Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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This is possibly the BEST, most screen accurate (prop accurate for sure) toe mod I've seen which you have done by removing the toe box altogether.

Airair, you mentioned heating the toe box up without having to cut up the shoe. My question is, would it be possible to simply heat form the toe box into the flatter shape?
 
This is possibly the BEST, most screen accurate (prop accurate for sure) toe mod I've seen which you have done by removing the toe box altogether.

Airair, you mentioned heating the toe box up without having to cut up the shoe. My question is, would it be possible to simply heat form the toe box into the flatter shape?

I'm not sure.

i will try it on the next pair I'm modifying for someone. Not sure whether you can get it completely flat as well as comfortable as the rigid piece hardens as soon it goes cold. So even if you do get it flat, it might be too tight and uncomfortable having a hard rigid piece up against the toes!
I think you may have to leave a little curve in the toe box just to allow your toes room to move, same like emmet has done.

The iron method that emmet has used gives the same end result as the normal toe mod but with much less hassle and a better finish as you are not unglueing and glueing back. The original factory glue is pretty strong stuff, so if we can avoid cutting it then it's a better option.

Without that rigid toe box the grey fabric layers are fairly soft and your toes can stick out pretty much the same as the movie shoes.
 
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Hey Guys, I'm looking to see if anyone has a graphic file like Adobe Illustrator of the Nike Logo for the strap? This would save me from having to create it.

I love this group of die hard enthusiasts. I literally spent the last 2 days tearing apart my shoes. I killed the lights in there that came with my V2. I'm thinking I over charged it? Anyone have this issue? Interesting that China used a regular watch cell battery.

Here's my work thus far - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAnCQb2oWEY&feature=youtu.be0%


Big shoutout to Jedifyfe for sharing his work. It inspired me to get to work ;-)
 
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THE MOD DOCTOR IS IN lol
i made my own yellow el panels i discovered floresent paint is transparent and glows yellow when lit dont photo well ill see when i have them in the sole but i used faskolor air brush paint its for rc car bodies ill cover it with clear packing tape to protect from scraching :)
im doing the swoosh in el as well this gold thing they have on hear is gross lmao
 
Cool DJ. My FOOTWEAR MAGs are almost done. The FOOTWEAR logo is too big in this photo and will be about an inch shorter in length. The NIKE and MAG logo on the heel will be the same yellow as the swoosh and footwear. All the LED's in the ankle are yellow and the EL in the soles are white but the soles will be tinted yellow...

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so sick JEDIfyfe
I used white els as well but painted them wit floresent yellow paint its glows yellow ,weird that regular yellow blocks the light ?? but im going to paint the sole as well just started today on the toe mod also planed to use all yellow led as well seems great minds think alike LOL
im taking the crappy gold splatter off with goff off what do you use bro or did you just paint over the gold ??
 
what do you use bro or did you just paint over the gold ??

Thanks man. These are being painted by a professional shoe customizer. He uses specific paints to paint shoes. He is also doing the FOOTWEAR letters in a special vinyl that is permanent and won't come off.
 
Thanks man. These are being painted by a professional shoe customizer. He uses specific paints to paint shoes. He is also doing the FOOTWEAR letters in a special vinyl that is permanent and won't come off.

jedifyfe mod master :D
what do think about the steam toe box thing emmet is doing ? i cant help sticking to what really works i already rip't apart my black pair but have another grey pair to do and that toe mod looks amazing lol wounder how long till it pops back up?? there is alot of fabric on there it kinda dont make sense somethings not right?????

ps. what do think of using black silicon on front of the toe mod or calk they sell it at homedepo my be a better looking finish or i just might mix black paint thats for rubber and plastic in the locktight rubber glue (thoughts) ?
and do you have a templet for yellow nike emblem i would greatly appreciate it
sorry to be a pester with questions bro THANKS for all your help i could have never dun this without ya thanks i made some chick walk right into a telephone pool looking at my shoes yesterday LMAO
 
I too am curious how the ironing of the toe mod will hold up. I just can't see this fabric shrinking. Even with my toe mods, after removing quite a bit of fabric, the toe tends to get pushed up a little. We shall see. I would LOVE it if this is a true may to do the toe mod but I am skeptical of it's long term permanency.

as for the black silicon, I guess you could do that. the clear shows up in photos much more than it does in real life, so I am not concerned about it, but go ahead and try it. As for the yellow NIKE emblem, I used yellow EL and put the clear/black NIKE logo over the top. It's the same NIKE logo that has been posted many many many times before.
 
I too am curious how the ironing of the toe mod will hold up. I just can't see this fabric shrinking.

The grey fabric is slightly overstretched over the original toebox. It is pushed up by the rigid white material underneath. If this material heats up it gets soft and the grey fabric can go back to it's natural shape. As you can clearly see from my images, the grey fabric's structure runs perfectly straight and parallel after the mod. It is not compressed and didn't shrink further that to it's natural, unstretched shape.

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This will never ever pop back. No way.
It doesn't even pop back if you re-heat the toebox. In my initial try I made the toebox too flat.
When I re-heated the toe area, I had to push really hard from inside out in order to make the toebox bulge again.

Even if someone wanted to restore the original shape, there is no way to do that as you don't have enought power to overstretch the grey fabric again.


I wore the modified shoes already and they still look the same.
That's all I can say.
 
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Sorry I can't. My shoes are done and they are perfect. If I re-heat sections of the toe box, it will warp again. I don't want to start over. If I should get my hands on a second pair I will make a video.

Try it for yourself. It isn't hard, it just takes some time to get the shape right.

You need to put a thin cloth over the toe of the shoe, put something inside the toe area in order to keep the toe box from collapsing completely.

Then use the steam from the iron and go from one side of the toe-area to the other. You will almost instantly see the toebox collapsing, proceed until the toe is flat. You don't have to press very hard, it will become flat rather easily.

If you are done let it cool down. If there are some dents or ripples, put your fingers under the dented areas, and put some steam to the section you want to modify.
When the material heats up it becomes soft again. Then push out the dents gently and hold until the material cools down and becomes rigid.

You can remodel the complete toebox like this, heating up one segment at a time. It takes some time, but works really well. airair already confirmed it:


I just got the iron out and went over a few of my own pairs which have slight wrinkles in them (thats after I cut them and glued them back), and the iron trick with a thin towel has done the trick, its smoothed out the toebox completely on them, the rigid part goes soft with some iron steam heat, then dries back to its original hardness and not a single wrinkle!

Emmet, top job! such a simple thing and no need to cut anything up again! :cool:thumbsup
 
Emmet is right, the grey fabric on the toebox seems to be stretched by the rigid toe piece when they've done it in the factory over the shoe last.

I don't know what its called or what type of material it is, but i've removed it on a few pairs straight after cutting up the toebox, and you can see that is quite hard and stiff.

Sometimes it peels straight off in one piece, while other times, it seems to be stuck quite strongly to the inner bit of the grey fabric.

When I put a hairdryer to it, it sort of melts and goes very soft and gooey like a glue or something similar. You can even start to peel it off then or scrape it off, so I believe steaming with the iron is doing the same thing, its melting it and then you are reshaping it down.

I got two of my own pairs which i've done the toe modification on (cutting them up and glueing back) and since they had slight creases, I simply put my hand or some fabric inside the shoe, got a thin towel and started to iron over the toebox.

All the creases have gone and the toebox is now perfectly shaped. I even pressed down on it, and it just pops back up perfectly.

I'll be getting some more fresh pairs to modify shortly, so I will do a test on them, but I think the steam iron method should work and save you from having to cut up the front.

I'll try it on some fresh pairs and see if I get the same results.


I too am curious how the ironing of the toe mod will hold up. I just can't see this fabric shrinking. Even with my toe mods, after removing quite a bit of fabric, the toe tends to get pushed up a little. We shall see. I would LOVE it if this is a true may to do the toe mod but I am skeptical of it's long term permanency.

as for the black silicon, I guess you could do that. the clear shows up in photos much more than it does in real life, so I am not concerned about it, but go ahead and try it. As for the yellow NIKE emblem, I used yellow EL and put the clear/black NIKE logo over the top. It's the same NIKE logo that has been posted many many many times before.
 
Ok I put skepticism aside and tried this on a fresh pair of unmodded MAGs and I can confirm that this method does work really well. Congrats to Emmet! Thank you for trying this and making it work! On the pair I did, there are some tiny waves in the under fabric that can barely be seen but that can also occur when you cut them apart and reglue. I will be reworking this pair to see if I can get the toe box perfectly smooth.

Again...A HUGE thank you to Emmet!

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Brad post a video on how you do it if possible.Im understanding what's being said I would just like to see it in action.

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I killed the lights in there that came with my V2. I'm thinking I over charged it? Anyone have this issue? Interesting that China used a regular watch cell battery.

Well what I can see in your video is just the regular behavior of the V2s lights when the battery is empty. The blue light is off, the green and orange lights are dim, only the red lights are still on. If you put the USB charger to this shoe all lights should light up again. If not, you probably broke a wire off the shoe's usb port.
 
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