Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

Zlurpo

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hard to capture small color differences in textiles on camera, but we've had the fur re-dyed darker.

new fur.jpeg
 

Mechanismo

Well-Known Member
Hard to capture small color differences in textiles on camera, but we've had the fur re-dyed darker.

View attachment 1535410
It's coming along! You're right, it's not easy getting a clear sense of what the true color is. But having to go on that photo alone, I'd say it's still not dark enough... Can you post some more in different lighting?

For what it's worth, here are some shots of my particular 'Golden Rabbit / sherpa 'camel color' shearling and one the film coat prop display.

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Here are shearlings sourced from Uniqulo (L) and Amazon (R). They look pretty nice in terms of color, especially Uniqulo:

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Obviously, the film's shearling is heavily distressed (with shoe polish, apparently) and depending on the lighting, it looks completely different.

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Zlurpo

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The weathering is my biggest issue with going darker. To me it seems the best color to go with is what his coat would have looked like when it was new. You can always get it dirty, you can't really go lighter.

Screenshot_20220118-112926.jpg


I don't have the material myself to compare to, but here's screenshot from a video Jameel Ur sent.
 

Mechanismo

Well-Known Member
The weathering is my biggest issue with going darker. To me it seems the best color to go with is what his coat would have looked like when it was new. You can always get it dirty, you can't really go lighter.

View attachment 1535451

I don't have the material myself to compare to, but here's screenshot from a video Jameel Ur sent.
It's probably safe to assume that most customers will leave the shearling as is (i.e. not be applying shoe polish/distressing). To my eyes, your shearling is still too beige/pastel-looking. I would say use the Uniqulo for your target, this looks the perfect balance between leaving the shearling 'as is' while still achieving a color that appears in many scenes in the film.

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Jameel Ur

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hello guys,
Here are couple of images with different angle.
 

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Jameel Ur

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
when you see this fur in person so, it would be like this camel color, fading and slightly brownish shade in fur, that my phone didn't pick the actual color.
 

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Mechanismo

Well-Known Member
Hahaha.
Actually, it's custom handmade dying process, and sometimes perfect color doesn't come out.
Well, if you can, keep tweaking until you get it right... Once you've 'perfected the recipe,' you'll have it nailed going forward.
Granted, customers can also just replace the shearling of their choice post-sale with a local tailor, but it would be fantastic the shearling was 'good-to-go.' None of the current coat providers have come even close so far, so definitely worth the effort to (finally) get it right.
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
Given your reply to other threads Jameel Ur , I'm genuinely not sure if you're looking for legitimate info or a troll account.

Shahrooz , any update from your tailor on when the shearling will be revised to the single panel? Been watching this thread eagerly, have been holding off on having my SR coat modified until the final kinks are worked out. Need to get mine fixed asap since it's now super cold on the east coast.
sorry guys been out with COVID. Johnny, haven't been able to take the coat to get it fixed for that reason. will go next week.
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
I would definitely check with Shahrooz because his tailor took a lot of liberties (like sealing/stitching half the left lapel to the collar for no reason. I think he’s sorting this and other issues out with him currently).

Just some thoughts regarding what you’re bringing up about the coat’s fabric. I know how much SR owners attest to how terrific the material is, its sheen, texture, finish. Not being an SR owner myself, I have to agree it looks really nice. However… just going on the Officer K prop display alone, the coat itself (which looks quite distressed and was probably screen used) does not look ‘leathery’ in texture and is quite devoid of any sheen... In fact, it looks quite matte in its finish. With that said, I think Zurlpo’s coat is very close in terms of the cotton fabric texture/weave. Now, quite clearly, the coat in the film does have sheen to it in in most scenes, but I’m just pointing out how the prop display photos provide quite a lot of visual information that can sometimes be overlooked. IMO, I’d say Zurplo/Jameel’s fabric/stitching/piping looks pretty spot on. Their improvements (and crucially they’re predisposition to address and amend previous inconsistencies) will end up producing the most SA coat that's currently available.

Regarding the waxing process… agreed, it’s a royal pain in the butt, but I’ve said in previous posts, it really gives the coat more weight, grit and character IMO. I’d love to see the full effect on Zurlpo’s coat (double coating, like mine) and, absolutely, also see the SR-style acrylic treatment if anyone can swing that post-sale, perhaps?

View attachment 1534924
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I hate to disagree with you but I'm with johncarbon1991 on this one. The material is crucial and all other coatmakers other than SR are missing the mark. I wish Jameel Ur and Zlurpo would invest a bit more time and find the right material. Rene April has said over and over again that this is laminated cotton. I just found yet another quote from her from Vogue UK:

"“We made at least 15 coats for Ryan Gosling, as he wears one costume for the whole film. I work a lot with Denis, and I know that he moves scenes around which alters the chronology. It helps him when my costumes don’t change too much! Everyone thinks his military coat is made of shearling, but it’s laminated cotton that we painted and then attached cheap, ugly faux fur to the collar – it was $2 a yard! Leather would have become wet and very heavy in that environment, and his character is poor, he has a miserable existence in that basic apartment. The collar - pretty cool, eh? – is so he can hide himself from the pollution. We’ve seen hoods thousands of times on-screen, so I came up with a high collar that closed magnetically. I wanted the audience to just see his eyes at the beginning of the film.”

Laminated cotton that was painted. I dont understand why this is so hard to find for a coatmaker. Why charge a bit more (and closer to what SR and Magnoli are charging) but get the most crucial aspect right. I agree that Zlurpo now has the potential to become the greatest, most SA Officer K coat out there. Jameel's attention to detail rivals ours (especially Mechanismo's) and I think the coat has great potential. It would be such a shame to just leave it at simple cotton (like WSL does). SR does NOT source their material from China, johncarbon1991 , it is made in Italy (to me that is a HUGE difference) and the material is unbelievable. Mechanismo one day you will hopefully see my altered coat (when it has been fixed) and I would not be surprised if you loved the material. Just my 2 cents but as good as the revised Zlurpo coat looks, if the material is just simple cotton canvas, it will miss the mark significantly. The whole point of the coat was to have the laminated, painted look.
 
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Mechanismo

Well-Known Member
I hate to disagree with you but I'm with johncarbon1991 on this one. The material is crucial and all other coatmakers other than SR are missing the mark. I wish Jameel Ur and Zlurpo would invest a bit more time and find the right material. Rene April has said over and over again that this is laminated cotton. I just found yet another quote from her from Vogue UK:

"“We made at least 15 coats for Ryan Gosling, as he wears one costume for the whole film. I work a lot with Denis, and I know that he moves scenes around which alters the chronology. It helps him when my costumes don’t change too much! Everyone thinks his military coat is made of shearling, but it’s laminated cotton that we painted and then attached cheap, ugly faux fur to the collar – it was $2 a yard! Leather would have become wet and very heavy in that environment, and his character is poor, he has a miserable existence in that basic apartment. The collar - pretty cool, eh? – is so he can hide himself from the pollution. We’ve seen hoods thousands of times on-screen, so I came up with a high collar that closed magnetically. I wanted the audience to just see his eyes at the beginning of the film.”

Laminated cotton that was painted. I dont understand why this is so hard to find for a coatmaker. SR does NOT source their material from China, johncarbon1991 , it is made in Italy (to me that is a HUGE difference) and the material is unbelievable. Mechanismo one day you will hopefully see my altered coat (when it has been fixed) and I would not be surprised if you loved the material. Just my 2 cents but as good as the revised Zlurpo coat looks, if the material is just simple cotton canvas, it will miss the mark significantly. The whole point of the coat was to have the laminated, painted look.

I hate to disagree with you but I'm with johncarbon1991 on this one. The material is crucial and all other coatmakers other than SR are missing the mark. I wish Jameel Ur and Zlurpo would invest a bit more time and find the right material. Rene April has said over and over again that this is laminated cotton. I just found yet another quote from her from Vogue UK:

"“We made at least 15 coats for Ryan Gosling, as he wears one costume for the whole film. I work a lot with Denis, and I know that he moves scenes around which alters the chronology. It helps him when my costumes don’t change too much! Everyone thinks his military coat is made of shearling, but it’s laminated cotton that we painted and then attached cheap, ugly faux fur to the collar – it was $2 a yard! Leather would have become wet and very heavy in that environment, and his character is poor, he has a miserable existence in that basic apartment. The collar - pretty cool, eh? – is so he can hide himself from the pollution. We’ve seen hoods thousands of times on-screen, so I came up with a high collar that closed magnetically. I wanted the audience to just see his eyes at the beginning of the film.”

Laminated cotton that was painted. I dont understand why this is so hard to find for a coatmaker. SR does NOT source their material from China, johncarbon1991 , it is made in Italy (to me that is a HUGE difference) and the material is unbelievable. Mechanismo one day you will hopefully see my altered coat (when it has been fixed) and I would not be surprised if you loved the material. Just my 2 cents but as good as the revised Zlurpo coat looks, if the material is just simple cotton canvas, it will miss the mark significantly. The whole point of the coat was to have the laminated, painted look.
Shahrooz, I'm just saying how that specific prop display coat is practically devoid of any laminating of any kind. (Did it wear off?) It can however, give us a good indication of what type of cotton canvass/material was used. The texture is very helpful in terms revealing this. Whether one laminates it, paints it, waxes it, it's something that should probably be done at the very end.
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
Shahrooz, I'm just saying how that specific prop display coat is practically devoid of any laminating of any kind. (Did it wear off?) It can however, give us a good indication of what type of cotton canvass/material was used. The texture is very helpful in terms revealing this. Whether one laminates it, paints it, waxes it, it's something that should probably be done at the very end.
agreed. What I am saying is that we, as customers, shouldn't have to do it. There should be options available, price adjusted and reflected of course, that would allow us to choose. Some prefer waxed cotton, fine. Others may want the laminated cotton. If SR can do it, I dont see any reason why others can't follow suit.
 

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