Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

[Frodo]

Ah a pair of my V2s were removed from eBay for violation of replicas and brands etc .

did someone report them do you guys think or did eBay just pick it up that I wrote "replica" on the listing ?

i wanted to be honest and not sell them to someone who thought they were real.

There are so many replicas on there even with replica in the title :/

has as it ever happened to you guys?

 

[NickyMabbs]

i wonder if anyone has actually screen matched this pair to a specific scene. Also his pair from the first movie were his personal shoes, so I'm curious if they even exist anymore along with the fact that there were multiple pairs and stunt people that wore larger sizes than MJF. Supposedly even multiple sizes of mags were made.

I'd be interested to know if they have been matched to a specific scene. As far as I can recall, I was told that these were his actual wardrobe shoes from Part 2, which would make sense as I think these look less beaten than his own Nikes in Part 1. I'll see if I can find out any more information.

 

[NickyMabbs]

Here's another photo with the description plate in view. The scene is wrong for a start, as he was wearing the Mags. Perhaps it's supposed to be the tunnel scene with Biff rather than Griff. There's a few solid markings on them from what looks like spray paint, so hopefully they might be able to be matched.

 

[JLeezy23]

In the tunnel scene the camera is mainly on his right side, showing the inside of the left shoe. There's a quick shot of the front view of the shoes when the Ford is right behind him. I recently found the BTTF trilogy is on Netflix, I'll see if i can spot some similarities in the pair later tonight

 

[cavx]

A "Barbie Hover Board"? LOL. Yeah, I suppose Mattel did make Barbie as well and the Hover Board is pink and all.

 

[don jon]

Ah a pair of my V2s were removed from eBay for violation of replicas and brands etc .

did someone report them do you guys think or did eBay just pick it up that I wrote "replica" on the listing ?

i wanted to be honest and not sell them to someone who thought they were real.

There are so many replicas on there even with replica in the title :/


has as it ever happened to you guys?

you got lucky they didnt suspend your account
if your ebay account is new they look at everything

 

[cavx]

you got lucky they didnt suspend your account
if your ebay account is new they look at everything

Interesting because I had to create a new account to sell the pair of modded V2s recently and all went smoothly.

 

[WizardBTTF]

In case anyone wants to see one of my molds. Idk some of you may find it interesting the molding process. Hate molding parts this way because making the molds take a lot of time, but they turn out amazing parts.

EDIT: Fixed attached image hopefully

 

[MitasTouch]

In case anyone wants to see one of my molds. Idk some of you may find it interesting the molding process. Hate molding parts this way because making the molds take a lot of time, but they turn out amazing parts.

View attachment 655191

It says invalid link.

 

[cavx]

In case anyone wants to see one of my molds. Idk some of you may find it interesting the molding process. Hate molding parts this way because making the molds take a lot of time, but they turn out amazing parts.

Awesome. I assume the mold is stood upright to allow a flow down effect? How "liquid" is your rubber? The stuff I use would not work well in a mold like this. It would just hang in the tube. Mine is like runny honey. It pours really well into flat open molds, but does not flow well into a small openings.

 

[WizardBTTF]

Awesome. I assume the mold is stood upright to allow a flow down effect? How "liquid" is your rubber? The stuff I use would not work well in a mold like this. It would just hang in the tube. Mine is like runny honey. It pours really well into flat open molds, but does not flow well into a small openings.

I actually inject the rubber with a clear condiment squeeze bottle, it wouldn't flow through this kind of mold on its own. The pressure forces it through the mold and out the channel at the top of the part. This mold is made from smooth-on 385 which is a very hard mineral filled resin. It has very low shrinkage and a few other properties that I love, which is why I use it for molds like this. Also filling a mold like this from the bottom up eliminates air pockets, even though I pressure cast at 60-70psi it still wont crush large air pockets. This is my go to molding style when I want to make parts that are thin and very accurate.

 

[cavx]

I actually inject the rubber with a clear condiment squeeze bottle, it wouldn't flow through this kind of mold on its own. The pressure forces it through the mold and out the channel at the top of the part. This mold is made from smooth-on 385 which is a very hard mineral filled resin. It has very low shrinkage and a few other properties that I love, which is why I use it for molds like this. Also filling a mold like this from the bottom up eliminates air pockets, even though I pressure cast at 60-70psi it still wont crush large air pockets. This is my go to molding style when I want to make parts that are thin and very accurate.

Is your silicone a platinum base? Mine is and I love it because it has such a long pot life and cure time, it can be degassed and any bubbles still left actually have time to raise and pop anyway. Weird part is, it is cheaper than the tin base here which everyone buys because it is quicker setting. I stuff I use is also varible shore, so you customise it from just A15 to A40. When I get around to making molds of my lens parts, I'll be using hard silicone on the outside and soft on the threads inside. Because silicone only sticks to itself, this should just fuse itself together.

The bottle idea is clever. So do you degas before filling the bottle or degas in the bottle? I will have to experiment with that on my 2 part mold. I do think that if I poured less than the amount needed to fill into the open mold, placed the lid in, then degassed that again, I might be able to solve the trapped air issue as it would pull all the air out. I might even have to have a bottle like you have used pushed into one of the fill holes so it sucks rubber into the cavity under vacuum.

Otherwise, I'd have to let that cure and then top up the wings later. Of course that mold is my older V2 (Gen1 soles), so I will need to make a brand new master and mold before making these parts. And of course I won't be doing that until I buy these shoes and given I've just spend a considerable amount on this new Vacuum Form now (to make the tube bags), so won't be buying them anytime soon now anyway.

I don't have a pressure pot as yet and am struggling to find one under four figures that will be large enough to actually hold a decent sized mold. The largest paint pot I have found is still too small. Compressors are cheap. The chambers are not though.

 

[WizardBTTF]

Is your silicone a platinum base? Mine is and I love it because it has such a long pot life and cure time, it can be degassed and any bubbles still left actually have time to raise and pop anyway. Weird part is, it is cheaper than the tin base here which everyone buys because it is quicker setting. I stuff I use is also varible shore, so you customise it from just A15 to A40. When I get around to making molds of my lens parts, I'll be using hard silicone on the outside and soft on the threads inside. Because silicone only sticks to itself, this should just fuse itself together.

The bottle idea is clever. So do you degas before filling the bottle or degas in the bottle? I will have to experiment with that on my 2 part mold. I do think that if I poured less than the amount needed to fill into the open mold, placed the lid in, then degassed that again, I might be able to solve the trapped air issue as it would pull all the air out. I might even have to have a bottle like you have used pushed into one of the fill holes so it sucks rubber into the cavity under vacuum.

Otherwise, I'd have to let that cure and then top up the wings later. Of course that mold is my older V2 (Gen1 soles), so I will need to make a brand new master and mold before making these parts. And of course I won't be doing that until I buy these shoes and given I've just spend a considerable amount on this new Vacuum Form now (to make the tube bags), so won't be buying them anytime soon now anyway.

I don't have a pressure pot as yet and am struggling to find one under four figures that will be large enough to actually hold a decent sized mold. The largest paint pot I have found is still too small. Compressors are cheap. The chambers are not though.

I am not using any silicone for these soles or molds. I don't degas the rubber at all for 2 part molds normally because I pressure cast them. Flat one part molds I do both though. I find a pressure chamber to be 100% necessary if you want consistently perfect casts, but yea they will be the most expensive part of your set up. With the mold in the picture, If I didn't pressure cast...it would have bubbles for sure.

 

[cavx]

I am not using any silicone for these soles or molds. I don't degas the rubber at all for 2 part molds normally because I pressure cast them. Flat one part molds I do both though. I find a pressure chamber to be 100% necessary if you want consistently perfect casts, but yea they will be the most expensive part of your set up. With the mold in the picture, If I didn't pressure cast...it would have bubbles for sure.

So what is your mold made from?

 

[WizardBTTF]

So what is your mold made from?

Mineral filled resin 385. It is a hard mold, not a soft rubber mold.

 

[DragonGalvy]

Yeah, tell me about it.

600.00 USD

=

782.197 AUD

Go to an AustPost Office to make your Western Union payment. They are generally pretty quick to process it and you pay a transfer fee as a part of the payment. Just be sure to have all David's details with you.

You can also opt for an text to your phone to advise you when David has collected the money. Your receipt will have the MCTN (Money Currency Transfer Number) which is your proof of payment between you and David. Best to Skype that number to him ASAP.

Dont forget the discount code and the discount you get for paying Western Union - my total was only (only, haha) $760 including the WU fee. The V3's finally arrived today too, love them!

 

[cavx]

Mineral filled resin 385. It is a hard mold, not a soft rubber mold.

So you need a good release agent with that? I could make a hard mold from resin, but getting it apart without a release would not happen.

- - - Updated - - -

Dont forget the discount code and the discount you get for paying Western Union - my total was only (only, haha) $760 including the WU fee. The V3's finally arrived today too, love them!

Awesome! Pics, pics and more pics

 

[WizardBTTF]

So you need a good release agent with that? I could make a hard mold from resin, but getting it apart without a release would not happen.

Very important to have a good release agent when making hard molds or you wont separate them. When I am casting soft parts I use hard molds, when I cast hard parts I normally use a soft mold. Ease Release 200 and Smooth-On Universal spray release are my go to release agents.

 

[cavx]

Very important to have a good release agent when making hard molds or you wont separate them. When I am casting soft parts I use hard molds, when I cast hard parts I normally use a soft mold. Ease Release 200 and Smooth-On Universal spray release are my go to release agents.

I've been pretty impressed with this stuff and need to buy a can for myself.

This was loaned to me from a guy with a massive polyurethane injection system where two hoses go in from barrels of Part A and Part B and the product is mixed in the gun head. Not sure what they were making, but it is specifically designed for polyurethane rubbers and plastics and works really well with silicone to prevent the two mold halves from sticking.

How well will you have to clean off the parts you are casting so they actually glue to the shoes?

My A40 shore molds are pretty stiff. They flex enough to allow me to bend them to peel out a part. And of course, so release agent is needed with them.

 

[DragonGalvy]

As requested - sorry about the low light, will try again another time during the day when I get time off.
my slightly modified V2s Vs the V3s. That sleeker swoosh on the V3s makes a huge difference.....

they feel very solid and really good quality workmanship. But be warned, Australian buyers - you'll need to get a voltage converter / plug converter as they only come with American plug. That's next on my shopping list, even though they were able to 'turn on' out of the box. The switch on mine is on the inner part of the white cuff on the wing, if anyone has trouble finding them. It didn't take me that long, but I'm used to feeling for electronic switches and so on. I guess everyone else's will be designed the same.