Polar Lights 1/350 scale Enterprise Refit

belldandy4087

New Member
Hi all, I just got my hands on the Polar Lights 1/350 scale Enterprise Refit;To say this build makes me nervous is an understatement. I have experience with warhammer figures and doign some scenery but thats about it,. ;I have some questions about after market parts. My intentions are build the best model i can, I am willing to take my time and get the best parts i can within reason. I want to make the Refit Enterprise as seen in the Wrath of Kahn. So i have the following questions

So is it worth buying the different shuttle bay doors and the clear impulse engines form dlmparts?. I haven't opened the box yet ( i found thats a really good way to loose parts) but it was my understanding that the kit came with a clear impulse engines part. so whats the difference?


As long as we are talking about the shuttle bay, does the kit match what would be in the shuttle bay during the events of the Wrath of Kahn,. I dont recall any scenes that take place in the shuttle bay during WoK, so i will have to go to whats in the bay from TMP.  So i am guessing the parts in the kit should suffice?

For the flood lights, is there a template i can download to follow or is it best guess?

Like this
IMGP0338.jpg
and durrign the building, should i paint first then add the light kit or put the light kit in first and then paint? Thanks
 
The kit impulse engine is clear bit is not accurate, the DLM part corrects the size and shape.

You're right, the shuttle bay/cargo area wasn't seen in TWOK. You could just seal it up, but I assume it would look the same as in TMP.

The Trekworks build series covers the build step by step https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLF9nz5N6__BjT7UcHASgXMSO8IURtTfcN
He covers everything needed for an awesome build. He uses some aftermarket parts but doesn't bother with too much accurizing, just adding extra detail.
 
Yeh, this will be a major commitment to achieve an accurate build. My "A" version took just under 2 years, 3 of those months just testing colors and details.

IMO, TrekModeler's Refit is the most accurate build of the TMP Refit so far. Though I would have liked to see certain details accurized - then it would be pretty much perfect. For instance, though he did use the DLM Impulse engine, he did not use the DLM Shuttle door, or the oblong "flux" grilles at the forward sides of the engines. Also, the 2 "runners" in front of each of the 3 Deflector clamps are molded in parallel on the kit - another accuracy item that I would have liked to see redone on TrekModelers Refit (not many people have actually accurized this).

TrekModeler also offers a great simple lite kit and a Refit painting guide. Here is a YouTube link:

https://www.youtube.com/user/TrekModeler/videos

Other suggestions:

-TEST TEST TEST before final paint and construction
-Test paints, colors on spare sheet styrene or heavy white paper
-TrekWorks had a good tip on getting the Pylons to fit well (you will have to Google it or watch his build series)
-Search for Refit references by TrekModeler and Garbaron on YouTube and forums.
-Build and paint sub-assemblies before final construction (paint/finish the Hulls, Engines before gluing them all together) easier to do fine details this way.
-Make sure Primary Hull and engines will align straight before gluing.
-Make sure the Deflector housing is FIRMLY glued to the Secondary Hull, since the weight of the model will be focused on the stand mount in the Deflector.

For the windows and lighting, I painted/finished all parts, then glued in windows, with white paper behind them (this gives a better lite diffraction and looks better than clear) For the Secondary Hull, I assembled and finished/painted the main strongback section, with pylons, then assembled/finished/painted the lower half of the S.Hull, finished the Neck halves, THEN added windows and lites, THEN assembled the finished sections. This way I didn't have to mask the windows or use clear resin. For the Primary Hull, I finished the bottom half with sides, then added windows and lites, then finished the top P Hull, then glued them together. Unfortunately theres no fool-proof way to handle the windows other than leaving them open till construction and painting are complete, then filling them with clear resin after the model is finished, as TrekWorks did.

Take your time, have patience and good luck!

My "A" version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wifC0N6RUgU&list=PL2olyGtucDeG8WPRz19vkr8Ki8VjzgKs5
 
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