Painting Latex

Predatoj

Well-Known Member
Hi,

So in the new year I'm planning my first predator mask, I have a full over-head pred mask and a half-mask for my P2 Bio in the pipeline.

I've decided to go the expensive route and make it from foam latex so I'm also planning construction of an oven. I've researched painting latex and there is a wide variety of ways to create a paint mix, from acrylics and liquid latex to lighter fuel and oil paints. It's just left me none the wiser.

Has anyone developed a commercial paint just for latex. I want something I can buy, load into an airbrush and go. It seems there isn't a commercial latex paint bottled I can buy, it all seems to be DIY. I've been on webstores that sell 'inks' and 'pigments' but don't describe its use!

Is there any good DVD books on the subject?

Thanks.
 
A search of the boards results in over 300 topics pertaining to painting latex http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1.  I am not aware of anything you just load into the AB and go (unless you purchase pre mixed PAX)... they all involve mixing or using specific materials.  That's not to say there isn't anything out there.  I use the pros-aide/ink method for it's simplicity and proven results.  A Google search resulted in allot of good info as well (for example http://www.learnprostheticmakeup.com/painting_latex_and_foam_latex.pdf), and YouTube is loaded with videos.

Brian
 
I just bought Steve Wang's 'creature mask painting' from Stan Winston School. Should cover everything I need to know. Strange that no one has bottled a latex paint. Maybe a shelf life issue.
 
very simple way.. i know usurper does this as well, spray your prosaide onto the piece you want to paint, when it has dired, gone clear tacky, use fw acrylic inks to spray your piece, you dont need to thin them down, just straight into your AB, when your finished seal it with luiqitex clear coat, either gloss or matt finish. 
 
TuaCathach said:
very simple way.. i know usurper does this as well, spray your prosaide onto the piece you want to paint, when it has dired, gone clear tacky, use fw acrylic inks to spray your piece, you dont need to thin them down, just straight into your AB, when your finished seal it with luiqitex clear coat, either gloss or matt finish. 
Yea I've heard of this one too. Is there a set time in which to paint the ink on to the prosaide? I mean does it stay tacky?
 
This is the method I use as well.  The only thing I do differently is I brush on the prosaide as opposed to spraying it.  I ruined an AB spraying it.  Brushing was recommended because prosaide is basically an adhesive and can clog up an AB nozzle almost instantly.  I have heard of others spraying successfully, so I know it can be done, but how they did it is a mystery to me.  It was also recommended to me to cover the prosaide with some sort of paint as soon as it dries clear.  I have let it sit too long and had to go back and apply it a second time.  Again, there are tons and tons of posts here that deal with painting latex, especially the prosaide/ink method.  You'll probably find more info searching as opposed to asking here as people tend to not want to repeat themselves in new threads. 

Brian
 
Think I'll give the Createx a try, seems to be the only brand that's flexable straight out the bottle.
 
You do know you still have to use prosaide or aquafix with the createx, right?  Just making sure :)

Brian
 
Really???? I'll email them about that. Just to add there are people who are using FW inks without using any aid to make it flexable and claim to not have any problems provided that the paint is sealed after. A guy on youtube who go's by the name of Brian Dunn and also a Monster makers tutorial on mask painting, he used neat fw ink too without any prep.

Just more confusion.
 
predatoj said:
Hi,

So in the new year I'm planning my first predator mask, I have a full over-head pred mask and a half-mask for my P2 Bio in the pipeline.

I've decided to go the expensive route and make it from foam latex so I'm also planning construction of an oven. I've researched painting latex and there is a wide variety of ways to create a paint mix, from acrylics and liquid latex to lighter fuel and oil paints. It's just left me none the wiser.

Has anyone developed a commercial paint just for latex. I want something I can buy, load into an airbrush and go. It seems there isn't a commercial latex paint bottled I can buy, it all seems to be DIY. I've been on webstores that sell 'inks' and 'pigments' but don't describe its use!

Is there any good DVD books on the subject?

Thanks.
hello, if only empty latex paint in the airbrush and paint. 
I leave the link: 
http://www.monstermakers.com/product/monster-makers-latex-mask-paint-kits.html
 
Have you looked into rubber cement paint mixes? Rubber cement from Lowes thinned with Naptha solvent from Lowes. Oil base paints mixed to the right color and spray on. You will want a vapor grade respirator also from Lowes, about 20 bucks. This is how all masks used to be painted. This stuff is awesome. It would take sand paper to even start taking it off. I have heard many stories about other mixes starting to peel when someone starts to sweat alot. I assure you you could go swimming in your suit painted with rubber cement. Check it out.
 
alphatech686 said:
Have you looked into rubber cement paint mixes? Rubber cement from Lowes thinned with Naptha solvent from Lowes. Oil base paints mixed to the right color and spray on. You will want a vapor grade respirator also from Lowes, about 20 bucks. This is how all masks used to be painted. This stuff is awesome. It would take sand paper to even start taking it off. I have heard many stories about other mixes starting to peel when someone starts to sweat alot. I assure you you could go swimming in your suit painted with rubber cement. Check it out.
Yep. That's the industry way of doing it, and Steve Wangs method (actually he uses stamping ink). The problem is over here in the UK its really hard to get rubber ink (no idea why) and equally hard to get Naptha. Cement is really expensive too. There's only one brand I can find that ADI use, an American brand I can't remember the name of. The main factor for me is the hazard. I'd just rather go non-toxic/flammable. In my tiny workspace its just too dangerous.
 
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