Rookie Airbrush Question (sorry - I know you experts are sick of these)

[Jimmer]

After well over a year of model building I have decided to give airbrushing a try.
I know, I should have done it long ago.

Anyway, I have done extensive research but for someone who's never even seen an airbrush used in person there is a lot of info to take in.

What I'm thinking of at present is going with dual-action gravity-fed, but obviously I am open to advice.

One factor is that I'd really like to keep the amount I spend on the airbrush under 70 dollars (ideally under 50). That is just for the brush, I realize I will need a compressor.
I'm honestly not a cheapskate, and fully realize quality is important (and generally has to be paid for), but my logic is that if I really take to airbrushing I can then upgrade if necessary, and if I really don't take to it I haven't spent a large sum that I could have avoided by buying a cheap "tester" brush.
Also, I currently have quite a few hobbies so price is an issue.

Anyway, I looked at 2 brushes on Amazon that are very cheap but had many positive reviews. Still, the price on these 2 are in the "too good to be true category", so I am skeptical of them.
They are:
PointZero Dual-Action 7cc Gravity-Feed Airbrush 3 Tip Set (.2mm .3mm .5mm
and
Pinkiou Double Action Airbrush Kit Air Brush Spray Gun with 0.3mm/0.2mm/0.5mm

If anyone has experience with these I would certainly appreciate your input.
Or if anyone has recommendations for a starter brush (and/or compressor), or input on gravity fed versus other types I'd be grateful also.

I hate to think how many times you guys have regurgitated this topic, so no need for anyone to get lengthy.
(Text can translate awkwardly sometimes, I don't mean to sound condescending by that, I'm extremely grateful for any input, just don't want to take up anyone's time).

I started to go over previous threads, but they get so extensive, and my head's already swimming from watching a couple hours worth of youtube...

Also, if I've broken any protocol by listing specific products please lock/delete thread or notify me and I will.

Almost forgot, if I go gravity fed I'm currently thinking large C-cup (sooo hard not to insert joke there..) with a lid...I already visualize myself spilling paint everywhere.

I'm also mulling over importance of
Preset handle, miniature quick disconnect, moisture trap, and air adjustment regulator.
Hence, the swimming head.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sindariel]

I too bought a cheap chinese airbrush when i started with airbrushing, but it didn't last long. They are ok to make first steps into airbrushing and to see if you like it, but their quality and the results you get are generally bad compared to professional airbrushes. They also come with standard rubber seals instead of solvent resistant PTFE/Teflon seals, which will dissolve quickly if you use agressive thinners/airbrush cleaners. Spare parts are usually not available.
If you're willing to spend a bit more, i suggest taking a look at the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra or the Iwata Neo or Revolution CR. Those are entry level airbrushes from professional airbrush manufacturers and cost between 60-100$. Their quality is great and you won't need to replace them for a long time, if you decide to stick to airbrushing.
You should also take a look at ebay. There are a lot of modelers and artitst out there who own several airbrushes and frequently sell those, they no longer use. I have 3 airbrushes myself, a H&S Evolution 2in1, an Iwata HP-B Plus and an Iwata Eclipse and i bought them all 2nd hand in great condition, saving me hundrets of euros.

 

[edge10]

It is single action, but I recommend the Paasche H. Still made in the USA and it fits in your budget.

I hated my dual action Badger, from years gone by. It was a pain in the bottom to clean. Paasche H single action, plus a switch to acrylics, and clean up and color changes are a breeze.

 

[korben44]

If you are in the US and near an AC Moore arts supply store, get one of their 55% off one item coupons by visiting their website and go pick up the Renegade Krome dual action, gravity fed airbrush. It retails for over $200, but if you use the 55% off coupon, you'll get it at a good price that is comparable to eBay prices. It's the way I got mine and it is a fantastic airbrush.

I would definitely go with a gravity fed setup. I just don't like suction fed airbrushes. For the longest time, I used a cheap $20 compressor then bought a $70 one from Harbor Freight. No issues with either, honestly. It just depends on the amount of airbrushing you will be doing.

 

[patrickivan]

I certainly appreciate the question posed here. I'm also getting ready to pull the trigger on an airbrush purchase. The prices in Canada are just ridiculous as far as I'm concerned.

 

[basementdweller]

Really just buy a $20 ebay dual action airbrush, find a spare tire for air that you fill at the gasstation and an adapter and you are set to go. If you like it - invest in a better one and a proper quiet compressor for your peace of mind and the neighbours/wife/family. I'd say your must haves to begin with is an airbrush thinner. It makes for the biggest difference. Buy one according to what paints you use. Most acrylics do well with isopropyl based ones and it's the best cleaning agent there is undiluted. I still paint with my crappy ebay airbrush, even though it makes me angry at times. I included some pics below as reference. My trigger is sticky, but there are still plenty of uses for it. You can use it for priming if it's too nasty for detail work. There are videos on youtube on how to improve quality of cheap airbrushes by simply sanding the needle. Extra needles are super cheap as well. Not a waste of money imho.

Pictures

Spoiler

I didn't take them, but the Hulk and Black Widow, Motoko Kusanagi and Ohmu are my models. First time user of an airbrush 2015, sadly I have painted very little since then, but hopefully that's about to change.

Old Horizon Hulk which I absolutely adore. I want a few more just to paint because there is so much texture and muscle definition. So many different ways to paint him in. Lovely highlights and shadows can be had here. It's the perfect model to practice airbrushing really. Black Widow from Mobieus was severely flawed. Someone did a write up on how they must've messed up the face angle (she's supposed to be looking to her side like the art on the box) at some point in production. It's true. I moved the hair parting line instead with some milliput.

Poor Ohmu seems a tad to dark here. He has a bit more variance in greens irl and slightly more contrasted. Might be I have a crappy monitor too.

Hard to see, but her suit is first shaded in purple and then highlighted with a pearl effect that shimmers in diferent bluish/pink metallic hues depending on angle. Quite chuffed with this as it came out as I wanted it which never happens. This would never have been possible without an airbrush for me at least. The hardest part was actually thinning and mixing the colours.

All I can say is I am never not going to paint with an airbrush again.

 

[Duncanator]

I agree with edge10. I own a double action Badger (that I hate too), an expensive Iwata that I never use, and a Paasche H that I use all the time. It's easy to clean, and spare parts and tip/needles sizes are easy to get. The Paasche H was the workhorse in the ILM modelshop for the 14 years I was there. One or two folks had special airbrushes for for very particular uses, but everything else was done with the Paasche (or a Binks touch up gun for large models).

 

[Jimmer]

I would definitely go with a gravity fed setup. I just don't like suction fed airbrushes. For the longest time, I used a cheap $20 compressor then bought a $70 one from Harbor Freight. No issues with either, honestly. It just depends on the amount of airbrushing you will be doing.

Great idea on the coupon.
And I have decided on gravity fed from the research I've done.
You bring up a great point to consider with "how much I'll be airbrushing".
I have several hobbies, so generally I work on models an average of 3 to 4 days a week, probably 1 to 3 hours on the days I do. I will factor this in.

Really just buy a $20 ebay dual action airbrush, find a spare tire for air that you fill at the gasstation and an adapter and you are set to go. If you like it - invest in a better one and a proper quiet compressor for your peace of mind and the neighbours/wife/family. I'd say your must haves to begin with is an airbrush thinner. It makes for the biggest difference. Buy one according to what paints you use. Most acrylics do well with isopropyl based ones and it's the best cleaning agent there is undiluted. I still paint with my crappy ebay airbrush, even though it makes me angry at times. I included some pics below as reference. My trigger is sticky, but there are still plenty of uses for it. You can use it for priming if it's too nasty for detail work. There are videos on youtube on how to improve quality of cheap airbrushes by simply sanding the needle. Extra needles are super cheap as well. Not a waste of money imho.

Pictures

Spoiler

I didn't take them, but the Hulk and Black Widow, Motoko Kusanagi and Ohmu are my models. First time user of an airbrush 2015, sadly I have painted very little since then, but hopefully that's about to change.
View attachment 1011414
Old Horizon Hulk which I absolutely adore. I want a few more just to paint because there is so much texture and muscle definition. So many different ways to paint him in. Lovely highlights and shadows can be had here. It's the perfect model to practice airbrushing really. Black Widow from Mobieus was severely flawed. Someone did a write up on how they must've messed up the face angle (she's supposed to be looking to her side like the art on the box) at some point in production. It's true. I moved the hair parting line instead with some milliput.
View attachment 1011415
Poor Ohmu seems a tad to dark here. He has a bit more variance in greens irl and slightly more contrasted. Might be I have a crappy monitor too.
View attachment 1011416
Hard to see, but her suit is first shaded in purple and then highlighted with a pearl effect that shimmers in diferent bluish/pink metallic hues depending on angle. Quite chuffed with this as it came out as I wanted it which never happens. This would never have been possible without an airbrush for me at least. The hardest part was actually thinning and mixing the colours.

All I can say is I am never not going to paint with an airbrush again.

I do have a great set up for using any compressor - I live in TN, literally on a mountain, and can only see one other house from mine. And they are far away. ( And the guy who lives there has a car he races on local tracks, so he has a monster compressor - and we get along famously..lol.
I'm a bachelor (girlfriend at present, but no intentions on settling down) but when she stays at my place and I paint I do it in my garage which is not attached to my house ( it's even on the opposite side of my driveway).
Great work on your statues. The Hulk is really cool and Ohmu is a beauty.
I'm obviously the last person to give advice on this topic, but in my research I came across a product called "Super Lube", which at this point I plan on grabbing (unless someone here has had bad experiences).
I really don't know enough yet to recommend it (obviously), but from what I've read it might help with that trigger. If the trigger's enough of an issue to you to justify trying it.

I agree with edge10. I own a double action Badger (that I hate too), an expensive Iwata that I never use, and a Paasche H that I use all the time. It's easy to clean, and spare parts and tip/needles sizes are easy to get. The Paasche H was the workhorse in the ILM modelshop for the 14 years I was there. One or two folks had special airbrushes for for very particular uses, but everything else was done with the Paasche (or a Binks touch up gun for large models).

Cleaning is an issue I'm being very mindful of. That's one reason I already decided on a large paint cup - easier to get into and clean.
Cleaning is also the reason I will start with acrylics.
I cannot express the wave of life-envy that struck me like a hammer when I read "in the ILM workshop for the 14 years I was there"...lol.
I sooo wish I could spend 14 minutes there.

Thanks so much for the input, guys.
I'm gonna mull it over a couple more days, then make the jump.
No backing out now, I have too many projects rattling around mentally now that I can't wait to start.

 

[Jimmer]

Sindariel, thanks for the info, too.
(Meant to thank you earlier, my mistake).

Ebay is a great suggestion. I use ebay for collecting purposes, don't know why I didn't consider it here.

The cheap rubber seals you mentioned is a prime example of what worries me regarding the "bargain" brushes.
I've become so excited at the prospect of using an airbrush not just for kits but also for customizing 6 inch action figures (so embarrassed confessing that one here..lol) that I can't really imagine I won't enjoy using an airbrush. Especially considering how long I've stuck with building models.
I don't put in the time most of you guys do, but the time I put in has increased steadily since I picked the hobby up, not decreased at all, so I've basically decided to put a little more money toward a quality brush.
Even if by chance I just loathe it I can still sell it, but as much as I've enjoyed painting I really think I'll enjoy it.
Anyway, great advice, and thanks again.

 

[basementdweller]

Bah! I should've linked to this video to begin with instead of yammering on. It says it all basically. I have the same exact airbrush. Only mine cost $12 at the time of purchase.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yammer yammer

Spoiler

While I don't disagree on a cheapo airbrush being cheap, I was just saying you can make it last and you won't have much trouble with rubber seals dissolving if you stick to acrylics and their thinners. Like don't use anything that's got ammonia in it (works until it starts eating your chrome as well). I've got a friend that bought a cheapo rebadged chinese airbrush and he's been shooting everything through it for years (Alclad lacquers being the harshest). Not sure what his seals look like, but his paint jobs have been steadily improving over the years . He's only ruined needles and new ones were $1. Yeah I'm gonna see what I can do about mine. I get resistence at some point as I press down (for air) and that has lead to an unwarrented full blast on more than one occasion as I accidentally bottom out - which I agree is ******** - but you get a feel for it crazily enough and stop doing it. I bought it mainly because I didn't want to ruin the Iwata Hpc I got way back when.

Being afraid of ruining fine things stops many people from doing fun things so I am an advocate of buying stuff you are not afraid to mess up Since you are willing to spend a bit more I'm sure you can find a great brush. I can only speak of my experience with crappy ones . Speaking of, I looked at the ones you are looking at and even if they end up being crappy (I am wary of a brush that does 0.2, 0.3 and 0.5mm needle precision for $25) the stuff you get with it seems worth the spend and the experience. I mean a branded braided hose costs more. Bent needles are fixable etc.

Seems like you got a nice place to paint! That is awesome. Yeah I also read that about superlube and that it was good for dry tip which I got a lot with acrylics. I also read further that you can basically buy some glycerin and use for that or mix in your homebrew thinner to alleviate tip dry. Have yet to try that, but the thinner I got helped A LOT (vallejo airbrush thinner since I mostly have vallejo paints). Understanding consistency through videos unfortunately does not translate well to practical knowledge. You must fail in order to succeed

The other stuff you mention are more quality of life and ease of use stuff that you can add as you go along. You only need a water trap (potentially an oil trap as well if you've got that kind of compressor) if your gear doesn't come with it. I can say I really dig having a preset handle. Who knew that limiting your freedom could be such relief. As for cleaning it's only scary the first time. Cup size makes little difference (...) in my experience. I rarely need to use any cotton swabs during a session, just isopropyl and it works a treat for the acrylics. Ooh - a "cleaning jar" is a must. Actually I'm currently designing a 3D printable one that doesn't suck. I really want to get an ultrasonic cleaner specifically for my airbrush use. Seems like a big quality of life upgrade.

And I love figure customs. Since the GK hobby has gone absurdly obscure or crossed over to straight up collectible statues, converting figures is like an alternative. Would love to see some stuff.

 

[JoeCS]

Not sure which Badger these guys were having trouble with, but I have a Badger 105 Patriot and I love it.

 

[Jimmer]

Hey Basement,
Thanks for the link. Gonna watch the vid after typing this and having a couple of slices for supper.
Agree with your points, and am now back to seriously considering one of the Amazon brushes I originally mentioned.
The 2 things that originally made me take notice of them was a good number of positive reviews and, as you mentioned, you get a lot of equipment/accessories with them.

Another factor being the amount of time I'd use it. I have several other hobbies and a relatively active social life (as much as a 48 year old hillbilly can have an active social life anyway), so excessive use/wear and tear won't be as terrible.
And for the price of those two it's really hard to go terribly wrong anyway, IMO.

I plan on getting at least a middle of the line compressor, by the way.
What I mean by that is I'm not going to go in $200, but I do plan on investing at least $75 dollars. I assume you could have the best brush in the world but if you cheap out on the compressor it's not gonna matter.
* Oddly, I have done absolutely no research on compressors yet, so that $75 I mentioned is an uneducated guesstimate.
If I'm correct, you really do need to choose the right compressor for your brush AND for the type paint you use so I guess realistically I have some more homework to do tonight.

Also, at least starting out, I'm gonna stick with acrylics. Acrylics are what I use now 98% of the time anyway (excluding rattlecans, of course).

Anyway, thanks again to everybody for all the insight. I know this issue has been brought up many times so I really do appreciate the patience and willingness to help everybody in this forum has.

Honestly, if I hadn't gotten so much help and advice when I first got into this hobby, and early on, I probably wouldn't still be at it.

 

[korben44]

I have a cheap version of an airbrush that I bought from amazon as a back up to my renegade krome. Although it does get the job done, it's not as nice to use as my badger. You can tell the difference in quality. I'll use the cheap one for priming and clear coating and my good brush for all the other stuff.

In the end, though, it's never really about the airbrush. It's about you and the techniques you can master with an airbrush. The same results can be had no matter the price or quality of the tools you use. Building models is an art form. The best example I can think of is the Statue of David. Just imagine the types of tools used to create that...

 

[rbeach84]

I purchased a cheap compressor from Wallieworld but one with a two gallon tank. Turned out to be a great little pressor, reasonably quite and turns on and off automatically. I added a water trap but already had dual gauges so I can see and adjust the outlet pressure. I run it at about 40psi and spray acrylics out mostly unthinned perhaps a little water straight in the cup. I keep a rag handy to wipe the tip when the dry tip happens, which it does because of the high pressure. Takes a bit getting used to but tecnique was shared by a pro airbush artist and excellent modeler. Differenr than most advice you see but like any skill find what works by practice and experimentation.
Also, recommend checking out veteran modeler Paul Budik's website scalemodeling worksop. Excellent and entertaining.
Regards, Robert

 

[Jedi Dade]

Regardless of what airbrush you pick here is my advice - PRACTICE. use scrap (I used 2 liter soda bottles). Add greeblies and practice techniques... preshading, spatters, just getting clean layering from the brush. practice thing light layers building color so that you can sort of "weather" with the paint layers. getting varied shading simply by your paint application. intentionally mess something up then "fix it" . YOUR skill will be more important than the actual brush you use... and it will give you a basis for knowing what you like out of a brush. Personally I'd always recommend a dual action brush... But there are times its simply easier to use a single action brush - base coats and primer coats come to mind. Practice....

Jedi Dade

 

[korben44]

Practice does make perfect! However, I must say that I am not a fan of pre-shading... I think the same type of effect can be done with weathering. And, weathering without pre-shading, IMO, gives a more realistic look. But again, that's just me.

 

[acesh007]

I'd suggest getting a cheap airbrush, you can also check out Harbor Freight if one is near you. I learned how to airbrush on a super cheap setup a long time ago. You can get the one with the compressor which is a good airbrush compressor. Once you get use to it you can upgrade to a better airbrush.

 

[Jedi Dade]

As for pre-shading - I've seen it done effectively and not... its a technique for the toolbox... used when appropriate

in particular I like to use a black primer over a light gray base coat for a LOT of SW models... Not exactly preshading - but a kissing cousin. as light "base" coats over the black give a subtle mottled effect that "I" think looks good when weathered over .

Jedi Dade

 

[korben44]

The technique you're describing is a good one... One I would probably use. Here's what else I'll say about pre-shading. The concept behind it seems to artificially give a light and shadow effect to the model. But the problem is that light and shadow change depending on so many things. Why would you want to artificially highlight your model to look one specific way, all the time? The most important part of laying down paint and weathering is layers. The more the layers you have, the more depth you can create.

I could be wrong. But that's my view of preshading. It has that initial wow factor that can be easily eclipsed through superior technique.