RPF Exclusive ANH Obi saber - how should I finish it?

Gigatron

Sr Member
Hey gang,

Way back when, I got in on the RPF exclusive Obi saber. I have everything except the clamp and bubble strip. If anyone knows where to get those, post up :cool.

But, my real question is, how should I finish it; as we see it on film, or like MR's "as first built by"? The problem arises from the simple fact that I already have an "as seen on film". It's one of Parks' saber kits (came with the vader), from way back when he still honored sales.

I'm really happy with the weathering job on that saber, but we know it has inaccuracies, due to limited knowledge of the pieces, back then. So now I have this incredibly accurate, RPF exclusive, saber, and I'm stuck as how to finish it. On the one hand, I don't want two of the same saber. On the other hand, an "as first built by" doesn't actually exist, outside of MR. There's the option of selling the Parks saber, but there is that sentimental attachment, considering all the grief I went through, to actually obtain it. Plus, I REALLY like the way the weathering turned out :lol.


I don't know... post up some opinions or arguments to sway me one way or the other. I've been saring at this saber for so long, it's starting to weather, itself :lol.

-Fred
 
Clamp-"King of Parts" on Ebay. Perfect Replica

Bubble Strip-Phillip on Rebelscum-Again perfect replica, correct number of bubbles, and none cut in half.

As far as finish make it AFB and do better than Master Replicas. The whole neck section looks better in nice polished brass. I'll post up pics of mine ASAP. I have the MR weathered so I wanted a new one like Obi's should have been in Ep 3.

There are plenty of weathered, beaten ones. Make it new and shiny.

IMO of course.
 
BTW the bubble strip should have a piece of mirror type, mylar type kind of strip tape under it. Does not quite look right without it.
 
I have an icons owk I picked up from hms last year and trying to figure on what to do with it.

It was complete minus the clamp and bubble strip. Thankfully a very kind member(also an HMS employee) had an original icons clamp they graciously sent to me to complete it, and I bought a buttload of old icons overstocked bubblestips and various parts from them at the hms yardsale.

It is in afbb condition ATM, but on the fence on beating the crap out of it to make it look more "authentic".

Only reason I am othe fence is that I have not seen many of the icons owk sabers around anymore, and not sure if I want to chance ruining it.
 
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BTW the bubble strip should have a piece of mirror type, mylar type kind of strip tape under it. Does not quite look right without it.

If you really want screen-accurate you'd leave the bubbles without the mylar strip underneath and also take the square-like metal tab from underneath the graflex clamp lever. As for the tiny copper screws in the front of the clamp and the cotter pins through the figure 8 and/or booster bearing in the back that verdict still hangs in the balance whether or not these ever appeared on screen or if they were attached after principle photography had finished. For the rest I totally agree with defstartrooper :D

-Chaim
 
I have an icons owk I picked up from hms last year and trying to figure on what to do with it.

It was complete minus the clamp and bubble strip. Thankfully a very kind member(also an HMS employee) had an original icons clamp they graciously sent to me to complete it, and I bought a buttload of old icons overstocked bubblestips and various parts from them at the hms yardsale.

It is in afbb condition ATM, but on the fence on beating the crap out of it to make it look more "authentic".

Only reason I am othe fence is that I have not seen many of the icons owk sabers around anymore, and not sure if I want to chance ruining it.


My opinion only of course. Don't weather and beat up the Icon. It is rare and one of only two licensed OBI AFB. If you want to weather one or beat one up there are lots of them out there, parts galore.

I just think since the Icon is rare, mint, and now complete beating up something else would be better.
 
If you really want screen-accurate you'd leave the bubbles without the mylar strip underneath and also take the square-like metal tab from underneath the graflex clamp lever. As for the tiny copper screws in the front of the clamp and the cotter pins through the figure 8 and/or booster bearing in the back that verdict still hangs in the balance whether or not these ever appeared on screen or if they were attached after principle photography had finished. For the rest I totally agree with defstartrooper :D

-Chaim

No tape under the bubble strip?? Wow, did not know that. Thanks
 
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