Question re: Thinning Acrylics

adphill

Member
Any recommendations for the physical process of mixing paint and thinner?

I have historically only airbrushed with Tamiya acrylics. Tamiya paints only come in jars, so I buy dropper bottles in bulk and pre-mix the paint and the thinner together, along with a glass bead.

However, I have recently begun using Mig acrylic paints, which are already in dropper bottles. When thinning paint like this, do people typically just squirt the paint and the thinner into the airbrush cup and swirl? Or mix on the side and pour into the cup?

Any suggestions are appreciated!
 
I'm a proponent of mixing outside the cup. Mainly because I use a variety of paints and sometimes have to very thoroughly mix the paint to get it thinned without clumps. This also gives me leftover paint in case I need to use that color again in the future. My ideal way of airbrushing is to use the bottom feed brush with a strainer on the syphon tube.
 
I use a mini paint mixer (battery operated) and do it right in the cup on the airbrush. I use a gravity fed airbrush, but a siphon fed one would work that way, too. I mainly use Tamiya Acrylics and Mr Surfacer on my models. Haven't really had any issues.
 
If it's just a small amount of paint I thin it in the cup, but always put in the thinner first (I have been using isopropyl alcohol to thin based on a YouTube video and so far it has worked great). For larger amounts, or if you may need it later, I would mix externally.
 
I am about to use Vallejo Black Shade Game Color Wash for the first time (on the bone colored parts for Bandai General Grievous).
Of course, I will play around using it on a few junk parts, but to anyone who has used this should it be thinned? (Or any other recommendations)?
Thanks
Adphill, not trying to hijack your thread, just hated to start a new one since this involved thinning acrylics.
 
I am about to use Vallejo Black Shade Game Color Wash for the first time (on the bone colored parts for Bandai General Grievous).
Of course, I will play around using it on a few junk parts, but to anyone who has used this should it be thinned? (Or any other recommendations)?
Thanks
Adphill, not trying to hijack your thread, just hated to start a new one since this involved thinning acrylics.

Those washes are already pretty well thinned, you should be fine to just apply it to the plastic
 
I am about to use Vallejo Black Shade Game Color Wash for the first time (on the bone colored parts for Bandai General Grievous).
Of course, I will play around using it on a few junk parts, but to anyone who has used this should it be thinned? (Or any other recommendations)?
Thanks
Adphill, not trying to hijack your thread, just hated to start a new one since this involved thinning acrylics.

It all depends on how you want your weathering to look... I thin my washes depending on how dark I want them to show up and according to the subject matter... The thing is that modeling is an art form. For me, it's about replicating what I see in real life. There are no right or wrong ways to do it... The best thing is to play around with your weathering materials to see what makes it look best for you.
 
Thanks everybody, this is very helpful.

If it's just a small amount of paint I thin it in the cup, but always put in the thinner first (I have been using isopropyl alcohol to thin based on a YouTube video and so far it has worked great). For larger amounts, or if you may need it later, I would mix externally.

What brand of paint are you thinning with the alcohol? I have a bottle at home from the drugstore, I might try that.
 
I've thinned both Tamiya and Vallejo paints. I experimented a bit first with actual airbrush thinners but the alcohol works just as well and is a lot cheaper.
 
I've thinned both Tamiya and Vallejo paints. I experimented a bit first with actual airbrush thinners but the alcohol works just as well and is a lot cheaper.

I use a mixture of distilled water, isopropyl alcohol, a few drops of acrylic retarder, and an acrylic flow improver. Works really well.
 
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