Resin E-11 WIP. Comments please

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by staermose, May 8, 2006.

  1. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Last Friday I got aresin E-11 in a trade. It was put together and painted. But it had flash, mold lines and huge chunks of resin all over the place that should have been cleaned off.
    There was only one thing to do, take it apart, clean the parts. Put it back together and paint it again.
    The first part that is done is the "M38 A2" Scope. I was going for the aged look on this one. What do you guys think?


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    More pics will follow as I get the rest of it done.



    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  2. TFrosst

    TFrosst Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Very nice. How did you get that aged effect?
     
  3. DL 44 Blaster

    DL 44 Blaster Sr Member

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    Looks good. That's the best part of resin scopes is how easily they weather. Ususally rubbing some gold enamel onto the semi/satin black is a perfect look.

    Steve
     
  4. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TFrosst @ May 8 2006, 10:24 PM) [snapback]1240807[/snapback]</div>

    It was cleaned as best as I could. It was first painted flat black (games workshop chaos black). Then I gave it a semi gloss varnish also from GM. Some metalic blue was mixed with flat black and thinned with water and brushed on. Finally some gold paint was rubbed on in a few places and on the edges was painted gold lines with a thin brush.


    Cheers
    Staermose


    Next the: Hengstler Box
     
  5. scarf man

    scarf man Sr Member

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    Very nice job on the paint, but that's a M38 A2.
    Sorry to say, but the scope you have was not used on any blasters in the OT.
    Great for a custom though.
     
  6. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scarf man @ May 9 2006, 07:48 AM) [snapback]1241080[/snapback]</div>
    Thanks, I didn't know that. I've changed the text in my first post to the correct name.

    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  7. Sidewinder

    Sidewinder Sr Member

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    If you fill in that central 'band' so that it isn't apparent, the scope will look a lot more accurate. Especially with that paint job.

    SAS
     
  8. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    The Hengstler box is cleaned and painted. I'm planning on adding wires to the two cylinders on the magazine housing. I know this isn't the correct Hengstler box for it, but I like the wires and besides it isn't going to be a fully accurate E-11 anyway. Just found the scope is wrong too :unsure .

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    Next to do is the two cylinders. These where horrible. Does anybody have pics of what they should or could look like :confused ? I have loóked at the pics at "the parts of SW" site and in chronicles so far. But if there are any ohter sources I should look at please let me know.

    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  9. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Sidewinder @ May 9 2006, 09:27 AM) [snapback]1241093[/snapback]</div>
    This band?

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  10. Gigatron

    Gigatron Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(staermose @ May 9 2006, 09:46 AM) [snapback]1241099[/snapback]</div>
    This band?

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    That be the one. There's 2 ways to actually go about this and both are fairly simple. You could fill in that area with bondo which would make the area look a bit more correct or, you can simply cut the area out and put the two ends back together using a small wooden dowel as support. I believe the A2 is longer because of that middle section so cutting it out would actually make it more accurate.

    -Fred
     
  11. Sidewinder

    Sidewinder Sr Member

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    Yes that is the area to fill in. Don't cut it out as this will make it too short - the M38A2 is the same length as an M38 or M40 as it is.

    The new profile wants to be like the red lines:
    [attachmentid=7959]

    SAS
     
  12. Buckeye_01

    Buckeye_01 New Member

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    Nice work so far. I really like the 'antique' look to the scope. Can't wait to see the rest of it.
     
  13. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Before I change the scope to look more like a M38 1942 than a M38 A2, I need to know a few things. Does it have any holes like the A2 (see pic)? And does anybody have some closeup pics of a real M38 1942?

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    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  14. Sidewinder

    Sidewinder Sr Member

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    No holes, i'll have a look for a pic.

    SAS
     
  15. Jimbo890

    Jimbo890 Well-Known Member

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    Here is a shot, not so close up, of my real M38:

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  16. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Here is the new version of my scope. Its the same scope as above, with thin sheets of plastic and putty added. And a new paint job. Its not perfect, but its looks more like a M38 1942 than a m38 A2 now. And that is good enough for me. I still need some information on the two small cylinders on the mag housing, if anybody knows anythnig about them. Or has some pics of them.


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    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  17. SaberFreak

    SaberFreak Sr Member

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    wow it almost look like my real M38 :eek

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  18. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Thanks. Those are great pics of the M38. Do you think you could make a close up of this area shown in the pic?

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  19. Hellclaw 01

    Hellclaw 01 Well-Known Member

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    WOW. :confused

    Staermose, that scope looks like the real deal.

    Cool.
     
  20. SaberFreak

    SaberFreak Sr Member

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    I'll take and post close up pic of that area tomorrow. its almost midnight now where I am :p
     
  21. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SaberFreak @ May 10 2006, 03:01 PM) [snapback]1241964[/snapback]</div>
    Thanks, I really appricate that. And if I could ask another favour. Could you aslo get a pic of the text at the and above the lense? I will make a file of of it and print it, so it will match even closer.

    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  22. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Excellent work.

    And that Hengstler is correct.
     
  23. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Treadwell @ May 10 2006, 04:08 PM) [snapback]1241991[/snapback]</div>

    Yes, to a degree. Most of what I know about the E-11 comes from the "Parts of SW" site. And according to them the Hengstler copy I got is correct for the ANH A1 Version, wich was also made from cast parts (just like mine). But there are several features from other variations of the E-11 that I like. I know that my E-11 won't be fully screen accurate, but I can live with that. But it will mostly be a combination of the "ANH A1" and "ANH A2" versions.

    Things that will be wrong with my version of the E-11, according to the "Parts of SW" site.

    1. I will have wires running from the Hengstler box to the two samll cylinders (my hengstler box is the wrong version).

    2. I will have chrome tape covering the shell ejection port. This hasn't been confirmed on the A1 version.

    3. I hvan't seen a postive confirmation on the two cylinders anywhere. That gives a little room for interpretation. I like the red laser in the fan film "IMPS The Relenless". I was thinking af doing the same. If I do that, the cylinders will be wrong as well.

    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  24. scarf man

    scarf man Sr Member

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    GREAT job on the scope. :eek I was sorry to have to tell you about the model mixup, but you came through in true RPF form. :thumbsup If it aint right, make it look right. :D
     
  25. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah, but all your details will be correct to one ANH E-11 or another. I think mixing them still makes your blaster "ANH accurate", imo. It's not like the Bapty guys were following a A-1, A-2, etc pattern, they were just slapping the stuff on there.
     
  26. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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    Like Jay said at least the parts are correct for what Bapty had on hand.
    The variation guide lists basically what variations we had enough info on to confirm in detail. There were more guns made than those.
    I really need to update the E11 pages and the variation guide to add some more info since I've gone through the ANH DVD frame by frame.

    Your scope now looks like the 1943 version of the M38 which MR used on their replica (T shaped front foot). You just need the little indent on the one side with the raised number.
    Lookin good.
     
  27. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lonepigeon @ May 10 2006, 06:57 PM) [snapback]1242072[/snapback]</div>

    :confused

    Oh....


    ... well, the "T" shaped front foot is almost gone. Its halfway covered in sheet plastic now.... :lol

    I was thinking, If I'm going to alter this scope, why not get it as close as posible. It only a few Minor details that need to be changed to make look like a M38 1942. Not exactly like it, but close.

    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  28. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Before I make the final changes and give it a third paint job is there anything else I should consider changing?

    Changes so far:

    1. Changed the middle band. Done

    2. New holes and detail on the left side. Waiting for close up photos :D

    3. Changing the "T" shaped foot to a solid block. Almost Done (I'm working on it right now)

    4. The letters on the lense is stamped. Have I seen some M38 1942's with a small paper sticker there, or am I imagening things? If they should be stamped, I will just fill in the "A2" letters on this one. If there is a sticker I will probably make a file and print it, if I can find a close up pic of it.

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    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  29. Sidewinder

    Sidewinder Sr Member

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    I would just fill in the 'A2' part, i've only ever seen stickers on A2s so I would not put one on yours.

    Bloody good job overall that man.

    SAS
     
  30. SaberFreak

    SaberFreak Sr Member

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    As promised, here are the pics:

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  31. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Thanks for the pics. They have been very helpfull :thumbsup

    Here is what I hope is the final version of the M38 A2 scope changed to look like a M38 1942.

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    To illustrate how much I have sanded removed resin chunks with my Dremel, here are some pics of the Sterling as it looks right now. When I got it, alle the parts was glued together and it was painted flat black. I haven't done anything to remove any paint. All the exposed resin is a resuslt of me removing unwanted dirt in the casting.

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    The area between the folding stock and the handle was completely filled with reisn. It looked like there was alot of paly doh pushed in there before the molds was made. I'm trying to remove as much as possible. And I will have to rebuild the top of the handle where it meets the body of the Sterling. At the front the scope I even removed a smale piece of white rubber.... probably from the mold.

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    The area with the front sight was a mess of resin chunks. It was easier to just remove all of it and rebuild the it.

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    These two close ups shows what it looked like before I removed unwanted resin and what it looks like after (I have only done one side so far)

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    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  32. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Good work there. I'm looking forward to seeing the result. :)
     
  33. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Here is how my two small cylinders look right now. I'm rebuilding the ones that came with the kit. They just a pile of .... What do you guys think? Should I change add anything before i weather them?

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    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  34. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Let me first say, Thank you, to everybody who have helped me so far. My E-11 would have been far from accurate without your help.

    Are there anybody who knows anything about the two small cylinders? I would like to know if they are fine or if I should change anything before i weather them.



    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  35. Sidewinder

    Sidewinder Sr Member

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  36. staermose

    staermose Sr Member

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    Thank you very much. And let me just say, that is one nice looking rifle you got there.


    Cheers
    Staermose
     
  37. Sidewinder

    Sidewinder Sr Member

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    Thanks, apart from the cylinders (which came from a board member's run) its 100% original parts. :)

    SAS
     

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