Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!


Shahrooz

Active Member
Im actually having second thoughts on the SR coat that maybe I should ordered the XXL instead of XL... Im kind of right in the middle (closer to XL), but bit worried.. would you guys say the SR runs smaller or larger for its size?
How tall are you and what's your weight? Difficult to assess without vitals.
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
Hi everyone, Shahrooz asked me specifically about WSL’s color after re-waxing so I thought I’d share here. So, first off, like I say, this is the coat’s second waxing, which I applied this past August (the first coating was a year earlier). I’ve had a chance to ‘break in’ the new coating for a couple of weeks now, so I thought I’d share some photos.

So, the coat is heavier (another entire can of Barbour’s worth), darker now, more sheen and molds nicely around the arms and shoulders with lots of drape and creases. Crucially, it looks and feels like leather (most people think it is, actually).

Color: here are a few pictures with three light sources. As you can see, a bit like the movie coat, the color varies quite a bit!

In sum, there’s a night-and-day difference between a waxed and unwaxed coat. This second coating, a year later, was also crucial in adding even more character and grit. Granted, the waxing process is a bit of a pain, but very much worth the effort. Pretty happy with the results!

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Looks freaking amazing!!
 

Mechanismo

Active Member
Hi guys. Just added another couple quick outdoor WSL color example shots, this time at night under a streetlight.

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johncarbon1991

New Member
5"11, 210
Not sure if it helps, but at 5'8", 190lbs muscular I went with a size Large, which Soul Revolver described as "between a slim and regular fit". Comparatively, they said if I went for an XL it would have been a regular fit. Aside from the sleeves being marginally too long (which I think the added shoulder padding will fix, as it bumps it up), I found the stock fit just fine.
I think the safest bet is to take whatever you are in American sizing and go one size up (I usually wear an American Medium for a tailored fit). I can tell you having worn the coat that the shoulders are narrow, so that area would be my biggest concern in terms of sizing.
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
5"11, 210
that's a tough one, agreed. I am 5'10 and wear a size L and it is a bit tight in the chest and armpits but after discussing with my tailor, we agreed that an XL would be just too baggy around the waste area. I'm a 33 and the L is just right, an XL would look like a bathrobe in the torso area. Id' say if you want a fitter look, go with the XL, if you like a more loose, regular look, go with XXL.
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
Guys

Sorry, went MIA. Lots on my plate. Good news is that the SR coat is with the tailor and is being worked on. It will take some time for sure. Once the collar is repositioned and the shearling replaced, we will move into the next phase with magnet installment etc.
 

Egon

Sr Member
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This may be well worn territory at this point - but are we certain on the process used on the screen used jackets regarding wax, sealant, etc?

I know there is some potential language barrier stuff with the "laminated" cotton (which *is* a product, but not sure that was used?) and painting the fabric/garment.

Just wondering as I start the planning on the K jacket and testing waxing (have a Barbour I love that should be rewatched) and other methods to get the effect.
 

Mechanismo

Active Member
View attachment 1511558 This may be well worn territory at this point - but are we certain on the process used on the screen used jackets regarding wax, sealant, etc?

I know there is some potential language barrier stuff with the "laminated" cotton (which *is* a product, but not sure that was used?) and painting the fabric/garment.

Just wondering as I start the planning on the K jacket and testing waxing (have a Barbour I love that should be rewatched) and other methods to get the effect.
That's looking nice! And yes, as far we know the coat was "laminated and painted," with no mention of waxing. I'm not sure how acrylic works on cotton... the one thing I will say about the wax is that it added sheen/smoothness, weight and drape to my coat... In my mind, acrylic would certainly give it sheen, but would help in those other departments? What's not clear either is what exactly April Renee meant by 'painting'... Any ideas?

In these shots of the movie coat, for instance, the cotton looks almost untreated in some shots. In other photos (most likely another production coat) it definitely does seem smoother, more leather-like.
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Incidentally, color-wise, the production coat looks to be more a dark grayish-green than a dark teal (granted, it appears this way in many scenes in the film, but I suspect this has more to do with the post-production color grading) which is the color Soul Revolver chose to emulate, incidentally. Any thoughts?
 
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Malibu139

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
View attachment 1511558 This may be well worn territory at this point - but are we certain on the process used on the screen used jackets regarding wax, sealant, etc?

I know there is some potential language barrier stuff with the "laminated" cotton (which *is* a product, but not sure that was used?) and painting the fabric/garment.

Just wondering as I start the planning on the K jacket and testing waxing (have a Barbour I love that should be rewatched) and other methods to get the effect.
robo3687 had an awesome build thread ( robo3687's Officer K Coat Build - Blade Runner 2049 (Update: 15th Dec 2020) ) a couple years back where he painted canvas . He made 2, and one went to Adam Savage. He has some tests of the painting process in this thread too.
 
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Egon

Sr Member
robo3687 had an awesome build thread ( robo3687's Officer K Coat Build - Blade Runner 2049 (Update: 15th Dec 2020) ) a couple years back where he painted canvas . He made 2, and one went to Adam Savage. He has some tests of the painting process in this thread too.
I had totally forgotten about that thread! Thanks!

Funnily enough, that's similar to what I used on the swatch.

I tested this little patch with fabric mod podge. Pretty similar to acrylic mediums, but amazingly, I forgot those exist (despite being a professional painter in acrylics for like 5 or 6 years)

Again, very helpful - thank you!
 

Mechanismo

Active Member
robo3687 had an awesome build thread ( robo3687's Officer K Coat Build - Blade Runner 2049 (Update: 15th Dec 2020) ) a couple years back where he painted canvas . He made 2, and one went to Adam Savage. He has some tests of the painting process in this thread too.
Thanks for sharing Malibu139 . I also saw this thread a while ago and was really impressed by robo3687's craft, commitment and skill. He also provides fascinating insight into the process of the blood, sweat and tears that goes into constructing something like this from scratch. Hats off, because it’s really admirable.

That said, and let me stress I am not trying to undermine his effort at all, while getting a great deal of things right, the final coat itself, a least to my eyes... was somewhat underwhelming. Perhaps this is also due to the fact that he only posted four quick, somewhat dark, photos of the completed coat.

To me, and I hate to sound like a broken record on this, one of the recurring errors with every coat thus far has been getting the collar right… Unfortunately, in this regard, this coat was no exception...

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Anyway, hopefully we can get more insight on the painting, collar and plenty more, when Egon dives headlong into his K build. Can't wait!
 
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Malibu139

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I just feel bad now. I didn't intend the critique of robo's incredible personal coat build when I linked it for the paint technique information it contained.
 

Egon

Sr Member
I just feel bad now. I didn't intend the critique of robo's incredible personal coat build when I linked it for the paint technique information it contained.
I definitely appreciate the link. Like I had said, I totally forgot about that thread, despite looking at it probably only a few weeks back.

I think that thread stands are a true testament to craftsmanship. Just drafting that pattern (especially at that time - several years ago when less was shown of the jackets used during production) is a gigantic under taking. Let alone constructing two of them.

One thing I have learned over the years of sewing costumes (which I do mostly professionally now) is that a lot of folks under estimate the time and cash it takes to do something like Robo did.

A case in point would be Ghostbusters flight suits. I'm currently working on one, and it is an ass kicker. I don't own a flight suit, so accurately getting the pockets scaled etc is going to be impossible. Plus, the materials and time it takes to create one is WELL above what a company like Magnoli or Gibson and Barnes can charge for a suit. Material costs on my end would be damn near if not over what they charge.

Same can be said for the K jacket.

At the price point of WSL or Soul Revolver, they are truly a steal. No one in a developed country (I hate using that terminology but I don't know how else to articulate it) could charge what they do and not be deeply in the hole between time and money. That is to say that most folks who sew one off costume pieces (EI not having a large scale manufacturing approach like a fashion company) and doing them on demand, and/or made to measure, can't produce them for prices people are able or willing to pay.

*IF* I were to offer our version of Deckard's jacket (which as of now is not in the cards) I would have to charge serious money (think a mortgage payment) to make it reasonable to do. Between approx 15 yards of shell fabric, liner fabric, custom horn buttons, dying process, and around 40-60 hours total, if I were to charge even what Magnoli charges for their version, I would be in the hole.

I can not tell you how many times I have received email inquired from folks wanting a totally custom designed jacket or full costume, provide one or two sketches, and expect Cossky prices/turn around time.

It is not as simple as "here is a drawing/measurements, so I did all the work for you."

This isn't to sound bitter or accusatory of anyone being glib or anything, but if you've ever taken the time to wax a jacket, you know it can be incredibly labor intensive, and a can of wax from Barbour isn't peanuts either.

When folks say "x and y makers don't make it right" that can very well be true. But the process isn't cut and dry - especially fitting proportions into a design that are different than the particular actor on screen. This is also considering some items can be designed and made for certain shots, or functions.

Anyways, I don't mean to derail, as I am planning my version of the K jacket and looking for any resources available - Robos thread being a huge resource.
 

Mechanismo

Active Member
I just feel bad now. I didn't intend the critique of robo's incredible personal coat build when I linked it for the paint technique information it contained.

I don't think my observations were mean-spirited or non-constructive... I certainly didn't mean it that way.

In the end, I think the discussion and analysis here is geared towards achieving the most accurate coat possible. Trial and error is a huge chunk of that and applauding what works as well as identifying the areas that still need room for improvement is part of it.
 

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