A little bit further along. Should have more on Monday!
Oblivion - Jack's pistol
- Thread starter Art Andrews
- Start date
More detailing added:
Father
Sr Member
Slow, but steady going. After having an almost finished mockup, I'm breaking this down into several components for casting into a multi-part kit. It becomes fairly complex when you start designing where to split the kit for ease of assembly and to hide any joints. I'm designing the kit-parts before going into heavy detailing (like adding the side bulge for example) because it's easier for adding thickness. It's easy to end up with crappy geometry otherwise. Here's a w.i.p. of the barrel side cover...
I might actually try to split the model where the white and grey pieces meet. That way, parts can be painted pre-assembly.
Note: I'm not going to be able to update this for a few days but will get back to it on sunday
Last edited:
I'm actually doing the same thing for the rifle, except I'm trying to make it more like a molded in color model kit. Some parts are dk grey, some parts black, some light grey. That brings up a point, do you think that's white or an off grey color?
It looks to be a matte white, just slightly grey. I would assume that a pure white would create problems with lighting and such while filming. Maybe one of the original makers can chime in with the truth.
Father
Sr Member
LOLZ. Yeah, it's hard to tell with the white because they were dirtied down. Like a very very very light gray.
Huh. Art, your model is looking pretty good.
Huh. Art, your model is looking pretty good.
nostromo20
Active Member
Do you think the base grey color is the same as the original Masada or was it painted? (slightly lighter grey?)
Almost there!
I don't know about Art's modeler, but the parts I find tricky are areas like the grip. Look at the top-rear of the grip, where there is a "flat" area that runs down the grip, smoothing out towards the bottom. Hard edges meeting curved areas can be notoriously difficult to get perfect. You can even see some geometrical "errors" in the concept image render on the butt of the pistol. Those things show up like crazy when you 3d print, unless your mesh flows very well. I redid the Lawgiver grip cover three or four times before I was close to happy... and I still think it could be improved upon! Long, completely flat areas can also produce surface artifacts when printing. The top of the "slide" on the other hand is mainly cutouts and simple shapes that are intersected- the most difficult thing there is that some of the details are so thin they may be prone to breakage during printing.
Working on the moving trigger assembly right now... it's coming along. I block out the main parts roughly before adding "smoothness" since it complicates the model and takes processor time.
Here I've started on the trigger hinge assy.
Back to work...!
Last edited:
I don't know if this kind of in-depth detail is of any interest to y'all, but here's what I'm doing in terms of making the kit easy to assemble. For pieces like the front plate, I'm cutting a groove/slot so that it will slide into place. (See the yellow arrows.) The big challenge is working within tolerances for printing, making sure that the walls don't become too thin. I don't yet know for sure how well this will translate into a resin casting, but I'm working with the assumption that it will be doable. (Hey, if Games Workshop can cast 28mm scales swords out of resin, this can't be impossible!)
This is a virtual nightmare to do and it slows the computer down to molasses-speed! It's not accurate to the filming model since we know it was more or less only "split in two" but it will make painting a LOT easier. (Though if there are objections to the split due to accuracy, they can easily be recombined.)
The grip alone will probably require 3-5 molds...
The grip alone will probably require 3-5 molds...
Attachments
Last edited:
Similar threads
