Part Time Props: Variable Threat Response Battle Suit
- Thread starter ladman
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ladman
Well-Known Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
Here are a few update pics on the back and chest. The has a lot of small pieces to it. I have only had a few minutes here and there to work on it. Also have been using my dremel a lot more on pieces to clean up edges and make angles that a blade can't make with out ripping the foam. Used it to make the bevel on the ear pieces for the helmet.
Also, Just posted a new HD Forearm with Gun file i unfolded into a foam template.
Here are a few update pics on the back and chest. The has a lot of small pieces to it. I have only had a few minutes here and there to work on it. Also have been using my dremel a lot more on pieces to clean up edges and make angles that a blade can't make with out ripping the foam. Used it to make the bevel on the ear pieces for the helmet.
Also, Just posted a new HD Forearm with Gun file i unfolded into a foam template.
Last edited:
somerandomguy69
New Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
can any of you please help me i am new to the site and i would like the war machine armor files but i cant seem to download them from 4shared so if you can help please do so.
can any of you please help me i am new to the site and i would like the war machine armor files but i cant seem to download them from 4shared so if you can help please do so.
ladman
Well-Known Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
So i wanted to share with everyone a concept that i use to make edges you are gluing together meet up with out having to use tabs or having to sacrifice edge thickness to make pieces appear they are convex or concave. I have had countless builds that needed to have an edge slightly overlapped to make a raised edge or had a suit that had a piece that was an exact fix but there was no ware to glue to. So here are a few steps i use to remedy the problem.
So you have two pieces that need to be glued together, but if you use the two piece you are gluing, you would have to adjust how they fit together to put them together. The example below is what i am talking about. notice how the two edges need to meet up, but if i just glue them together, i would have to overlap them to put them together. by doing that the result of this piece would be shot and mostly would not meet up with other parts that surround it.
What i do is take scrap foam and glue them to the opposite edge of the piece i am looking to glue.
Now with those pieces glued on, i can attach the adjacent piece and make them match up right to the seem like it should.
So i wanted to share with everyone a concept that i use to make edges you are gluing together meet up with out having to use tabs or having to sacrifice edge thickness to make pieces appear they are convex or concave. I have had countless builds that needed to have an edge slightly overlapped to make a raised edge or had a suit that had a piece that was an exact fix but there was no ware to glue to. So here are a few steps i use to remedy the problem.
So you have two pieces that need to be glued together, but if you use the two piece you are gluing, you would have to adjust how they fit together to put them together. The example below is what i am talking about. notice how the two edges need to meet up, but if i just glue them together, i would have to overlap them to put them together. by doing that the result of this piece would be shot and mostly would not meet up with other parts that surround it.
What i do is take scrap foam and glue them to the opposite edge of the piece i am looking to glue.
Now with those pieces glued on, i can attach the adjacent piece and make them match up right to the seem like it should.
FWatkinsjr
New Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
I am new and trying to get started with this build. I love the files but I think my head is entirely too big. After I do the scaling it (pieces) comes off the paper and shares multiple pages. ANY SUGGESTIONS ANYONE PLEASE? My Measurements are 16" from chin to top of head
I am new and trying to get started with this build. I love the files but I think my head is entirely too big. After I do the scaling it (pieces) comes off the paper and shares multiple pages. ANY SUGGESTIONS ANYONE PLEASE? My Measurements are 16" from chin to top of head
ladman
Well-Known Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
FWatkinsjr,
Im not quite sure what the issue you are having is pieces come off the paper? do if it is what i am thinking it is, all you have to do is re-adjust the layout to fit the pieces. I have had to cut some of them in half and arrange them, then once i print, i just tape them back together again.
FWatkinsjr,
Im not quite sure what the issue you are having is pieces come off the paper? do if it is what i am thinking it is, all you have to do is re-adjust the layout to fit the pieces. I have had to cut some of them in half and arrange them, then once i print, i just tape them back together again.
Korsh
New Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
Hello
I'm using the file: "New Complete Warmacine Files - WM-Rezin Suit - War Machine Chest.pdo and also used the" New Complete Warmacine Files - Warmachine 405th Team Up Files HD - HD Pep files - War Machine Chest.pdo "and noticed that the proportion of the parts is for children. However I'm with a doubt, how to resize it without losing the scale to the other pieces, for example waist and torso. Someone went through it here in the group?
obs: The head is hardened with liquid plastic.
Hello
I'm using the file: "New Complete Warmacine Files - WM-Rezin Suit - War Machine Chest.pdo and also used the" New Complete Warmacine Files - Warmachine 405th Team Up Files HD - HD Pep files - War Machine Chest.pdo "and noticed that the proportion of the parts is for children. However I'm with a doubt, how to resize it without losing the scale to the other pieces, for example waist and torso. Someone went through it here in the group?
obs: The head is hardened with liquid plastic.
ladman
Well-Known Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
I just recentley purchased a Solidoodle 4 and a Cameo printer. I have been toying around with the cameo and i came up with a quick tutorial for making it work like a CNC machine when it cuts your templates for you.
I'm not sure if anyone else has done this, but i experimented around with my cameo this morning and came up with a neat concept.
I have not been able to get my cameo to cut on the exact lines that i have printed out on my cardstock. So i came up with an idea that works perfect for how i go about it. Since the cameo prints out what it sees in the program, it does not matter really what color it is, so with that being said, what i did was in the pepakura designer, after i cut up my templates and laid them out, i turned all the edges and folds white, but if you are using a template that has hidden lines, do not change those, still leave those hidden. Weird right, stay with me.
Next this as a different file name, for naming convention sake, i just call them whatever the part is and then _NoColor. These are saved in a file i have called Cameo Prints inside my projects folder. Now you should have a color version and a non-color version. Also, forgot this part, in your color version of this file, make sure that you have your valley and mountain lines in different colors. I use red for mountain folds and green for valley folds, this is important in a step coming up.
Now open up your pep viewer for cameo software and open up the _NoColor file of your part. Set up your registration points. Tip: make sure your paper and print settings are set correctly or your registration points will not come out right and your layout will be off. If you are using Letter, set it to letter, and A4 to A4. I found that using a letter paper and setting your registration points to 16, 16, 16, 16 is perfect.
Now you are ready to print out your templates. When you go to print them out, it is simple, just go to file, print, and select your printer and your good to go. When you print out your templates, all that is going to print is your registration points. See where im going with this?
Now that you have printed your “blank” templates, you are ready to have the cameo cut them out. I am going to assume by this point that you have a cameo and that you know how to set it up and cut. If you do not, here is a link to the best tutorial I have found that I used to set up my cameo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf9dCM5RRys
Now when you load your template to have cut, make sure you load the one that has color. This is important because when the cameo goes to cut the templates, it needs to see the valley and mountain lines so that it can put them on the templates for you. If you are not concerned with those then you can skip this part. When you go to after you pick which page you are going to cut, select the details tab. Make sure that you check off, cut, mountain, and valley boxes. Once you click OK, the print setup screen will come up. Here, make sure that you select your cameo printer, NOT your regular printer. Select the properties tab to the right of where your printer is listed. Open up the cutline settings tab. In here you need to add another color, I use red. Make sure next to the cutline color, that you select dashed line. This will have the cameo read the mountain and valley folds in your template and then it will cut dashed lines on those. Now, you will have to use a marker to separate the lines so you know which ones are mountains and valleys. Now all you have to do is click ok, and then begin your cutting.
I like this approach, because it makes the cameo work like a CNC machine, it will cut of the templates on your black pages.
I just recentley purchased a Solidoodle 4 and a Cameo printer. I have been toying around with the cameo and i came up with a quick tutorial for making it work like a CNC machine when it cuts your templates for you.
I'm not sure if anyone else has done this, but i experimented around with my cameo this morning and came up with a neat concept.
I have not been able to get my cameo to cut on the exact lines that i have printed out on my cardstock. So i came up with an idea that works perfect for how i go about it. Since the cameo prints out what it sees in the program, it does not matter really what color it is, so with that being said, what i did was in the pepakura designer, after i cut up my templates and laid them out, i turned all the edges and folds white, but if you are using a template that has hidden lines, do not change those, still leave those hidden. Weird right, stay with me.
Next this as a different file name, for naming convention sake, i just call them whatever the part is and then _NoColor. These are saved in a file i have called Cameo Prints inside my projects folder. Now you should have a color version and a non-color version. Also, forgot this part, in your color version of this file, make sure that you have your valley and mountain lines in different colors. I use red for mountain folds and green for valley folds, this is important in a step coming up.
Now open up your pep viewer for cameo software and open up the _NoColor file of your part. Set up your registration points. Tip: make sure your paper and print settings are set correctly or your registration points will not come out right and your layout will be off. If you are using Letter, set it to letter, and A4 to A4. I found that using a letter paper and setting your registration points to 16, 16, 16, 16 is perfect.
Now you are ready to print out your templates. When you go to print them out, it is simple, just go to file, print, and select your printer and your good to go. When you print out your templates, all that is going to print is your registration points. See where im going with this?
Now that you have printed your “blank” templates, you are ready to have the cameo cut them out. I am going to assume by this point that you have a cameo and that you know how to set it up and cut. If you do not, here is a link to the best tutorial I have found that I used to set up my cameo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf9dCM5RRys
Now when you load your template to have cut, make sure you load the one that has color. This is important because when the cameo goes to cut the templates, it needs to see the valley and mountain lines so that it can put them on the templates for you. If you are not concerned with those then you can skip this part. When you go to after you pick which page you are going to cut, select the details tab. Make sure that you check off, cut, mountain, and valley boxes. Once you click OK, the print setup screen will come up. Here, make sure that you select your cameo printer, NOT your regular printer. Select the properties tab to the right of where your printer is listed. Open up the cutline settings tab. In here you need to add another color, I use red. Make sure next to the cutline color, that you select dashed line. This will have the cameo read the mountain and valley folds in your template and then it will cut dashed lines on those. Now, you will have to use a marker to separate the lines so you know which ones are mountains and valleys. Now all you have to do is click ok, and then begin your cutting.
I like this approach, because it makes the cameo work like a CNC machine, it will cut of the templates on your black pages.
victormm2307
New Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
Can you help me out by scaling this down for my 5 yr old son
Can you help me out by scaling this down for my 5 yr old son
robotcollector
New Member
Re: War Machine Pepakura Files
i sent a pm for the files if you could please send to me. I also cannot get them online.
i sent a pm for the files if you could please send to me. I also cannot get them online.
1ManOnFir3
New Member
Best pep package ever! 1000 thanks
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