NIKE MAG Patterns

[cavx]

Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Because a picture is worth a 1000 words

This is how I am thinking these upper should be assembled.

1. Start with the liner and build out.
2. Add laces, tongue and cuff
3. Stitch on outer. You make a smaller version of the collar to complete the shell and that part only can be stitched to the cuff at its base. Glue the rest in place.
4. attach uppers to soles.

 

[cavx]

Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

OK after allot of messing around, drawing, redrawing and drawing some more, this is where I am at.

As I explained earlier, with a flat 2D image, depth is often not seen and when you convert that to a 2D pattern to be made into a 3D shape, the depth has to be factored into the design by way of extended parts. If you look at the collar, you will notice it leans right out where a 2D image of the shoe I am making does not. This is the only way I can seem to get width into a part like the collar. I am hoping that when it filled out, the back wall will straighten up like the proper shoe.

These latest versions are a full 1 inch taller than all of my previous efforts. And it kind of makes sense as these are US10, and are now 10" tall.

 

[cavx]

Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

And now sewn together

There are some ways these shoe NEED to be assembled.

For this pair (and the last few I've done), I stitched in the following order:

1. The full back seam.
2. The inner-sole to the upper starting at the heel.
3. The inner seam.

When attaching the inner-sole, I found the best way to do this is to fold the inner-sole in half to find very centre, then place the first stitch from this point into the centre of the back seam off the upper. Then work around the inner sole leaving the inner seam to last.

 

[cavx]

Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

And after some folding, they start to take shape.

This is a size US10 upper sitting on a US11 sole. Soon I will remove the leather uppers from my US10 soles.

 

[cavx]

Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

So after sewing up the the latest version of the mesh MAG and sitting it in the size 11 sole, I needed to know how this new upper would look in the proper size 10 sole. So I have removed the leather MAG uppers from their soles.

One thing that has been brought up time and time again with the V1 and now V2 K-MAG is the fact that the toe on the mid-sole tappers and it should not. With all the talk about toe correction and slimming the toe, RPF member Punisher came up with the idea of building up the toe of the mid-sole which means you get that look of a slimmed toe without having to cut away the material. I'd used a heap of Shoe Goo to attach the leather uppers to the soles and them used a gros-grain to hide my bad stitch job I did. Anyway, as it turns out, the Shoe Goo molded to the shape of the toe and had adhered really well to the mid-sole. So after some cutting and trimming, I now have a build up toe. I will have to re-paint and re-slat the soles anyway, so this is actually working out as a good thing.

Another snag and hopefully a solution as well...

When I did the leather uppers, I knew nothing of how the shoes should go together and made an inner-sole that I though looks good and would work. Of course it didn't and required a heap of trimming and re-stitching to make it work and as a result, the left foot was always a bit tight. A mistake I don't intend to make again.

So I used the actual innersole off the K-MAG upper to make the shoe shape at the innersole that I now have stitched to the bases of the mesh MAG uppers. The challenge is that it does not quite fit the sole of the shoe and I have drawn the the actual shape. I am still to cut and test and pass this...

 

[cavx]

Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Before made the decision to chop these mesh uppers up, I needed how far off I was.

Check this out.

Outer shot of the size US10 mesh MAG upper on US10 V1 sole.

Inner shot of the size US10 mesh MAG upper on US10 V1 sole.

And a much cleaner toe

 

[cavx]

Re: NIKE MAG Build Number 2

Tonight I cut this new inner sole pattern out decided to see how it fits.

You can also see where I have cut the heel down as well. It looks better. I just need to round it off a bit.

And just for fun, a 3D image of the new MAGs

Yes you have to go cross eyed :eek

 

[Jedifyfe]

Re: NIKE MAG Build Number 2

You are becoming quite proficient at sewing these now. Nice work.

 

[cavx]

Re: NIKE MAG Build Number 2

You are becoming quite proficient at sewing these now. Nice work.

Thanks It is just practice. Once I work out that innersole thing (does that mean I have to widen the heel?) I think I am ready to make grey and white uppers. I am now a bro that sews

 

[cavx]

Re: NIKE MAG Build Number 2

I'm just about out of this mesh, so here is yet another revision, this time with the new inner sole.

It does sit better in the foot frame of the sole, so that is a win. The new shape will force a trim on the inner seam and maybe the lace slot.

 

[cavx]

Re: NIKE MAG Build Number 2

I now have grey mesh :love and a natural (they didn't have grey) #20 UV stabilized, nylon bonded thread. The thread costs almost as much as the mesh :eek

Anyway because I worked for this company 10 years ago and the same guy is still in the warehouse, I got a little Christmas bonus - an extra half a meter

 

[cavx]

Re: NIKE MAG Build Number 2

WOW I found some more white! Anyway, I was not 100% convinced that I had the right size of the new innersole. So tonight I used an actual sock liner to get the shape and size perfect.

You can see here the size and shape of old and new.

So with the old, the inner seam did not quite align and it looked as if I might have to trim it which I did not want to do.

Note the way the lace section sits near the toe box.

And with the new inner-sole, much better.

It also extends the upper back to the back of the mid-sole, so making the shoe look better.

 

[cavx]

Re: NIKE MAG Build Number 2

I don't think I am ready for a dedicated MAG build #2 thread just yet, so will continue to post here for a while.

UPDATE: Grey Mesh MAGs Begin!

I've been busy on this tonight, so here is where I am up to now.

I started with the the prototype white mesh MAG [still pinned] sitting on the grey mesh. This is a pretty fair colour comparison of the colour if the grey.

I then unpinned that and laid it out flat so I could use it as a pattern.

I then traced the pattern onto the grey mesh reversing each part to make left and right sets.

Then I cut out the parts and pinned them together.

And now they are all ready for sewing with this natural #20 UV stabilized thread.

As it is now past mid-night here and I gorgeous wife's :love birthday, I'll continue this later :cool

 

[cavx]

Re: NIKE MAG Build Number 2

Today I bought some more white vinyl and a nice wide elastic. I've got a different plan to do the laces, so won't be using four x 12mm straps. Stay tuned

 

[cavx]

I am about to start my new MAG build. The part I need to decide on is do I make a double toe construction or a single layer? I will probably go the single layer because I actually want the soggy toe look of the 1989 movie shoe.

I've created patterns for the liner that will allow both.

 

[cavx]

I have started the liners today and am going with the open toe design. It makes more sense if you refer to this image I posted earlier.

The new liner

The liner is made from the grey mesh. The white front part is me being lazy. I made the parts originally out of grey mesh and they were too short (customized today), so rather than take a slice off the roll for just two small parts, I decided to recycle white mesh from earlier MAG prototypes. You won't see this because both the laces and tongue are white anyway.

The tongue gets stitched to the bridge of this part and this will ensure that it can not be pulled out as well keep the stitching hidden under the outer skin.

I still need to sew up the other shoe and then I will add the laces, tongue and cuff before attaching the outer skin of the shoe.

 

[Taff83]

So far so good, definately think the newest revision is the best looking one so far, keep it up mate!

 

[cavx]

So far so good, definately think the newest revision is the best looking one so far, keep it up mate!

Thanks Taff83 Just wait 'till you see the new cuff I designed today for these puppies It is tripping me out, how cool it is looking and yes, it will have the pouch :love as well as having the hidden seams.

 

[cavx]

One of the hardest things about assembling these shoes is keeping everything even, especially the height. If you refer to my top image, I mention about chopping the top of the liner to sew the cuff. The challenge then is, because this is a scratch build and I am making the patterns as I go, I don't actually have any idea how tall the shoe is to make a custom cuff if I do chop, so after some playing around, I worked it out and happy to share here.

Basically I folded the collar on the points where the cuff will sit. This means that I not only have the line to sew to, but because both left and right shoes (other shoe line is sewn up now) are made by reversing the same patterns, they will be the same height.

Again, because of the complex nature of unfolding a complex 3D shape into a flat 2D shape, the cuff is looking somewhat unconventional, but very cool at the same time. I will post an image of this soon.

 

[cavx]

Sorry for the multiple posts, I am just a little excited with my progress and feel the need to share

The new cuff

And the full set of patterns so far.

The cuff and a few other smaller parts need to be added to this, then I will probably start my official build thread once I have all the parts and have worked out how to assemble them.