Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread

Actually, my EL hasn't broken. At least not in the way that we normally see it. I can fiddle around with my hand up in the shoe and get it to flicker, the entire panel will briefly come on and go back off again. I don't think Ill have an issue replacing parts, but what I do dread is trying to rewire these if that's the entire issue. Which it seems may be the case. Something tells me these will be as hard as the V2's as far as wiring goes, and the wires in those bad boys were IN TO STAY.

I did a quick search, but there are 128 pages now on this thread alone. Is there anyone completely rewiring their V3's? Or is it just dealing with the ends mostly?
 
Actually, my EL hasn't broken. At least not in the way that we normally see it. I can fiddle around with my hand up in the shoe and get it to flicker, the entire panel will briefly come on and go back off again. I don't think Ill have an issue replacing parts, but what I do dread is trying to rewire these if that's the entire issue. Which it seems may be the case. Something tells me these will be as hard as the V2's as far as wiring goes, and the wires in those bad boys were IN TO STAY.

I did a quick search, but there are 128 pages now on this thread alone. Is there anyone completely rewiring their V3's? Or is it just dealing with the ends mostly?

With the V2s, it was just best to re-wire the shoe. With the V3, most are using the connections that already run up the back seam. I think in the case of a flickering EL panel (which is what happened the 2nd time with my shoes), might be a broken wire. In my case, the wire was worn to bare copper, so was shorting in one shoe and the wire had broke in the other.

I convincing myself to remove the yellow soles from my display pair and add some clears that I have made up for them. I do wonder (given I don't wear them and therefore time is not a factor) if i should unplug the EL panel and remove it completely from the shoe, then add a protective heat shrink tube over the wire to make the insulation even stronger.
 
Mine are still going after 1.5/2yrs and worn for maybe 4x and 15hrs
But have yellowed anyone do the blue tint after yellowing or not worth it

I tried the blue tint on the soles - it made them look a little better but got a much better result from replacing the clear part.
(tinting the side was more effective than the bottom)
If you want to try tinting them, buy a pre-mixed (already liquid) dye in a light blue if you can get it. It's best mixed with a little hot water as well.
You may have to paint it on and wash it off a few times to get the effect you want. I used a very small paintbrush to carefully apply it, as no one wants to tint the grey foam.
There are two people on this forum that I know of who make sole replacements, Cavx and WizardBttf.
 
Mine are still going after 1.5/2yrs and worn for maybe 4x and 15hrs
But have yellowed anyone do the blue tint after yellowing or not worth it

My display pair are about the same age as yours, never worn and are **** yellow. I dyed them and they actually look slightly greenish because the blue does not filter out enough of the red. As I said, back when everyone jumped in to dye them, this was only a band aid solution as the yellow goes all the way to the core.
 
No, a lot more icy ones. I haven't been making the clear soles unless someone requests them because people want the icy more.

Surprising. Seeing how the movie had regular clear and not blue. I would rather have a movie replica instead of a copy of an official inaccurate release.
 
I preferred the clear (that was my first swap) but I've got a set of blue from Cavx if I ever get around to installing them on one of my other pairs lol :D - we can like both, right? :D
 
Surprising. Seeing how the movie had regular clear and not blue. I would rather have a movie replica instead of a copy of an official inaccurate release.

I preferred the clear (that was my first swap) but I've got a set of blue from Cavx if I ever get around to installing them on one of my other pairs lol :D - we can like both, right? :D

I am normally the guy that says we should be going movie prop replica. I even went so far as to add a layer of white. Yet my own soles have a slight blue tint to them.

Morpheus - "Fate it seems, is not without a sense of irony."
 
Looks like someone else is throwing their hat into the ring for footwear bags. 700$ with programmed LED, and the door automatically opens with programmed motors when you click a button.
02028e4c561a00e8aa3271e4d98b40df.jpg


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Looks like someone else is throwing their hat into the ring for footwear bags. 700$ with programmed LED, and the door automatically opens with programmed motors when you click a button.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180602/02028e4c561a00e8aa3271e4d98b40df.jpg

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I saw this on IG.

I do wonder how long does it take to print?
How much heat can it be exposed to before it warps?
What is he doing about print lines?

I've already conducted thermo testing by leaving my parts in a car in the sun for a few days. No issues at all because, whilst a car might get up to 60 degrees C, the theromoforming plastic needs 150 degree C to form it.


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I saw this on IG.

I do wonder how long does it take to print?
How much heat can it be exposed to before it warps?
What is he doing about print lines?

I've already conducted thermo testing by leaving my parts in a car in the sun for a few days. No issues at all because, whilst a car might get up to 60 degrees C, the theromoforming plastic needs 150 degree C to form it.


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He also states that there will be a programmable LED in it but I have no idea what the function of it would be since the original prop doesnt have one.
 
He also states that there will be a programmable LED in it but I have no idea what the function of it would be since the original prop doesnt have one.
He is probably going to add lights to the yellow dots that you can see inside the handle recess.

How is he going to print the windows on the MAG bag?
08ea0221be1139ee86820ac5c3bdbe52.jpg


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He is probably going to add lights to the yellow dots that you can see inside the handle recess.

How is he going to print the windows on the MAG bag?

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Laser cut acrylic windows.

He also states that there will be a programmable LED in it but I have no idea what the function of it would be since the original prop doesnt have one.

Yea....I told him people care more about a screen accurate version than some fancy LED motorized version. Don't think it stuck with him though haha.
 
Yea....I told him people care more about a screen accurate version than some fancy LED motorized version. Don't think it stuck with him though haha.

Yeah, he seems to think he knows it all and doesn't like to be told otherwize.

He never replied to my question, but based on what I have seen 3D printing to take, an object this size is about a week.
 
In order to get rid of the print lines the person that bought it would need to put body filler over the entire thing and sand it smooth. Which is way more work that anyone wants to do for a $700 product.
 
In order to get rid of the print lines the person that bought it would need to put body filler over the entire thing and sand it smooth. Which is way more work that anyone wants to do for a $700 product.
He said he's using XTC3D

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