Ready, Set... CW Flash WIP (Pic Heavy)

Discussion in 'DC Costumes and Props' started by SMP Designs, May 25, 2015.

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  1. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I've got a new project started (and it's not a Captain America!). I've been looking around and getting reference from the client and was able to jump into getting this one going last week. Here are a few of the reference images from the library I have.

    flash-ref-2.jpg flash-ref-6.jpg flash-ref-8.jpg
    Like most projects, this one begins with the creation of the fitting mock up. In order to create this, I get the client to fill in a measurement card and send it back along with several pictures. I then create a basic pattern based on that information. The new seams are drawn on and this will become the pattern for the mock up. Somewhat ironically, this base pattern is being created using a pattern I drafted a couple of years ago for a Smallville/comic hybrid version of Booster Gold.

    flash-pattern-1.jpg flash-pattern-2.jpg
    This piece is cut apart, traced onto paper and used to cut the mock up and will serve as the first draft of the actual garment patterns. Those patterns are then used to cut similar fabrics to the final - we need heavy-weight fabrics in some places and stretch fabrics in others - and the fitting mock up is sewn together. Since this mock up is in bright red and the camera kind of blew out the color, I've added some lines onto the images to highlight the seams and where the gold lines will eventually go.

    flash-mock-1a.jpg flash-mock-2a.jpg
    Seam lines at this point are not final. Some will be moved, some will be eliminated and some will be added. The main point at this stage is to ensure that the fit, proportions and planned structure will be correct for the client. The next step with this mock up is to add the collar and make a simple pant mock up. Then, these will go off to the client for a fitting.

    In the meantime, in conversations with the client, we decided that we wanted to print some sections of the suit to get the pattern and color down. So, we collaborated on the pattern and have got it 90% finalized.

    flash-fabric-draft-1.jpg
    Once finalized via a test swatch, the printed yardage will be ordered.
    More to come...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  2. Crocoboxer

    Crocoboxer New Member

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    Looks awesome! Where do you get the fabric printed? Will it be high density screen printing?
     
  3. Iggy

    Iggy Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I missed this post! This is looking great! :D
     
  4. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! I'll be going to Fabric on Demand. I'll get a sample first and see how it comes out. I'll have it printed on their spandex and then will fuse the pieces to a jumbo spandex or ponte to give it more thickness and body.

    Thanks! The mock up is almost done - I'll be posting more pics over the weekend. :)
     
  5. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Finally back on this project and have enough to share a decent update. So, picking up where I left off...

    Once we had the design finalized, the fabric was printed by Fabric on Demand and the faux leather was purchased. Here are the final fabrics for the suit.

    flash-fabric.jpg

    The fitting was completed with the client and the mock up was returned with notes and markings for some sizing adjustments that needed to be made. I began with the jacket and revamped the pattern to both accommodate the alterations and incorporate some adjustments to the seams based on my research library for the costume.

    flash-mock-3.jpg flash-mock-4.jpg flash-pattern-3.jpg

    With the new pattern completed, I began constructing the body of the jacket. The printed fabric is a 4-way stretch and is fairly thin, so I decided that the costume needed to be backed with ponte to give it some extra body. However, simply backing each piece and then assembling the jacket made the seams too bulky - especially where the gold piping was being inset.

    The answer to this was to make some sections of the jacket as a single layer shell and then line that section with ponte. Going with this strategy, I decided it was best to assemble the jacket back-to-front.I began with the center back pieces - single layer- and then the lower sides with the gold detail and the mid-sides.

    flash-jacket-1.jpg flash-jacket-2.jpg flash-jacket-3.jpg

    This entire section was made in just the shell fabrics and then a ponte version was made and flat-lined that to it.

    Next, I moved on to the rib section.I wanted to try to emulate the dimensional effect of the ribs on the actual costume, so I tacked some headliner foam to the shell pieces with Super 77 and stitched the detail lines through the layers. The back section of this piece was cut from the shell, lined with ponte and attached at the side. The entire rib piece was then attached to the main back piece of the jacket.

    flash-jacket-4.jpg flash-jacket-5.jpg

    The next pieces to add were the chest pieces. These pieces were cut from the faux leather and backed with headliner foam to give them some added structure to support the zipper and resin emblem.

    flash-jacket-6.jpg

    These pieces also feature an overlap on the zipper and a curved edge on the left side for the emblem where the zipper is centered down the rest of the jacket. More on that to come...In the meantime, the chest pieces and the center front stomach pieces are added to the rest of the jacket body.

    flash-jacket-7.jpg

    Here's the jacket at this point.

    flash-jacket-8.jpg flash-jacket-9.jpg

    Next up - waistband, zipper, collar and sleeves.


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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  6. E60flip345

    E60flip345 Well-Known Member

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    Freaking Amazing.... Subscribed

     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  7. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks!
     
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  8. Graphic Jordan

    Graphic Jordan Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is seriously GORGEOUS work Sean! Can't wait for more updates.
     
  9. Mr.Spider

    Mr.Spider Well-Known Member

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    always in awe, I wish I could sew. I always got the thread stuck and it would bunch up on me. just plain gave up after that with fabric of any kind.
     
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  10. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! Usually, thread bunching is either a tension problem or the needle is not the right size or is not facing the right direction.
     
  11. Vox

    Vox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    You, sir, are a wizard, and this is awesome. I always enjoy your builds, and hope to employ many of your strategies if/when I tackle Cyclops's red Marvel Now suit next year. Keep up the phenomenal work!
     
  12. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks man! Marvel Now Cyclops - that's a good one!
     
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  13. pinder91

    pinder91 Sr Member

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    More! More! :popcorn :cool
     
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  14. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Time for a Flash update!

    Picking up where I lift off on the jacket, the next step was to complete the facing on the upper left side. The zipper is centered down the rest of the jacket, but the left side of the chest has to have an overlap with a curved section to hold the emblem. The facing was cut to match the shape of the left side of the chest and stitched down, turned under and top stitched.

    flash-jacket-10.jpg flash-jacket-11.jpg flash-jacket-12.jpg

    Once the facing was in place, the zipper was set in. I then moved on to the sleeves.

    The sleeves have a segmented section in the back that accommodates the bend in the elbow. To create this area, I created a template of the segments on the paper pattern and used that as a guide. I cut the entire sleeve section from a solid piece of stretch ponte. Then, I cut 2" strips of faux leather and, using Super77, tacked under the edges to create a finished 1" strip. The strips were then stitched down to the base working from bottom to top and all the faux leather was trimmed to the proper shape.

    flash-jacket-13.jpg

    The shoulder and back piping were added next and then the front of the sleeve and the front section of piping. Lastly, the cuff with the thumb loop addition was added and the whole bottom edge was finished with top stitching. There's also a 7" zipper in the back of each cuff.

    flash-jacket-14.jpg flash-jacket-14-1.jpg flash-jacket-15.jpg flash-jacket-16.jpg flash-jacket-17.jpg

    The last major component to the jacket was the collar. The collar was made of faux leather with a section of the stretch in the back. The collar is also oversized for the neck so that it will accommodate the cowl that needs to fit underneath.

    flash-jacket-18.jpg flash-jacket-19.jpg

    Here is the jacket at this point.

    flash-jacket-20.jpg flash-jacket-21.jpg

    The last things to do on the jacket are small finishing closures on the collar and chest flap, the velcro for the emblem, finishing on the zippers and the thumb loops and binding on the bottom.

    Then, it's on to the pants!


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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  15. Na16Patman

    Na16Patman New Member

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    This is just incredible! Love seeing how others work, even if it does make me feel so inferior with my own skills hah.
     
  16. Iggy

    Iggy Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The jacket looks AMAZING! Can't wait to see the pants! :thumbsup
     
  17. Mystery

    Mystery Well-Known Member

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    This is incredible dude :thumbsup
     
  18. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks guys

    I'm really pleased with the way it's coming out. Frankly, I was a bit frustrated at first with the dye sub Lycra on something this structured. It was too thin on its own, but just slightly too thick when backed. Plus, adding in the piping created some bulk issues in the seams and intersections. It did take some experimenting to get it to behave properly, but it's turning out quite well, I think.

    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2015
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  19. jasonsshin

    jasonsshin Active Member

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    This is incredible craftmanship. Really digging it :thumbsup
     
  20. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank you! :)
     
  21. ForesakenFaerie

    ForesakenFaerie New Member

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    This is coming together really well. Are you planning to attach the hood to it or just leave the collar is?
     
  22. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! The collar will stay like this - he has one of the Rocketeer cowls to wear with it.
     
  23. Spartan427

    Spartan427 New Member

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    Hey SMP I literally rarely ever use my RPF account but I'm doing flash for my kids on profit charity. I have ordered my cowl from.a friend in the states but I'm extremely picky about ensuring the suit is going to be as high quality as the cowl is. We work with big name groups like the kids hospital and make a wish and children's wish foundations etc so the suits need to look 100% believable. Are you making these suits available upon commission request and what would you charge me. Can you private message me via email c3directordave@gmail.com ?

    I'm most impressed and don't believe any other suit would do The Flash justice. This show is also my favourite to the point I'm thinking of getting a Flash tattoo lol so I definitely would be thrilled to have one of your flash suits.
     
  24. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'll email you and we can discuss, thanks!
     
  25. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    OK guys - here come the pants!

    Before finishing the jacket, I wanted to get the pants together to make sure everything would line up properly. I began by altering the pattern according to the mock up that was fitted and started cutting the pieces. The upper sections of the front were assembled first with the piping that forms the top line of the lightning bolt. Next, the sections above the knee were assembled with their part of the bolt.

    flash-pants-1.jpg

    Before joining these two pieces and completing the bolt, I wanted to build the segmented knee area and add the lower front of the leg. The segmented knee was built with the same method as the backs of the elbows. The first step was to make a template of the entire knee and lower leg from the base pant pattern. There are four angled segments on the knee that are cut, edges folded under and stitched to the ponte base.

    flash-pants-2.jpg

    Once the template was complete, the ponte base was attached to the lower thigh and the segments were cut and sewn down. To make sure the segments had nice, crisp finished edges (and that the edges stayed under while I was stitching them), I lightly sprayed the back of each segment with Super77. I then folded the edges under (1/2" allowance - my standard) and the open area on the back of the segment helped to tack it to the base and keep it in place while stitching.

    flash-pants-3.jpg flash-pants-4.jpg

    Once the lower fronts were assembled, I joined the thighs to complete the bolts and finished them off with all the top stitching detail.

    flash-pants-5.jpg

    Moving on to the back, I began at the top and worked my down each leg. The upper back segmented areas were assembled first. Then the rest of the legs moving down to the segmented section that makes up the back of the calf.

    flash-pants-6.jpg flash-pants-7.jpg

    Finally, the fronts were joined to the backs at the outseam, the side panels were added and all the rest of the finishing (fly, inseams and waistband) was completed. Here are the completed pants by themselves.

    flash-pants-8.jpg flash-pants-9.jpg

    And with the jacket. Note that the bottoms of the bolts on the jacket don't quite line up to the pants. This is why I didn't want to completely finish the jacket before the pants were done. It's a fairly simple process at this point to alter those seams to make everything line up, but it wold have been much more complicated if the bottom of the jacket had been finished.

    flash-full-1.jpg flash-full-2.jpg

    That small detail will be fixed and the jacket details will be finished. Then, it's on to the boots, gloves and belt.

    Stay tuned!


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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  26. Iggy

    Iggy Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Holy cow! That looks awesome. :D :D :D
     
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  27. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! Going to be getting him finished up in the next week - more to come soon!
     
  28. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It's the finishing update on this one - he's off today to his forever home. Here's how it all wrapped up (on my end, anyway).

    I fixed the angle of the jacket trim to line up with the pants and then finished off the bottom edge of the jacket. The final details on the jacket were the snaps to hold the chest flap down, the velcro for the emblem and the zippers in the sleeves.

    flash-jacket-22.jpg flash-jacket-23.jpg flash-jacket-24.jpg

    With the jacket complete, I decided to take care of the gloves next. Using a basic pattern, I cut the upper hand and thumb from the patterned stretch material and the palm and inner thumb from the faux leather. These sections were stitched together to join the main pieces for assembly (note the solid red index and middle finger sections).

    flash-gloves-1.jpg flash-gloves-2.jpg

    Next, the thumbs were attached and then it was time to add the fourchettes. Fourchettes (when referring to gloves) are simply strips of fabric that attach the upper and under sections between the fingers. Here are the fourchettes sewn in and the completed gloves.

    flash-gloves-3.jpg flash-gloves-41.jpg

    The wrists were finished with a simple band of the patterned stretch fabric that extends up into the sleeve.The next major component to tackle was the boots. The base shoes for the boots were a pair of New Balance Minimus trainers. I began by using some scraps of comparable faux to 'sketch' out the pieces for the boots based on my reference images.

    NB-Minimus.jpg flash-boots-1.jpg

    Once I had a decent mock up together, I was able to transfer the pieces to paper and refine the pattern.

    flash-boots-3.jpg flash-boots-4.jpg

    It was then time to begin cutting and assembling the actual pieces. I began with the toe detail. I backed the gold fabric with a heavy broadcloth for stabilization and stitched the red section to it.

    flash-boots-5.jpg

    I then assembled the center front section with the gold detail. This entire section was backed with headliner foam to pad it and provide the dimensional detail.

    flash-boots-6.jpg

    The inner sides with the zippers were next. Both sides of the boots were lined in the same faux leather to provide support for the shape. The inseam was stitched up 2" from the bottom and the allowance was spray mounted down to the inside and rolled with a pin to get a nice, crisp edge.

    flash-boots-7.jpg flash-boots-8.jpg

    Once this was done, the zipper could be easily stitched in without worry of the faux stretching or twisting.

    flash-boots-9.jpg

    The outer side was lined in the same manner and both sides were attached to the front. The center back was finished and the top edge folded over and finished. Here is the completed shaft flat and on the base shoe.

    flash-boots-10.jpg flash-boots-11.jpg

    Next the upper was attached to the shaft, the whole thing fitted to the base, trimmed and glued in place.

    flash-boots-12.jpg flash-boots-13.jpg flash-boots-14.jpg

    The final piece of this puzzle was the belt. With the boots taped up and setting, I moved on to the pattern.

    flash-belt-1.jpg

    The belt is solid in the back and attaches to the buckle in the front with about a 2" gap. The lining of the belt has 4 snaps embedded into it that will hold it to the bottom of the jacket. Once the snaps were attached, the lining was spray mounted to the outer belt and the whole thing was edge stitched together.

    flash-belt-2.jpg

    For the buckle, I decided to use foam. I created the template in paper and bevel-cut the flat shape from 1/4" eva foam. I then cut a bevel out of the back down the center, ran a bead of hot glue down it and folded it slightly to create the crease in the front of the buckle.

    flash-belt-3.jpg flash-belt-4.jpg flash-belt-5.jpg

    I then spray mounted faux leather to the front of the buckle and stretched it over all the bevels. Lastly, I glued and trimmed the allowance to the back of the buckle to finish it off.

    flash-belt-6.jpg flash-belt-7.jpg

    To attach the belt to the jacket, I created tabs with snaps that are stitched to the bottom edge of the jacket. These align with the snaps on the belt and ensure that it will not twist, fall or rise up during wear. The buckle attaches with industrial strength velcro.

    flash-belt-8.jpg flash-belt-9.jpg flash-belt-10.jpg

    The client has the bolts that go on the belt, so he will attach those himself. Here are pictures of the completed costume.

    flash-complete-1.jpg flash-complete-2.jpg flash-complete-3.jpg flash-complete-4.jpg

    I'll be posting pictures of the costume in action as I receive them from the client (or, he might post some himself). Stay tuned!


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    NB-Minimus.jpg

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  29. AdamTooler

    AdamTooler Active Member

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    SMP Designs,wow,looks amazing :) btw will you make a leather cowl/mask for the suit ?? i ask you this 'cause i have some cool ideas for the cowl/mask

    - - - Updated - - -
    SMP Designs,wow,looks amazing :) btw will you make a leather cowl/mask for the suit ?? i ask you this 'cause i have some cool ideas for the cowl/mask
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  30. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! No, I'm not making the cowl.
     
  31. collector74

    collector74 Active Member

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    This looks really good. Nice to see more sewing skills. Would be interested if you ever decide to do a Zoom outfit. I think it is the same, minus some subtle differences.
     
  32. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! No plans as of now to do Zoom, but that doesn't mean I won't.
     
  33. JDVaughan17

    JDVaughan17 Active Member

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    Do to sell these, or was this just a one-time thing?

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
     
  34. Iggy

    Iggy Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sean does commission work, so this was a one-off commission. He does not stock these suits. ;)
     
  35. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah, as Iggy said, all of the things I post are commissions (on occasion, they are for me). Everything is custom and made-to-order.
     
  36. PunisherNC

    PunisherNC Well-Known Member

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    Holy smokes, man. You are crushing this! Great job!
     
  37. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey, thanks, man! I'll be getting that DD suit back to you soon for pics ;)
     
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  38. RiotJavelinDX

    RiotJavelinDX Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tagging for future reference
     
  39. RiotJavelinDX

    RiotJavelinDX Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    How thick was the foam fabric you used for the 3D pieces?
     
  40. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I typically use 3 types of foam for costumes - 1/4" headliner foam, 1/4" craft foam and 1/8" craft foam. Which one is used when depends on the section of the costume. Most of the time I try to identify what I'm using in the threads.
     
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  41. joshspiderman23

    joshspiderman23 Sr Member

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    wow this turned out fantastic, really awesome work cant wait to see it all together
     
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  42. Maxwellarts

    Maxwellarts New Member

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    It is a fantastic job on that costume! Can I ask where you purchased the faux leather? I've got the same thing in green (I can tell from the light brown backing) but don't know the company that makes it and can no longer find it in my local fabric stores. I'm hoping to locate the red faux leather.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2016
  43. bookworm

    bookworm New Member

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    That is an absolutely amazing job!!
     
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  44. Micke barks

    Micke barks New Member

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    Hola felicidades por el trabajo solo una pregunta los patrones los podrías compartir o tiene costo amigo saludos.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  45. CapKaos

    CapKaos Well-Known Member

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    Dude, ANOTHER stellar build! Thinking about a Jay Garrick build and you're of course the first person I thought of, especially after the amazing Kyle Rayner suit you did for me. Again, amazing work!

    - Aeric
     
  46. SMP Designs

    SMP Designs Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey, thanks man! :)
     

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