Question about weathering..or help a noob!

[Cameron]

I am about to weather up a Training remote and I see a black wash is recommend. Ive never used a wash and I was wondering about a few things.
What type of paint does everyone use?
What do you thin with and at what mix percentage ?
How long do you leave it on?
What do you use to apply / remove?

Hopefully one of you wonderful modelers can help a noob out.
Many thanks
Cam

 

[who45]

i used a mig pigment: black smoke: its a powder based fine pigment brush on or if a heavier tint required rub on, then seal with a matt spray

tamiya do a smoke acrylic for airbrushing

for my weathering the mig powder went on a base krylon paint and hand brushed humbrol enamel, this was my first weathering attempt

before

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and after:

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the armour unweathered

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and the whole armour weathered as i wanted a used, grubby been in a few battles look:

[/IMG]

 

[SmilingOtter]

My understanding is that washes are best done in a different type paint than was used on the model. That keeps the thinner in the wash from messing up the base coat.
(Acrylic wash over enamel paint, for example. Or vice versa.)

You also want to go at it by dirtying up the thinner, rather than thinning the paint.

How long you leave it is up to you, based on how much of an effect you want. The longer you wait, the more it'll dry.

 

[Sluis Van Shipyards]

Right. When I did my remote (after Frank Cerney did the Modeler's Resource article) it was the first time I used a wash. I think I used a black or brown and then rust. Practice on something you can mess up though!

 

[franz bolo]

I sometimes use water based acrylic for washes. I only use them for panel lines and things that are indented. Weathering powders, in my opinion, are the best thing for weathering.

Much easier to fade and control.

FB

 

[Cameron]

I need a WIP opinion. More less? I know its hard to make out via pic.
View attachment 64080

 

[blip]

Isn't there a clear shot of the remote in one of those Star Wars technical books? You could match that. I'll see if I can post one later.

Come to think of it, some prop guys told me they used coffee for the yellowed look.

 

[ralphee]

IMO stay away from using any acrylic for washes, they just dont seem to flow well, Humbrol's mixed to thinners work well, as do oils, but there is a trade off in drying time, or, you can just seal it up with Dullcote.

Pigments to Tamiya thinners, very cool effects agreed, you can really get a super thin mixture, that is easily cleaned off if it looks off too.

lee

 

[CaptainDave1701]

Liquid black shoe polish has worked well for me. You rub it on and wipe it off. This stains what you are working on and it can be further weathered with a light steel wool. I used this technique on the recent Galactica model and it worked very well. There is a vid on Youtube somewhere of this being done.

 

[Cameron]

Thanks gang for all the help advice and pics. Your all awesome!

 

[JMChladek]

I've done washes with both acrylics and enamels. The trick to doing them with acrylics is to add a drop of soap to the wash water to break the surface tension, otherwise the wash will bead up like rain drops on a freshly waxed car. Doing acrylic washes over acrylic paint works fine if you give two days for the acrylic paint to fully cure first.

Enamel washes flow better, but if you are doing them over an enamel basecoat, you can soften the base paint way too easily unless you give the model a REALLY long time for the base paint to cure. Enamel washes work great over acrylics.