bdgr
Active Member
All,
Here is my version of the ROTJ Force Pike.
Materials:
1) Force Pike Body: 48" Wooden Pool Stick from Wally World
2) Force Pike Tip: Children Medicine Syringe
3) End of Force Pike Tip Nut: 9/16 Hex Nut from Lowes
4) Rasp Base: 1/2 PVC coupling P/N 50105 from Lowes
5) Rasp Teeth: Cut up ABS sheets
6) Force Pike Black Handles: 1 x Hoover Upright 16" Extension Wand Part # 38634078. Cut in two. My old vacuum had two extension wands, so I had a free spare.
7) Force Pike Black Handle Supports: Black O Rings of various sizes
8) Force Pike Pommel: 3/4" PVC Check Valve from Lowes
9) Force Pike Pommel Assembly Screw: Long Black Deck Screw from Lowes
10) Force Pike Paints: Grey Primer, Flat Black, and Silver from Lowes
Detailed Build:
1) Force Pike Body. I removed the little glued on plastic ring at the end of the 48" Wooden Pool Stick that I purchased. It gave a little edge for the Pommel to actually sit on. I sanded the pool stick down to get a smoother surface. A little trick after initial sanding is to spray it with the grey primer, which allowed me to see additional nicks in the wood that I first missed. There was actually a small gouge in the wood that I somehow missed. I filled in the nicks with wood putty, sanded smooth, and sprayed grey primer on the whole body.
2) Force Pike Tip: I used an old Childrens Medicine Syringe. I cut off the tip and filled it with wood putty. The pictures below show the unmodified syringe and a test fitting on the Force Pike Body before I cut off the extra piece at the base.
3) End of Force Pike Tip Nut. I found the perfect size hex nut to fit on my Force Pike. Here is an image of the package it came in.
4) Rasp Base: 1/2 PVC coupling P/N 50105 was used as the base for the Rasp. Here is an image of the Tip, Tip Nut, and Rasp Base before painting.
5) Rasp Teeth: I created a template out of cardboard to make 6 Rasp Teeth out of thick ABS.
6) Force Pike Black Handles. I used an old Hoover vacuum extension wand. It was slightly tapered and could easily be cut with my dremel. I also used various black o rings to help support the handles (7: Force Pike Black Handle Supports). The handles are actually pretty snug without having to use any glue. Below are pics of the black handle before and after cutting it.
8) Force Pike Pommel. I didn't like using a faucet handle and the Obiwan Light Saber Pommel didn't look correct to me, so I found a PVC Check Valve with the general shape of the real Force Pike Pommel images. I had to cut off one of the ends with my dremel and lightly sand it.
9) Force Pike Pommel Assembly Screw. I drilled a larger hole in the end of the pool stick and reused the black rubber end that came with it. The rubber end can be seen in the above picture of the Pommel.
Here are test fitting images of the different components before actual painting.
Below pic is missing the Rasp Base.
Images after painting. Note that the Rasp is not complete. I still need to glue the painted Rasp teeth on the Rasp Base. The tip, tip nut, and Rasp base can easily be removed, since they are not glued to the Force Pike Base.
Here is my version of the ROTJ Force Pike.
Materials:
1) Force Pike Body: 48" Wooden Pool Stick from Wally World
2) Force Pike Tip: Children Medicine Syringe
3) End of Force Pike Tip Nut: 9/16 Hex Nut from Lowes
4) Rasp Base: 1/2 PVC coupling P/N 50105 from Lowes
5) Rasp Teeth: Cut up ABS sheets
6) Force Pike Black Handles: 1 x Hoover Upright 16" Extension Wand Part # 38634078. Cut in two. My old vacuum had two extension wands, so I had a free spare.
7) Force Pike Black Handle Supports: Black O Rings of various sizes
8) Force Pike Pommel: 3/4" PVC Check Valve from Lowes
9) Force Pike Pommel Assembly Screw: Long Black Deck Screw from Lowes
10) Force Pike Paints: Grey Primer, Flat Black, and Silver from Lowes
Detailed Build:
1) Force Pike Body. I removed the little glued on plastic ring at the end of the 48" Wooden Pool Stick that I purchased. It gave a little edge for the Pommel to actually sit on. I sanded the pool stick down to get a smoother surface. A little trick after initial sanding is to spray it with the grey primer, which allowed me to see additional nicks in the wood that I first missed. There was actually a small gouge in the wood that I somehow missed. I filled in the nicks with wood putty, sanded smooth, and sprayed grey primer on the whole body.
2) Force Pike Tip: I used an old Childrens Medicine Syringe. I cut off the tip and filled it with wood putty. The pictures below show the unmodified syringe and a test fitting on the Force Pike Body before I cut off the extra piece at the base.
3) End of Force Pike Tip Nut. I found the perfect size hex nut to fit on my Force Pike. Here is an image of the package it came in.
4) Rasp Base: 1/2 PVC coupling P/N 50105 was used as the base for the Rasp. Here is an image of the Tip, Tip Nut, and Rasp Base before painting.
5) Rasp Teeth: I created a template out of cardboard to make 6 Rasp Teeth out of thick ABS.
6) Force Pike Black Handles. I used an old Hoover vacuum extension wand. It was slightly tapered and could easily be cut with my dremel. I also used various black o rings to help support the handles (7: Force Pike Black Handle Supports). The handles are actually pretty snug without having to use any glue. Below are pics of the black handle before and after cutting it.
8) Force Pike Pommel. I didn't like using a faucet handle and the Obiwan Light Saber Pommel didn't look correct to me, so I found a PVC Check Valve with the general shape of the real Force Pike Pommel images. I had to cut off one of the ends with my dremel and lightly sand it.
9) Force Pike Pommel Assembly Screw. I drilled a larger hole in the end of the pool stick and reused the black rubber end that came with it. The rubber end can be seen in the above picture of the Pommel.
Here are test fitting images of the different components before actual painting.
Below pic is missing the Rasp Base.
Images after painting. Note that the Rasp is not complete. I still need to glue the painted Rasp teeth on the Rasp Base. The tip, tip nut, and Rasp base can easily be removed, since they are not glued to the Force Pike Base.
