Why am I doing this again? Oh that's right. Because these are Uber cool with lights. Yeah...
New clears have been attached leaving the side wing open for wiring the EL. Sock Toe is also complete.
I decided to reshape the heel a bit. My heel cups have been built up using grey rubber. A few days back, I removed the old hand cut letters and added these new ones. I still don't have the proper mold, so this version will have to do until I get that. Anyway, machined letters look way better than hand cut letters. I broke the NIKE during the re-wire. Lucky I can make new ones. The letters are cast in their colours too, so no paint to peel here
And of course I will be re-doing the spatter in the new colour. I changed the colour of the green/blue to be more blue as you can see from the new MAG. The old grey and spatters were shiny because that is how the rubber cures. During these mods, I have used a ceramic tool to just take the shine off, and it looks heaps better, so will continue with that.
I also have been working on new clear bubbles with the three slots on the inside so that those that want LEDs can still use these when I finalize the masters and make a new mold. The top is very rounded like the RD part, but it is not long enough, so looks a bit too round. I will also have to take the shine off these as well. This size fits the standard cutout of the V2/HC and why I have made them at the same size. The new Heel Cups I am working on will have a larger bubble. Therefore bubbles will come with them when I actually start production. They too will have the larger NIKE and MAG, but the proper graphic that matches the RD.
The
cloneprops 3D printed ankle buckle (medium) that I often refer to as CP-3D (not to be confused with C-3PO). I hope now that he back on the forums, that he up-loads the small version to shape ways as I find this meduim part just a touch too big. The good thing about the medium part is that it clips over the white rubber V2 part, so makes adding these one of the easiest mods around.
What I have done to mine is to cut right through the V2 rubber part and use the CP3D part as a new skin.
The cutout will hold a 9V battery. I was originally using 3V but the EL is not very bright on just 3V. 9V is much better. I picked up these 12V inverters for cheap locally. I may recess the inverter in a bit at some stage. Although this adds some weight to the buckle, the strap's velcro does hold it in place. I just didn't want the battery in the soles on this pair. in fact, I filled the cavity with a block of Pinkysil.
