IMO.

I think on the right (short side) could use what you are describing. That side does need structure to stay put and not flop when folded down( not flipped up)
The longer left side needs to have a fold so it lays flat on itself.

Thoughts on the buckram going around 60 -70 percent of the collar, leaving the rest to be able to flip on itself?

 

[Mechanismo]

I think on the right (short side) could use what you are describing. That side does need structure to stay put and not flop when folded down( not flipped up)
The longer left side needs to have a fold so it lays flat on itself.

Thoughts on the buckram going around 60 -70 percent of the collar, leaving the rest to be able to flip on itself?

Dunno... it's my distinct impression that, while 'moldable,' the entire collar is pretty rigid and upholstered in construction and appearance. This is also one of the main reasons it can take on that 'bulky/bulgy' appearance around the left shoulder area, as we see in many scenes of the film.

On the prop coat, the rigidness is pretty clear to my eyes.

Here are a few examples of the bulgy/bulky look around the left shoulder area:

Then, in other scenes the collar appears to be slightly more flush against the coat:

In any case, I think whatever the desired 'look,' it requires a fairly rigid collar. I only have my custom collar to go on... And while I'm pretty pleased with the dimensions, it can be quite floppy around that long side of the collar so the next time I get the shearling replaced, I'll be sure to add the buckram.