Nightvision Goggles working replica from Jurassic Park

I had a look at the K117 - they seem to vary alot, I think I even ordered one of those generic ones. It seems the ones specific to those old Huntsman helmets have the beaded edges, where as the newer grey K117 seem flat. There might be some thickness changes too

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I found my translucent white nylon headgear on a 490P. As David mentioned, the "beading" on the top of the band (also the metal hardware) seems to be exclusive to the translucent version, not present on the opaque white or gray band. Although, the gray padded sweatband seems to be on some of the newer/different versions also.
 
Thanks for the insight guys, I've already managed to pick up two pristine Konicas and wrangle up the switches, hose and LEDs. I think the harness is going to be literally down to luck. I seem to be checking ebay ever couple hours! I've got one on order at the minute that appears to be almost correct, except for the colour. Planning on using that as a stop gap until I can track down an accurate one.

I absolutely love the approach you took with the printed parts David. The overlapping edges and screw points look like a very smart and solid design. Is there anything you would change if you were to do it again? The only thing I couldn't figure out from your video was how you mounted the lenses to it. I haven't had a chance to take my cameras apart yet (I did try but the screws are frozen and the heads are pretty soft) so I don't know much about the mounting solutions on the lenses themselves.
 
I absolutely love the approach you took with the printed parts David. The overlapping edges and screw points look like a very smart and solid design. Is there anything you would change if you were to do it again? The only thing I couldn't figure out from your video was how you mounted the lenses to it. I haven't had a chance to take my cameras apart yet (I did try but the screws are frozen and the heads are pretty soft) so I don't know much about the mounting solutions on the lenses themselves.

With the screws - you'll need a precision screwdriver that is snug. If you find the screws dont come out spray them with WD40 and leave overnight to do their magic. Then next day they should wind out okay. I did the same thing as you and then had to buy a better set of screwdrivers.

So the mounting can be done multiple ways but I tried to engineer as much a modular way as possible. I actually ended going through several types of clothing snap fasteners, like you'd find on the hem of a duvet for example. You want fairly hard-wearing ones that keep their grip. I had four of these round the back of the lens to fasten the body of the print. My 3D print was a little deeper than I needed by half a centimetre or so, so I actually used a dense foam as a backing to the snaps. Way I saw it, they would act as little shock absorbers too (as I was concerned the vibration from the lens might go through the body and make a strange noise or feeling). If you're super confident you are done you could hot melt glue gun the whole lens assembly in there, but I had far too many tweaks to do.

As for things I'd change about the print - it came out okay. I had to open up some of the screw holes a bit more and sand back where the tubing meets the eye front piece, but all in all the shapeway print was so accurate I had nothing to worry about. It all fit straight out of the box. I think my sanding improved as time went on, but that wasn't anything to do with the print. I might have been a bit severe on sanding the front piece, but it gives it more of a vac-formed look so I'm ok with that.

I did spend months making the 3D printed section - that took the longest planning and checking. I definitely used the measure twice print once approach. And I sent for test prints to get an idea of the finish, fit and scale in hand. I just printed a half section of the front portion. Test prints for fitting are always a good idea if they aren't too costly.

I will eventually release them for free for hobbyists, just don't want to release them while there's a licensed product on the horizon. The whole world has a right to these goggles as Hammond would say.
 
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David,

For your MK2 set are you planning on getting more pieces printed? Or are you going to mold and cast your pieces?


I'm anxious to see what Chronicle does. Last I heard they had ordered an AiBorg camera and were going to scan the lenses separately for accuracy. I hope they make it easy to retrofit the working lenses.
 
David,

For your MK2 set are you planning on getting more pieces printed? Or are you going to mold and cast your pieces?


I'm anxious to see what Chronicle does. Last I heard they had ordered an AiBorg camera and were going to scan the lenses separately for accuracy. I hope they make it easy to retrofit the working lenses.
I think Im going to invest in my own 3D printer so I'll likely use that for mk2. I will be interested to see Chronicles' too, will wait for that now. I saw they recently obtained the same camera, good for them.

I hope they make a fully working pair!

Im just keen to get an accurate pair so we can see whats what.

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Hi David, small world and thanks for the credit on the video :) Personally I wouldn't have released so much info publicly and kept it to us on the forums. The reason the prices have gone up on the lenses is scalpers bought them up and are reselling them or the sellers saw the YT video and thought they were on to a good thing. That said I'm only waiting on the switches and ratchet harness now and mine will be done :)

Some WIP pics here https://m.facebook.com/paulelderMKII/albums/1748022351985773/

Paul
 
Hi David, small world and thanks for the credit on the video :) Personally I wouldn't have released so much info publicly and kept it to us on the forums. The reason the prices have gone up on the lenses is scalpers bought them up and are reselling them or the sellers saw the YT video and thought they were on to a good thing. That said I'm only waiting on the switches and ratchet harness now and mine will be done :)

Some WIP pics here https://m.facebook.com/paulelderMKII/albums/1748022351985773/

Paul

It's a double edged sword for prop builders. On one hand you want to be a good guy and share the information with our fellow builders who a struggling. The flip side is exactly what you said. It's a slippery slope. I remember when the grenade was discovered for the Obi saber. We were all convinced that it was a motorcycle handle. Then this guy comes on and shows pictures of the grenade and it was off to the races! Before that day you could pick these up for 25-40 bucks. Within five minutes after the announcement they were going for 200.00! Now they go for well more than that. The sad part? The guy who made the discovery never got a chance to get one! He was so excited to share the news that he forgot to buy a couple before he announced it.
And don't get me started on the announcement of the found parts for the macro binoculars! Hooo boy! Friendships were lost over THAT one!

I absolutely detest it when people hoard information and refuse to share it with the rest of the community. But as history has shown, I also understand why they don't.
 
Funnily enough Chronicle acquired the konica lens and publicised the fact weeks after I released my info. They had access to the original prop but I dont believe they'd IDed the lenses and the C&K switches up until that point - why bother as long as it looks the same right? If you have 3D scans you can just match the shape in the rapid prototype.

But after releasing the specs I noticed their licensed run upped in quality and the bar was high. So I take pride that whether they acknowledge it or not, I helped a lot of Jurassic fans get a more accurate replica. Thats what its all about, allowing more fans to take part. We'll always find ways to replicate, whether we have the original parts or not. And who am I to withhold that? Once I had my replica, I had to share. I wasn't making runs or profitting from it, it was for the love of the thing.

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Got my cameras in! Can’t wait to get started. By any chance has anyone seen a spare translucent headband around? It’s been quite a hunt looking for it so far...


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Hey David this is outstanding work I’m blown away by the amount of research and time that’s gone into this prop! Well done sir!
Sorry I’m coming to this post late but I was wondering as if there was any chance you be making your 3D files available for download?
 
Hello! When I saw this thread I lost it, after all these years we now know what camera they used!! Thank you David!
(QUICK NOTE) I am not trying to take over Davids thread at all.

So I started collecting pieces too and went a bit overboard. I also finally found the right harness after getting two 930P helmets.
One thing to look out for, for those trying to find this harness is the Screws on the side of the helmet. Now most of them are either rusted, Black, Red and or Sometimes Pink Plastic. But if you see a white harness with flat head screws on the side where the harness connects to the helmet, thats your first clue to your on to something.

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I know i am lucky to have found the right harness and I know their Super Rare, so I started remaking it, based off of the regular "newer" white bands that come with the black plastic adjusters. I took apart one of the first two welding helmets I got to begin seeing how it worked and for reference also tracing it. Then going back to my screen accurate one and based on photos of others harness and mainly a TON of screen shots of Davids Goggle Video (SO GRATEFUL AND THANKFUL FOR THE WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE IN IT) lined up where the Tubing on the original harness would be. Traced it up in Illustrator and got it laser cut as a test piece. The cardboard mock up works, in theory and from trying it on. Seeing that Chronicle Plans on remaking the harness all together I suppose I will put this part of my project away for the time being.
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When I took my first AIBorg apart. I accidentally took ALL OF IT apart, including the motor, I learned to keep that part intact. But i still have all the parts to it. Which made me think of this, I know space is really limited in the goggles housing (The Watermelon Visor) and the motor itself is one way as in they all come made this way and engineered this way. But I bet it would be possible to Flip the brass Motor housing to be the opposite direction? It would free up some space possibly I don't really know if it would fit. But it would be more practical as if it were a real manufactured product for the park. (last Photo Credit to David for base photo)
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Just thought Id throw that out there. Thank you again for the Info! Build on my Friends!
 

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