ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!

[Chrononaut]

Okay, being nitpicky here, but for the vest: the back is cotton, and the front, front facings, collar, and waistband are ripstop nylon as far as I can tell. What do you guys think about the pockets and flap?

CarpElgin : excellent find on the McCalls pattern. I think View C with shortened sleeves and the right collar will work nicely. And it was on sale for $1.99 at JoAnn's, too

 

[LtCupcake]

I honestly can't tell which fabric the pockets are made of, mostly because of the stitching on the front. In a lot of pictures it looks like the pockets and flap catch the light differently from the nylon fabric, but again, that might just be the stitching? Like in this picture they look different, more like the cotton on the back of the vest, which you can see a little sliver of under her scarf. And it'd be easier to do the pocket weathering on cotton, wouldn't it?


Also, excellent work so far everyone! This thread has been so helpful. I bought some of the Target boots the other day and they're great!

 

[Christian4ever]

Hi everyone! I will prayerfully be making a Jyn Erso costume for comic con at the end of March. I was blessed to make my first costume last year, so I am still a newbie at it. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to make her inner shirt and what is the name of the type of collar used. I was blessed to find a jacket with the right type of collar, but was wanting to find a shirt also. I honestly do not know how to sew very well and have a very limited budget. Any other help would be welcomed as well Thank you for the help and advice! God bless<><

 

[Jaro Krieg]

When I saw this production Picture i noted something familiar

A recent found of the sideshow collectibles stature just proofed i was right.





Visor and Neckflaps are totaly from a German M43 Field cap

While the Dome is from those Commando-Caps

 

[graciefox]

I honestly can't tell which fabric the pockets are made of, mostly because of the stitching on the front. In a lot of pictures it looks like the pockets and flap catch the light differently from the nylon fabric, but again, that might just be the stitching? Like in this picture they look different, more like the cotton on the back of the vest, which you can see a little sliver of under her scarf. And it'd be easier to do the pocket weathering on cotton, wouldn't it?
View attachment 694849

Also, excellent work so far everyone! This thread has been so helpful. I bought some of the Target boots the other day and they're great!

At least on my screen, there seems to be a slight color difference between the pocket and the vest too. I agree it catches the light differently...so I think I'm going to go that route unless we get a different confirmation in the next few days.

 

[verdaera]

Okay, being nitpicky here, but for the vest: the back is cotton, and the front, front facings, collar, and waistband are ripstop nylon as far as I can tell. What do you guys think about the pockets and flap?

It's not ripstop nylon, it's just nylon, probably a little heavier than ripstop. I can't quite tell if the pockets are the same nylon as the front or if it's a cotton like the back, but the sheen that's on it makes me think this is all just a nicer, heavier nylon than the readily available stuff. The flap is nylon.

 

[smithjohnj]

I am often wrong but never in doubt. So I will add some of my new opinions about the vest fabric and garment composition. I am presenting my thinking and reasoning behind it so others can add their own thoughts and make their own decisions. I have no special insight into the actual facts.

Since @spectreseven has confirmed the front of the vest is nylon I have gone back to the original images to look for additional details. From the highly magnified images I still see the weave of the two front pockets as having a diagonal twill weave. These images are clear enough to determine there is definitely not a grid pattern which is characteristic of a rip-stop fabric.

At the same time I still cannot determine a weave pattern of the vest’s base fabric. The surface is either coated, the filaments are too fine to be individually recognized, or the fabric’s reflective/photographic properties are very different than the pocket fabric. Also between some of the horizontal topstitching (mainly visible on the lower part of the vest under the pockets) there is some indication of additional horizontal artifacts. I added this observation in my own original notes but did not share it as I thought it came from the photographic and magnification processes and not the fabric and its appearance was inconsistent. When they are seen, “broken lines” do seem regular enough that they could be a part of the fabric structure. For example the thicker horizontal threads in rip-stop nylon. However, I cannot find any images which suggest the same type of vertical artifact which would also appear in rip-stop fabric. This could be a product of the lighting. Light washing down from above would highlight any horizontal differences, but not the vertical ones. I am not sure if any of the images have a strong side-lit presentation.

If I look at photos of the storm flap on the left side of the vest, there is some evidence of the same type of horizontal artifact as seen in the base fabric (which I had not noticed before). Also the reflective properties of the flap seem to differ from the pocket on the left side. This could mean they are different colors, different fabrics, or both. EDIT: Any color variation could also come from "weathering"

If the base fabric is (rip-stop?) nylon, then I would suggest that the storm flap is also nylon but the pockets are cotton twill which matches the vest’s back. Another observation which I had made before but will repeat here is that the flap also appears to be padded. When viewed on edge it has a thickness which is greater than two pieces of fabric especially if that fabric is thin nylon. I do not believe it is as thick as the vest itself. I am using three layers of cotton batting for the vest and will probably use two layers for the flap.

 

[CarpElgin]

I am often wrong but never in doubt. So I will add some of my new opinions about the vest fabric and garment composition. I am presenting my thinking and reasoning behind it so others can add their own thoughts and make their own decisions. I have no special insight into the actual facts.

Since @spectreseven has confirmed the front of the vest is nylon I have gone back to the original images to look for additional details. From the highly magnified images I still see the weave of the two front pockets as having a diagonal twill weave. These images are clear enough to determine there is definitely not a grid pattern which is characteristic of a rip-stop fabric.

At the same time I still cannot determine a weave pattern of the vest’s base fabric. The surface is either coated, the filaments are too fine to be individually recognized, or the fabric’s reflective/photographic properties are very different than the pocket fabric. Also between some of the horizontal topstitching (mainly visible on the lower part of the vest under the pockets) there is some indication of additional horizontal artifacts. I added this observation in my own original notes but did not share it as I thought it came from the photographic and magnification processes and not the fabric and its appearance was inconsistent. When they are seen, “broken lines” do seem regular enough that they could be a part of the fabric structure. For example the thicker horizontal threads in rip-stop nylon. However, I cannot find any images which suggest the same type of vertical artifact which would also appear in rip-stop fabric. This could be a product of the lighting. Light washing down from above would highlight any horizontal differences, but not the vertical ones. I am not sure if any of the images have a strong side-lit presentation.

If I look at photos of the storm flap on the left side of the vest, there is some evidence of the same type of horizontal artifact as seen in the base fabric (which I had not noticed before). Also the reflective properties of the flap seem to differ from the pocket on the left side. This could mean they are different colors, different fabrics, or both. EDIT: Any color variation could also come from "weathering"

If the base fabric is (rip-stop?) nylon, then I would suggest that the storm flap is also nylon but the pockets are cotton twill which matches the vest’s back. Another observation which I had made before but will repeat here is that the flap also appears to be padded. When viewed on edge it has a thickness which is greater than two pieces of fabric especially if that fabric is thin nylon. I do not believe it is as thick as the vest itself. I am using three layers of cotton batting for the vest and will probably use two layers for the flap.

I definately agree with you that the pockets are the cotton twill. The waistband and collar definately nylon, and I'm honestly not sure about the stormflap.

Especially since we have confirmation that the fronts are nylon, I'm not ready to drop the possibility of a rip stop nylon, because of that texture visible in the super close up pictures. (Also, with all that topstitching it just makes more sense.) I'm in the process of ordering a bunch of swatches of nylon (ripstop and otherwise) to do some tests, but if anyone has some examples already, please share! I really think this can only be solved by testing it.

 

[CarpElgin]

I made some updates on my vest instructions/notes. They are still awaiting a full remake test and photos, but they are a lot closer to usable now.

There hasn't been as much discussion of what padding everyone used, so those parts could definately use some more feedback. (Everything could use feedback honestly!)

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-ZZaQE_FuBxA7c9qRIFdEHxG_3abdsehbqwHOPK9WmI

 

[Chrononaut]

Thanks everyone! I'm also thinking that the pockets are cotton and the flap is nylon. So, my plan for cutting is:

Brown Cotton:
1 back
4 pocket fronts (double layer for both)
4 pocket bottom/sides

Brown Nylon: (I'm still using ripstop, because it will be easier to sew straight lines)
2 front
2 flap
1 collar (doubled)
1 waistband (doubled)
2 front facings
2 armhole facings

Red Cotton
2 front lining
1 back lining (no evidence for this, but seems odd to have the back lining a different color.)

Structural (interior) Fabric Layer (in my case, osnaburg, may also be interfaced if not stiff enough):
1 back
2 front

Felt Layers (approximate, may change):
1-2 flap
2 collar
1+ for each front
(possibly 1 for back?)

Batting Layers (approximate, may change):
1 for each front
1 full back
2+ lower back (shoulder blades down)

Heavy Interfacing: 4 pieces for front edges of waistband (2 each side)

2" Wide Elastic - for waistband

Layers:
1. Back - (lining, added later, not quilted to the rest of the layers), interior osnaburg, (possible felt layer for stiffness), 2 short batting layers, 1 full batting layer, cotton. The batting layers are pad-stitched to the osnaburg, then the brown cotton tie-quilted on top.
2. Fronts - (lining, not quilted), interior osnaburg, batting and/or felt, probably felt as the top layer, nylon vertically hand-stitched to the top
3. Collar - 2 layers of felt sandwiched in nylon, machine "quilted"
4. Flap - 1-2 layers of felt between nylon, machine "quilted"

 

[jenf0arc]

Time to get started ... nice tip on the McCalls pattern, CarpElgin! My fabric looks laughably dark in my weird lighting but ... it'll do for a first go.

 

[graciefox]

I bookmarked a dozen different fabrics for the shirt over the holiday, just to torture myself...here are the few I've narrowed it down to, in case they help anybody:

1) Including this one in silk noil just because I WISH it would work. The texture is likely wrong - silk noil is very slubby and doesn't have any noticeable weave lines - but gosh I love sewing with silk noil and this color is great in person. Plus it always makes me think of Star Wars things, because of my jedi. But probably going to skip it for accuracy.

2) I think this one was already mentioned here. A linen/cotton blend. The only downside of this one is that I've used it before, and it's weirdly bad about piling. EDIT: just pasting the link because for some reason the site wants to redirect: http://bit.ly/2j5iT6K

3) A similar linen/cotton blend, but a slightly more washed-out grey.

4) My current choice because it really does look aged and I'm a fan of the color. Probably lighter weight than Jyn's...I'll just have to see how it drapes: http://bit.ly/2hMFOOX

Knowing me I'll draft the thing and end up dyeing my own, but bookmarks at least make me feel like I'm making some kind of progress. I'm also between these two shades of organic cotton twill for the pockets and back of the vest.

 

[bravoleader]

guys, did anyone source the correct greeblie to attach to the tubings on the front? the looks like PC connectors but is there any specific one that needs to be used?

F

 

[smithjohnj]

I bookmarked a dozen different fabrics for the shirt over the holiday

The "correct" colors are still a challenge and open question for me so I appreciate seeing the choices others are making.

I also looked at silk twill but could never find the right color. I agree it would make a great item. But I ended up with the Graphite linen-cotton blend you mention.

For the vest I also selected the color Nutmeg, but from a different mill. I thought the color was very rich and interesting compared to a generic "brown". My problem now is finding a matching nylon. Looking for both fabrics together limits what was already a narrow set of choices. Also if you are adding the topstitching and vertical quilting to the vest, you may not want to have a base fabric which is too light if you want a good contrast. For example I used Khaki topstitching on the Nutmeg.

 

[graciefox]

The "correct" colors are still a challenge and open question for me so I appreciate seeing the choices others are making.

I also looked at silk twill but could never find the right color. I agree it would make a great item. But I ended up with the Graphite linen-cotton blend you mention.

For the vest I also selected the color Nutmeg, but from a different mill. I thought the color was very rich and interesting compared to a generic "brown". My problem now is finding a matching nylon. Looking for both fabrics together limits what was already a narrow set of choices. Also if you are adding the topstitching and vertical quilting to the vest, you may not want to have a base fabric which is too light if you want a good contrast. For example I used Khaki topstitching on the Nutmeg.

Great point about the top-stitching, thanks! I debated whether or not to go with a lighter twill and nylon and trying to dye them to the same shade, but I thought in the end that might potentially be as tricky as finding them in matching shades to begin with. I've never dyed nylon before. :/

EDIT: although Dharma's acid dyes supposedly work well on nylon, and I look the look of their "tobacco leaf" shade, and "fawn". Decisions decisions.

 

[jenf0arc]

Finished up my shirt using the McCall's pattern and found it very easy to use. A good tool for someone like me who has good sewing skills but who struggles with pattern drafting. Because I used my own collar pattern based on the excellent photos of the collar drafted by @smithjohnj (thank you!!!) and because tabs or pockets aren't necessary, you only need five pieces from the McCall's: the front, the back, the yoke, and both sleeve pieces. I didn't bother interfacing the yoke and I cut a trapezoidal neckline to accommodate my collar (the pattern has a crew neck)


Although not screen accurate, I left in the bust darts because I prefer a more fitted shirt and I reasoned you'll never see them with the vest on anyway, but also plan to add the vertical front waist darts.

I still have to hem it and hem the sleeves but my impression of this pattern is favorable: easy to use and reasonably screen accurate. There are pleats along the yoke line in the back I left in because you'll also never see them, and @smithjohnj pointed out the shoulder seams should be moved back, which I totally missed in the line drawing. At first I thought the yoke looked a little too short but now that it's all together I'm happy with the proportions.


My major problems here have nothing to do with the McCalls pattern. I agonized perfecting the bib pattern and overall I think I ended up with a good shape but it's just a bit too big. The bib is too wide and the collar isn't fitted enough. And obviously the color of the fabric is so laughably off. To my eyes in the store it was a dark blue I thought could be perfect with a mix of color remover and gray dye, but at home it's getting more and purple every time I look at it. It's a rayon/linen blend from Joann's that I bought with a 50% off coupon so luckily not a ton of money wasted there.

While the rayon blend was easy to work with, it's also probably a touch too heavy for this shirt, and will look for something a bit drapier for #2.

Maybe because even with the proportion issues, the collar pattern turned out so much better than I thought it would when I started, I'm actually overall pretty happy with my 1st go. Maybe I'll try color-removing it anyway and keep it as an emergency backup.

 

[jk4reals]

I just got back from my fourth viewing of the movie, and accidentally sat close to the front. Luckily I was able to catch some details (though I'm sure they've already been mentioned).

-The shirt collar/bib has a seam that matches up with the top of the shoulder seam (as seen when Jyn is in the cell).
-The underarm vest patch is viewable under her right arm when K-2 is removing her handcuffs in Jedha.
-The vest has a back yolk that is about four inches from the top (in about the same place where her shirt yolk would be, I imagine).

 

[Chrononaut]

-The vest has a back yolk that is about four inches from the top (in about the same place where her shirt yolk would be, I imagine).

I don't think there is a seam there. I think it's just that the bottom portion of the vest (shoulders down) has more layers of batting than the top of the shoulders, and the short layers end in a squared edge. So it looks like there's a thinner "yoke" above the thicker quilted portion, but it's just less padded. But twist my arm to go see the movie again, haha.

 

[the whiphand]

I don't think there is a seam there. I think it's just that the bottom portion of the vest (shoulders down) has more layers of batting than the top of the shoulders, and the short layers end in a squared edge. So it looks like there's a thinner "yoke" above the thicker quilted portion, but it's just less padded. But twist my arm to go see the movie again, haha.

This is correct, it's just the batting. I have proof on that...

 

[jk4reals]

This is correct, it's just the batting. I have proof on that... View attachment 695601

Ah yes! I see that! Totally wrong on my part: creates quite a shadow line, though.

Also, in regards to the scarf/hood, I am convinced it's a waxed linen, not unlike the fabric Barbour uses for their duralinen jackets...But I know it's just me and I'm crazy.