Products that were not intended to be used in model making but work anyway

If you want to make a jig or tool non-slip, there are very cheap rubber mesh non-slip grip liners for car boots/trunks and kitchen surfaces that can be cut to shape and attached to the underside using double sided tape. I have them on the bottom of bench hooks, homemade chopper, etc, and they're a game changer. I got the idea from modelmaker David Neat who explains it better than I could, with photos. The handheld block with the same material attached, to grip what you're sawing, also works a treat. I also use the stuff to create a seal for my vacuum former, just cut to the size of the base plate with an appropriate hole where the vacuum pulls through.

 
If you want to make a jig or tool non-slip, there are very cheap rubber mesh non-slip grip liners for car boots/trunks and kitchen surfaces that can be cut to shape and attached to the underside using double sided tape. I have them on the bottom of bench hooks, homemade chopper, etc, and they're a game changer. I got the idea from modelmaker David Neat who explains it better than I could, with photos. The handheld block with the same material attached, to grip what you're sawing, also works a treat. I also use the stuff to create a seal for my vacuum former, just cut to the size of the base plate with an appropriate hole where the vacuum pulls through.

For small stuff like press-fit linings for rechargeable battery compartments, I usually cut up those car dashboard non-slip mats from the dollar store.
 
If you want to make a jig or tool non-slip, there are very cheap rubber mesh non-slip grip liners for car boots/trunks and kitchen surfaces that can be cut to shape and attached to the underside using double sided tape. I have them on the bottom of bench hooks, homemade chopper, etc, and they're a game changer. I got the idea from modelmaker David Neat who explains it better than I could, with photos. The handheld block with the same material attached, to grip what you're sawing, also works a treat. I also use the stuff to create a seal for my vacuum former, just cut to the size of the base plate with an appropriate hole where the vacuum pulls through.

I was struggling with opening a jar at my mom's, about a week ago. I said, "Do you have a jar lid gripper?" She hands me this shelf liner you just mentioned. My life changed instantly. I will be making gloves with this as the palm material.
 
If you want to make a jig or tool non-slip, there are very cheap rubber mesh non-slip grip liners for car boots/trunks and kitchen surfaces that can be cut to shape and attached to the underside using double sided tape. I have them on the bottom of bench hooks, homemade chopper, etc, and they're a game changer. I got the idea from modelmaker David Neat who explains it better than I could, with photos. The handheld block with the same material attached, to grip what you're sawing, also works a treat. I also use the stuff to create a seal for my vacuum former, just cut to the size of the base plate with an appropriate hole where the vacuum pulls through.


I saw a guy on a woodworking Youtube channel who made bench cookies (little pucks with nonslip material - you put a board on them to use a plane so the board won't slide, for example) and he used nitrile cork sheet to make a non slip surface. Not sure how well cork, rubber impregnated or not, would hold up though.
 
One thing I would have loved to see Mythbusters do?

Nitroglycerin in bubble makers...seeing a tiny bubble hit a Starship model like it was a Lyran expanding sphere from Star Fleet Battles :)

A question:

I saw a rubber disk about a hand-breadth wide with a central cylinder that was surrounded by concentric ridges on the concave side only.

I found it near a fuel island, and set it atop a concrete bollard…something to do with diesel I imagine..a plug…any ideas?

Ah--to answer my own question...gas station nozzles now have these circular splash guards (I don't remember them before the 1980s).

Speaking of bollard caps, Vestil has several:


Odd

I wonder if this inspired the Reliant roll bar

Pen

The FOAMY IQ SPARTAN soap dispenser is interesting--as are some plastic plunger stands and such.

Nice container
 
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Black plastic seat-belt covers and anchor plate covers are interesting

As are plastic windshield wiper bits




Lots of ASMR videos have Beauty supplies that make for good greebles

Vacuums

 
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Deer/Moose calls for hunting make great greeblies for the ESB chicken (rotating the head).
 

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I just posted it in my Battletech Argo thread, but this is probably a better spot to share it:

Color Identification

A method that I have used for quite a long time if you have a picture and are not quite certain what the color is. I discovered this back in my web-designing days, for the times that I needed to seamlessly match the background color with something else. This should work just as well or better with any decent photo editor or vector design software..., but if you do not feel like robbing a bank to be able to afford one of those, this also works great with Microsoft PowerPoint:

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  1. Copy and paste your picture into PowerPoint. You can also do this with an actual object (see edit below).

  2. On the same slide as your picture, create a simple form. I have an orange square above... the type of shape or its color does not matter at this point, as long as it has a fill color.

  3. Next open the Shape Fill drop-down to give your shape a new color

  4. choose "Eyedropper"

  5. Now you can move your mouse anywhere on your picture. If you leave your mouse on a point for a couple seconds, a small tool-tip with the RGB value of that pixel will appear.

  6. If you need other values like the Hex color code (#123456) or the HSL value you can click with the eyedropper to paint your shape with the selected color. Then go back to the Shape Fill drop-down again, this time click on "More Fill Colors..." and under the Custom tab you can see the other values for the current color. If you are lazy like me, you can mark them with a double-click of your cursor and then copy them out.


A slight downfall of this is that if your picture is shadowed like the one above, it may be difficult to find that one pixel that is not too light (due to being lighted) and not to dark (due to being in the shadow), but still it is a great help to find a place to start.

Hope some of you find that useful.

[EDIT]

This is also an excellent method if you need to print on white decal transfer sheets (i.e. a decal with white in it) and you need to match the surface color perfect so that the part of the decal that is supposed to be transparent has the same color as the model's surface. For this, take a picture of your model in the best lighting possible and then use your picture in the steps above.
 
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I will often point to thrift/second hand stores as my favorite prop sources but it is because of the crazy cool stuff at dirt prices. One of my favorites is women's belts. When a portion of a woman's belt is damaged or weathered, the entire belt is discounted greatly. In my area, they do not separate the buckles from the belts. So, if the buckle is junk, the strap becomes nearly free. Most of my leather is purchased this way. But today I have a great example of when the strap goes to garbage and the buckle becomes a hero level CLOAK CLASP:

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It could continue life as a buckle as well on a nice over shoulder sword belt and frog. Never pass up a cheap round buckle with character like this as they are instant medallions.
 
Don't remember if I mentioned it before but the plastic trays at stores that hold products have really cool shapes.
(Tooth brush, candy, dog food, etc)

I use some of them for holding parts and paint mixed trays.

Also the plastic trays food come in make good bases or detail bits.
 
I will often point to thrift/second hand stores as my favorite prop sources but it is because of the crazy cool stuff at dirt prices. One of my favorites is women's belts. When a portion of a woman's belt is damaged or weathered, the entire belt is discounted greatly. In my area, they do not separate the buckles from the belts. So, if the buckle is junk, the strap becomes nearly free. Most of my leather is purchased this way. But today I have a great example of when the strap goes to garbage and the buckle becomes a hero level CLOAK CLASP:

View attachment 1905567

It could continue life as a buckle as well on a nice over shoulder sword belt and frog. Never pass up a cheap round buckle with character like this as they are instant medallions.
Well, as one Gold Member of the Style Guy Thread, I see that you're doing the same thing as me when visiting thrift/vintage stores: going to the lady's section(y)(y)(y)
 
Well, as one Gold Member of the Style Guy Thread, I see that you're doing the same thing as me when visiting thrift/vintage stores: going to the lady's section(y)(y)(y)
I think that the title of this thread, ironically, describes WHY we wander over to the women's section. Every thrift store I have ever been in has an unspoken rule that men's clothes are NOT stylish and therefore all clothes of a higher quality level must go to the women's section. Nearly every Ralph Lauren men's coat I find will be hanging in the women's aisle. All shirt's with dress cuffs (no button, cufflink cuffs) are in the women's aisle. Clearly tagged as men's from the manufacturer but too fancy by far according to some universal thrift store rule. If you ever intend to find Iniana Jones' bag.....
 
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Don't remember if I mentioned it before but the plastic trays at stores that hold products have really cool shapes.
(Tooth brush, candy, dog food, etc)

I use some of them for holding parts and paint mixed trays.

Also the plastic trays food come in make good bases or detail bits.
These same trays with their odd shapes often become my resin poor trays for custom add ons to the model.
 
I think that the title of this thread, ironically, describes WHY we wonder over to the women's section. Every thrift store I have ever been in has an unspoken rule that men's clothes are NOT stylish and therefore all clothes of a higher quality level must go to the women's section. Nearly every Ralph Lauren men's coat I find will be hanging in the women's aisle. All shirt's with dress cuffs (no button, cufflink cuffs) are in the women's aisle. Clearly tagged as men's from the manufacturer but too fancy by far according to some universal thrift store rule. If you ever intend to find Iniana Jones' bag.....
Never saw that kind of display in my fav thrift/vintage stores:eek: I go to a local vintage store and the proprietor is in the business for close to 35 years now. Not only he knows every style and era, but also can get the "hard to buy" stuff that collectors have in their private home. He's a breathing style encyclopedia!:cool::cool::cool::cool::notworthy::notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:
 
For very large builds, water guzzlers for wildlife can be of use:




They have already spooked some

Toy light projector from
www.kidsmania.com

Wexford markers from Walgreens could make nacelles
 
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If you want some very tiny gun barrels, cable connectors, antennas, etc. and you can get them cheap, I highly recommend milspec contacts:

View attachment 1783074

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View attachment 1783100
They are tiny, with extremely fine holes that can work very well for very tiny guns and such, if you get the smallest sizes. They can be pretty expensive, but lucky for me I work in the aerospace industry and we throw out broken ones all the time, plus all the extra ones the connectors come with that 'accidentally' make their way into my pockets when I clean up after my shift. ;)

Here's a set of AMT/Ertl TIE Interceptor guns I made using these:

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You just helped me immensely, picked up a used Bandai TIE Interceptor that was missing 2 of these wing cannons.

Your expert timing was that of a master at kung-fu fighting.

Thank you, sir.
 
You just helped me immensely, picked up a used Bandai TIE Interceptor that was missing 2 of these wing cannons.

Your expert timing was that of a master at kung-fu fighting.

Thank you, sir.
These parts may be too big for that, actually. The ones on my TIE Interceptor were the smallest I had, and the kit is about 1:48.
 
Vape pens I pick up here and there in the trash…Make-up pens are some of the latest gizmos—just look at those phaser-emitter tips:


I see that the latest plastic DIAL soap decanters can be disassembled by hand—no cuts—no hacking:


Sometimes I will leave more stubborn bottles outside on the coldest of mornings—the plastic is at its most frangible then—also a good time for pyrotechnics to look most effective.

I have often wanted to pour LOX around a model, alcohol fuel mixture, etc.

With Liberty Bell 7 recovered—they threw the SOFAR bomb out—that would make a nice charge.
 
Look up "atomizer circuits", these are normally intended for magician tricks, but I'm sure you can see how these could also be useful for props, scale models and the like to turn water in a sponge into a small plume of mist. Eliminates the need to take apart a cheap vape pen (the ones you combine with a small aquarium pump to make ghost traps smoke).

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